Saws / Bars for climbing

[OddInTheForrest]

Hello all.

So - I'll try to be quick.

I see a need for maybe switching things out when out climbing. 

I climb with a MS193T, and yes, it could be swapped for a 201T, but I dont really think I need it. The 193 is slow enough to be safe, at least when I send my partner up, who hasnt climbed a lot. 

Normally sets it up with a 12" 00.43 bar/chain for my guy, but I tend to do a 14" 00.43" B/C.

However, last job we did, I had to send my guy the MS261 or the Hq576.

261 had a 00.58 13" setup and the 576 had a 24 00.58 setup.

The question I guess is, should I go for a larger bar on the 261 as it is a easy to handle chassi when climbing, or opt for a different saw to bridgd the gap between the 261 and 576? 

Or maybe a ligth and fast option between the 193 and 261?

Really just looking for what other people do, always nice to hear what others do.

Best regards
Odd

[lxskllr]

My main saws are a 2511T(12") and a 355T(16"). I've gone as big as a 362cm(25"). I've also taken other rearhandles up as availability dictates. It's all about bulk and weight while climbing, and I'll push a smaller saw further in-tree than I would on the ground to save weight. If it were me, I'd get a 20" bar for the 261. 13" is too small imo, cause you're carrying a weightier powerhead that isn't maximizing it's potential.

[OddInTheForrest]

My main saws are a 2511T(12") and a 355T(16"). I've gone as big as a 362cm(25"). I've also taken other rearhandles up as availability dictates. It's all about bulk and weight while climbing, and I'll push a smaller saw further in-tree than I would on the ground to save weight. If it were me, I'd get a 20" bar for the 261. 13" is too small imo, cause you're carrying a weightier powerhead that isn't maximizing it's potential.

The idea has struck me. Normally run it with 13" setup for TSI work and house-plot jobs, and 16" L04 setup apart from that. 
I have owned probably 25 different stihlsaws, and by all means, I tend to always find a reason to get a new saw, but this time im in a bind. Do I scale up, or just get a different setup for what I have? 
The idea og porting the 261 has also struck me, but I also like it stock and just as a workhorse.

But maybe a 20" 00.50 setup would suit the 261?

[lxskllr]

My echo cs490(50cc) came with a 20" bar and I find it acceptable. I used it in-tree once, but the bar wasn't buried or anything. I needed something bigger than my 2511, and it was what I had available. It works well enough on the ground. Had I bought it new, I'd have probably gone with an 18" bar, but the 20" doesn't bother me enough to swap it out.

edit:
When I say I'd have gotten an 18" if given a choice, that's because it suits my purpose for that saw, which is my good and "big" saw I keep at work. A 16" bar would give maximum performance without wasting potential, while the 20" bar is pushing it's capabilities. The 18" is a compromise between them. Your 261 would be similar, and I'd expect it to outperform my 490 by some amount, so the 20" bar would be even better on your saw, though still a push for capability.

[OddInTheForrest]

My echo cs490(50cc) came with a 20" bar and I find it acceptable. I used it in-tree once, but the bar wasn't buried or anything. I needed something bigger than my 2511, and it was what I had available. It works well enough on the ground. Had I bought it new, I'd have probably gone with an 18" bar, but the 20" doesn't bother me enough to swap it out.

Sounds good. Migth have to try it. 
Have always felt like a 20" bar always needs a 60cc or more saw, but migth have to give this a serious thougth.

[lxskllr]

20" is better suited to a 60cc saw, but it works on a 50cc. It's all about weight, right? Otherwise, it's just buy an 881, and swap bars as necessary. It's the climbing saw, limbing saw, and milling saw  :^D  You just need a little more patience when pushing a small saw harder. Let it work at it's pace. Better taking a little longer in the cut than climbing with a boat anchor imo, but you need what you need. A 395 isn't ridiculous in the right tree, but I haven't done one of those trees yet.

[OddInTheForrest]

20" is better suited to a 60cc saw, but it works on a 50cc. It's all about weight, right? Otherwise, it's just buy an 881, and swap bars as necessary. It's the climbing saw, limbing saw, and milling saw  :^D  You just need a little more patience when pushing a small saw harder. Let it work at it's pace. Better taking a little longer in the cut than climbing with a boat anchor imo, but you need what you need. A 395 isn't ridiculous in the right tree, but I haven't done one of those trees yet.

Totally see your point. I try to avoid climbing with a 2hand saw just out of principle, but it happends a bit to often now. 
I agree on tthe 395 point, I had a few of those with my old 660 and a 36" B/C combo. The next job I did from a cherrypicker, just to avoid the anchor.
A 20" B/C migth just be the solution here.

[slider]

I traded a tree job for a new 881 ,36 in bar .The thing is so heavy .I bought a new 500i with a 36 in bar that is 12 lbs lighter ,love that saw.If i ever need a 4 ft bar i have a power head with 10 tanks of fuel thru it.