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spot herbicide

Started by 421Altered, December 13, 2022, 11:44:20 AM

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421Altered

I'm clearing some land that I own that is grown up with trash saplings and brier's and weeds.  I want to spray a spot herbicide where I want to plant pine trees, planting them by hand.  I want a herbicide that will give a year or two of growth to the pine tree before the natural sapplings try to reestablish themselves. What herbicide is best/cheapest for this application?  Also, any help or info on doing this will be most appreciated.  The land is in South Georgia if that will be a help.

sawguy21

In another lifetime I worked for a helicopter operator that did that kind of work in clear cuts. The land would be cleared of stumps and debris then replanted with conifers. The deciduous growth of coarse came back very quickly so our crews would spray the block with Roundup early in the morning when there was no wind drift and the cones were closed up. I don't know if a similar operation would be practical from the ground in your application.
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Old saw fixer

This summer my neighbor had his pines sprayed with herbicide to suppress the deciduous trees that had grown up.  I didn't ask which herbicide or combination thereof was used.  He asked if I wanted an unsprayed buffer strip beside the driveway which is my right of way.  I told him to slay it all so I have less to trim!
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Treeflea24

I dont think that you will find a herbicide that is going to give you a year or two's worth of effect from a single application - that isnt also going to destroy your pines. Maybe some plutonium isotope or other nuclear waste byproduct with the right half-life... :)

Ive bought 3'x3' Vispore weed mats, and made my own out of rolls of 4' woven landscape fabric and installed them on a couple hundred trees. They seem to be doing an OK job of suppressing the weeds 2 years later. Might be worth considering in your case if you want to avoid the periodic spraying.
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Tom King

I thought that's what Arsenal is for.  For Sweetgums, if it doesn't kill them the first year, they may come back with very small leaves the next, and another application usually finishes them off.

customsawyer

You are a little late for any chemical application this year. It is best done while there is still leaves on to take in the chemical. If you do find one that will work it will need to be soil active and will effect any pine seedlings that you plant this year. If you make plans for next year you can do a broadcast spray with Chopper and Roundup or if you have waxy leave plants, green briars, or black berries you can replace the roundup with Garlon 4a. For site prep it is usually 48 oz of Chopper and 1 quart of the other per acre. Check with the local forestry comm. and they should have a list of folks that will do the application. You can also contact Helena chemical co. and they will send someone out to write a prescription for your site. Once it is controlled then do your planting next year.
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421Altered

Thanks to all that replied and especially to custom sawyer, that's exactly the info I am looking for!  Thanks again!

Tom King

It's probably not too late down there to put Tordon RTU (ready to use) on cut stumps.  It's not a method for a large area, but may be worth it for some particular things.  I'm trying it on Wisteria here now.  

It comes in a squeeze bottle, and has blue dye in it so you can see exactly where you put it.

I've never been able to kill Sweetgum with Roundup, but have killed it completely with Arsenal.

customsawyer

Tordon is a restricted use pesticide. You need to have a Applicators license to buy it down here. Be very careful with it as it is extremely soil active and can leach off site in heavy rains and such. It's a great product but you really need to know what all it can do and how far it can move.  
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chet

Keep in mind that spot treating with Tordon (Picloram) can kill off target trees that share a common root system such as Aspens, Poplars, and Cottonwoods. This will also occur to trees that are nown to root graft.
I am a true TREE HUGGER, if I didnt I would fall out!  chet the RETIRED arborist

Tom King

I started with putting one drop on Wisteria that is winding around 200 year old Boxwoods. The Wisteria is all still fairly small, but it climbs and grows like crazy in one season from a cut base stem.

One drop didn't do anything three years ago, 2 drops didn't do anything last year, and am trying three drops this Fall.  No effect on the Wisteria or Boxwoods yet, but won't see until next season anyway.  We certainly don't want to kill the Boxwoods, but the Wisteria will eventually do it probably when we are gone if I don't kill it.

The blue dye lets you see exactly how much you put on something.  It's certainly not to be sprayed.

BrandonTN

Imazapyr (brand name Arsenal, i think..)is very soil active, and can kill adjacent desrieable trees. However, It kills most hardwoods well. Use hack n squirt method with this, but with a very light touch (only 2 hacks per tree). Use water based mix for hack n squirt.

Triclopyr (Garlon or Relegate) is not soil active, but doesnt kill maple as well. Hack n squirt requires 4 hacks.

If you cut and treat stump, use water based mix. If you want to cut and then just spray the stump sprouts a year later, use an oil based mix and spray the sprouted stems in leaf off. This is called basal spray, or streamline. Triclopyr is more forgiving than imazapyr, i dont recommend doing any kind of spraying with arsenal(imazapyr). Only use it for targeted hack n squirt....light touch, assasin style. ;) ( you want to minimize its movement in soil and root systems into your planted pine.
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Seachaser

I had mine done with a helicopter but it has to be done in late summer, early fall before planting in the winter.  From personal experience, Roundup, 2-4-D, and the usual suspects don't do squat. You need the good stuff.  

beenthere

Seachaser
What is "the good stuff" ??  And where are you located? 

Could use your location in your profile, thanks. Just click on your user name, and there you can click the button to add your location. Very helpful to understanding your posts. 
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customsawyer

Seachaser that used to be correct. When they came out with Chopper, which is arsenal with some extra boost, it allows them to start spraying earlier in the summer and go later in the fall. I don't know what all is in that stuff but it was a game changer when it came out. It more than doubled the length of the spraying season.
Two LT70s, Nyle L200 kiln, 4 head Pinheiro planer, 30" double surface Cantek planer, Lucas dedicated slabber, Slabmizer, and enough rolling stock and chainsaws to keep it all running.
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Walnut Beast

Remedy ultra and Grazon Next HL with a good surfactant is how we are rolling. Trees of all sorts are a never ending battle

 

 

Walnut Beast

I was give a big jug of Arsenal. And understand it kills grass so I'm assuming it's going to act like Roundup and kill everything is that right? 

Walnut Beast

Was picking some Remedy Ultra up at the elevator and the chemical expert was in his office and give me the low down on the Arsenal. For anybody else's information if you don't want anything growing where you spray it for a couple years that's the stuff you want.  When it's sprayed on it's best to let it drip on the ground also. Phragmites Is what it's designed to spray. 


customsawyer

Quote from: Walnut Beast on June 22, 2023, 04:59:32 PM
I was give a big jug of Arsenal. And understand it kills grass so I'm assuming it's going to act like Roundup and kill everything is that right?


One of the biggest differences between the two is that Arsenal is soil active and Roundup stops moving when it hits the ground. Basically you can use Roundup to control weeds or grass under a orchard but if you try that with Arsenal you will get to start a new orchard. 
Two LT70s, Nyle L200 kiln, 4 head Pinheiro planer, 30" double surface Cantek planer, Lucas dedicated slabber, Slabmizer, and enough rolling stock and chainsaws to keep it all running.
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