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Stihl MS361 carb problem?

Started by beenthere, December 01, 2005, 10:20:29 PM

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beenthere

I had my Stihl MS 361 in today for a checkup, as I have not been happy with its starting habits.  He asked "how many pulls for a cold start"?, and I said 6-7.  He asked how the warm start worked.  I said "Have to set it on half choke, pull at least twice and sometimes three times".  He asked " does it idle ok"? "Yes".  Then he said Stihl recommends a new carb kit, and if that doesn't work, a new carb. 
Anyone any experience with this 'problem'?  I am used to my old 041 that starts on the first pull, idle, no choke when within 15-20 minutes of previous shut down (depending on temperature, I'm sure).  But certainly a lot faster to get a saw running than this MS361, but sounds like their is a known carb problem, and maybe its thanks again to CA on the left coast.
Anyone have info relating to this?
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

Rocky_J

Stihl has been typically setting their carbs too lean and/or jetting them too small for the last several years. They do this in order to meet the EPA regulations, even though it hurts the saw performance and reduces engine life (less fuel = less lubrication = more engine wear). My pitiful experience with Stihl's attempt at selling a non-adjustable carb on a so-called Professional saw about 3-4 years ago finally turned me off to Stihl for the most part. Other brands are just as bad but easier to fix.

If your dealer is pulling his responses out of a Stihl manual, you may or may not have a good running saw. It all depends on if the mechanic is willing to set the carb for power instead of for emissions. This is the main reason I no longer own any stock saws, all mine have been worked over and adjusted for power output and performance. Too much government interference when strictly dealing with the manufacturers and their authorized dealers. I really don't know how to advise those of you still running stock saws.  :-\

SawTroll

Beenthere, I suggest that before you do anything else, you try to put the selector into "halv choke" (fast idle, really) after 3 pulls when cold, even if it doesn't pop.

I also suggest that when the saw is warm, you just put it in the "on" position - not in fast idle.

This works great on my MS361W, and on my Husky 353G.
Information collector.

beenthere

Quote from: SawTroll on December 02, 2005, 02:50:37 AM
I also suggest that when the saw is warm, you just put it in the "on" position - not in fast idle.

This I have tried, and what I would expect or like to happen, but it doesn't start just in the "on" position. I prefer the saw to fire on idle on one pull when it is warm. Much handier than leaving the saw idle between cuts when cutting up small wood in the tops and having to move material around between cuts.

I will try the suggestion for the cold start that you suggest. Sounds like it might save a few extra pulls if it works that way. Thanks.

Rocky_J
Maybe the dealer will be able to set the carb 'less lean' while he is 'at it'.  :)
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

sawguy21

I wonder if the saw has an intake air leak. Does the dealer pressure test before ripping it down and throwing carb kits and carbs at it?
old age and treachery will always overcome youth and enthusiasm

beenthere

Thanks sawguy21, I will ask that. 
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

dozerdan

beenthere
Stihl did have a major hard starting problem with some the first 361s that they built.
Is your saw a new one? If not, did it start hard from new?
If your dealer cant correct the problem with adjustments or a carb kit, have his contact his factory Rep. Stihl knows about the problem but they may not admit to it. I know of a few 361s here in the East Coast that they replaced with new ones.
Later
Dan
Danny Henry
Central Pa.
Home of the Original Power Ported Saws
570 658 6232
dozerdan@sunlink.net or
dozerdan@nmax.net

beenthere

dozerdan
Not sure if mine was in the 'first ones' built, but the dealer seemed to know the procedure to follow, as if he was well aware of the problem.  He said something about "they want us to try the kit first, and then change the carb if the kit doesn't work".
Thanks
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

Ga_Boy

I had problems with my 361, after many trips back I finally said enough and told them to either fix it this time or replace it.

They replcaed the coil and now it runs, not as good as my 028 or 460 but better than it did.




Mark
10 Acers in the Blue Ridge Mountains

beenthere

Ga_Boy
What were the symptoms of your problems?  Mine runs great and idles great (once running).

It helped how the engine ran when I switched to premium gas mix, and now won't get any more with ethanol in it. 

I'm using the old 041 now, and except for the lack of safety brake, I like it.  I'm thinking of getting a Simpson capstan rope winch and put on the old 041. I get those occasional times when a tree is hung, or something needs to be moved, and this seems like a good 'tool' to have around.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

Ga_Boy

The DanG thing was hard to start, 10 plus pulls, then it got to where it would not start no matter how long I pulled it.

The bad coil is a documented problem with the 361's.

My dealer is also my tractor dealer, I buy all my equipment from them.  I had to corner the owner and express my true feelings to get them to call Sthil, then they told me they would get the parts covered under warrenty and lobor was no cost. 


Mark
10 Acers in the Blue Ridge Mountains

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