What type of BENT would work here?

[ShimodaLife]

When I have two timbers joining a center post there usually isn't enough relish in the tenon from the peg holes.
That is, the distance from the end of the tenon to the peg hole. Because of this I usually use a spline joint/timber. This 2by timber is long enough to go through the post and into each timber. And each timber is sitting on a shelf edge on the post.

Jim,  this is an excellent suggestion. Splines are really common in Japanese post-and-beam as well, so I think it'll be something my architect will get behind. I've never designed or built a spline before, so time to get started. Thanks.

[ShimodaLife]

I made some progress last night. Needed to send the files to architect so he can continue considering how to turn this into a passable plan. But here's what I've landed on for roof structure. I'm going to use incorrect terminology, I'm sure, but... I've created a King post-slash-ridge beam sitting atop a couple queen posts. The entire mini-structure sits atop the two middle bents. There's no snow load to consider where I live, so I've used 8" beams and posts all round, with 4x6 rafters; the architect will tell me if these are sufficient.



 


 

Next, I want to address Don's question about interior design... 8)

[ShimodaLife]

Following up on the question about living space within this TF, here are some architect's drawings of the main floor and the upper floor. Excuse the metric measurements; we're in Japan. Also, this design is done with Japanese dimensions and "stud" placement; my architect intends to start with this design, then he will take my TF drawings and convert this floor plan to the TF dimensions prior to submitting for approvals.

In the main floor layout, I like the entrance. The adjoining Work Space is not much bigger than a closet, but is designed to be a work station. The living room has a wood stove, and large patio windows (lower right) which look out onto a wood deck (the actual one will be larger than the drawing) and the ocean. A short set of steps take you up 3' to the second level.



 

The upper floor, also the back of the house, has the bath, dining and kitchen, as well as stairs up to the master. My only real concern on this floor is the 6' high back wall, which is a concrete wall about 12" thick, acting as a retaining wall to the mountain above and behind. I'm worried about the cold and damp that will come through that concrete, and how much insulation and framing I need to have there to make the house comfortable. The thickness of the framing will also encroach on the already small nature of this living space. Above the concrete wall is about 2-3' of framing, which will also contain windows for light/air flow.



 

Finally, the master sits above the entrance, accessed by another short staircase in front of the dining area. All very "cozy," I understand. Not enough storage or closet space in this design...



 

I think one of my concerns, related to this new roof design, is all the empty space above. I mean, I love cathedral ceilings, and I'm going to love looking up and seeing all that interlocking timber, but there's a lot of open, dare I say, wasted, space.

Appreciate any thoughts or comments.
JT

[Ljohnsaw]

Re: wasted space-
What about mirroring the master and loft o the other side?

Re: concrete wall/insulation-
I would take advantage of that massive thermal storage.  Place ridged foam on the outside before you back fill.  Heat generated by your wood stove will be absorbed by the mass and re-radiated out through the night.  It will help keep a more constant temperature.

[ShimodaLife]

Re: wasted space-
What about mirroring the master and loft o the other side?

Re: concrete wall/insulation-
I would take advantage of that massive thermal storage.  Place ridged foam on the outside before you back fill.  Heat generated by your wood stove will be absorbed by the mass and re-radiated out through the night.  It will help keep a more constant temperature.

Both good suggestions, Ljohnsaw. I wonder if there's a way to connect the back concrete wall to the wood stove, some kind of rocket stove setup...? I don't think the architect would go for it though...

[Ljohnsaw]

Both good suggestions, Ljohnsaw. I wonder if there's a way to connect the back concrete wall to the wood stove, some kind of rocket stove setup...? I don't think the architect would go for it though...

I was actually going to suggest a rocket stove...  How about a water jacket and plumbing in the wall?  If you are talking about the higher up one, then no need for a pump.  The water will circulate naturally.  Probably would want to go with PEX in the concrete.  Top of stove to top of wall.  As it cools in the wall it gets heavier, then falls back to the bottom of the stove where heat makes it rise again.

[ShimodaLife]

How about a water jacket and plumbing in the wall?  If you are talking about the higher up one, then no need for a pump.  The water will circulate naturally.  Probably would want to go with PEX in the concrete.  Top of stove to top of wall.  As it cools in the wall it gets heavier, then falls back to the bottom of the stove where heat makes it rise again.

John, I wonder if you have any links to more information on this "water jacket" and PEX in a vertical concrete space? I get PEX and the idea of hose in the wall, but I don't get how to make it all work. All I can find when searching "water jacket" is a coupling thingy.
Thanks,
JT

[Ljohnsaw]

No links, just thoughts.  Read up about thermal siphon and passive solar hot water heaters.  You wouldn't want to get the water steaming hot, you'd have to worry about expansion and steam flash and all that.  I'd take some soft copper tube (the bigger the better for flow) and make a flat panel as wide as the back of your stove (assuming the back gets hot) or mounted on the wall above the back of the stove where the most heat is sitting.  Horizontal runs, switching back as you go up.  Could do with hard copper and solder as well.  I made such a thing for solar hot water on my bath house when my propane tankless broke. 

Don't attach it to the stove (would get too hot), just have it as a heat shield like affair.  When filled with water, the heated water would want to rise as it is less dense.  With your plumbing, you would allow it to go up to the top of your wall.  When the water is cooled by the wall (absorbing the heat), it will get denser and want to fall (back to the wood stove).  I would layout the PEX in a long run horizontally starting at the top of the wall and switching back and forth a few times, always going down hill.  Not much, just don't go uphill with it except for the initial run (insulated) from the wood stove.  Probably spaced at 6" apart?  Eazi-pizi.  No pump, no energy used, no maintenance, no noise.