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Framing plans for Jack Sobon's "Build a Classic Timber-Framed House"

Started by Lindrith, January 21, 2007, 09:20:30 PM

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Lindrith

I am new to timber-framing and am about to embark on acquisition of timbers to build my first frame. I am buying a ranch in New Mexico (the continental divide runs through it at 7,700 feet). The property has a small earth-bermed house and a nice 30x42 barn (Morton building with concrete floor). I plan to acquire Ponderosa pine and maybe Doug fir timbers from a local sawyer, along with some hardwood timbers, hopefully from a Missouri or Arkansas sawyer (I have another reason to go there) as Sobon's book specifies that the main posts and braces must be hardwood and there is none in New Mexico that I am aware of.

I am considering either building Sobon's hall & parlor house (possibly adding to it later) or another, even smaller design that I can add to later as I am already personally aware of the danger of biting off more than I can chew and there is a lot to be said for getting something done relatively quickly rather than getting bogged down on a large project and maybe never finishing it.

Does anyone know if actual plans and drawings, such as are available for other designs, have ever been published for Jack Sobon's hall & parlor house?

One final question: Does anyone know of a sawyer anywhere near Branson Missouri (SW Missouri or NW Arkansas) that could provide me with hardwood timbers? I assume they would be oak. Is oak generally suitable, especially if I took whatever measures I could to dry them before working them?
Jim in New Mexico

Raphael

QuoteDoes anyone know if actual plans and drawings, such as are available for other designs, have ever been published for Jack Sobon's hall & parlor house?
  I don't believe a set of plans has ever been published but cutting the frame directly from the book is just as easy (if not easier) than cutting it from plans.  If you need a set of plans for the inspector you may be able to get a copy from Jack as he's almost certainly in possesion of the originals.
  If you call him about plans you might also ask him about some of the materials more locally available to you.  There are softwoods that are strong enough to produce many parts of this frame, my gut* says Doug Fir will be one of them.  My version started out as Spruce with Oak knee braces before I started replacing bad pieces with local hardwoods.

*Note: My gut is not an engineer and has contributed to foot in mouth disease in the past.  ::)
... he was middle aged,
and the truth hit him like a man with no parachute.
--Godley & Creme

Stihl 066, MS 362 C-M & 24+ feet of Logosol M7 mill

Lindrith

Raphael, thanks much! I would guess that some experience timber framers read my question and rolled their eyes wondering why anybody would want plans for such a simple frame. But, for me, just starting out, it seemed like a good idea, but maybe I am placing too much trust in plans!
Jim in New Mexico

ohsoloco

Lindrith, I don't own the book you mention, but have looked through it before, and love that frame  :)  By all means, start on something small to get your feet wet.  I always wanted to build my own timberframe house, but so far have only built an 8'x8' grape arbor (still can't get the DanG grapes to grow there  :(  ), and a 6'x6' smoke house.  The smoke house is made of white oak, and after working with the tamarack (for the arbor and the sill of the smoke house) the white oak was an absolute joy to work with.  However, you will most certainly want to work those oak timbers while they're still green  ;)

Norwiscutter

If you need them drawn up, the moderator here, Jim, could help you out. I have scene some of his stuff and they are spot on.
Si vis pacem, para bellum.

Lindrith

Thanks much to Norwiscutter and Ohsoloco for some great advice!
Jim in New Mexico

Raphael

Quote from: Lindrith on January 22, 2007, 07:00:18 PM
Raphael, thanks much! I would guess that some experience timber framers read my question and rolled their eyes wondering why anybody would want plans for such a simple frame. But, for me, just starting out, it seemed like a good idea, but maybe I am placing too much trust in plans!
  Nothing wrong with plans, but if you're going with Jack's classic hall and parlor you'll find the book more useful for the actual cutting of the frame.  Once you get the frame raised good plans will become invaluable.
  The thing Jack's books will give you that plans won't is how to layout and the order of cuts to produce a given joint.  The plans are there in the book just on a fairly small scale, when I started designing my additions I drew them up larger scale to work from.  I found the process of redrawing the plans myself very helpful for learning my way around the frame.  If your computer will handle it you might try playing with the free sketchup software many folks here are using, I've got a collection of dinosaurs so it's usually 11"x17" or 17"x22" graph paper for me.
... he was middle aged,
and the truth hit him like a man with no parachute.
--Godley & Creme

Stihl 066, MS 362 C-M & 24+ feet of Logosol M7 mill

Lindrith

Raphael, I went back and reviewed the book last night and now I agree with you. I think my initial reading of it (I must confess that I only skimmed the parts that related to cutting the actual joints because I figured I would wait and read about them in more detail when I was going to start cutting them) didn't allow me to connect the dots between the discussion of the design of the house & frame early in the book and the later chapters which detail cutting each of the joints needed in the frame.

It seems to really be a terrific book. My reaction to the house was lukewarm when I first started the book but I've really fallen in love with it now. I believe I would like to acquire sufficient timbers to allow me to put the gambrel roof on it as he pictures at the back of the book in discussing options. I plan to cut the joints over the next year with a raising next year (2008) and if the project is getting away from me in terms of its size, I figured I could (a) leave out the gambrel roofed third floor room to cut back and then if things are still out of hand, (b) cut out one of the bays if necessary with the intention of adding on to the house later. I'd hate to do either of these, but I also know the value of getting a smaller project done rather than having a larger one sit undone forever.

Your idea about having design plans could really help me, too, as I am planning to subcontract some of work needed when once the frame is up. I appreciate your thoughts and will look into the software you're talking about. I suppose I might be able to do the work on my computer but take the files to Kinkos or some place to get them printed out large.
Jim in New Mexico

dnalley

I,too have dreams of a small scale timber frame house  but after reading about Sobon's requiring  hardwood posts and braces, does this mean I can't go with Georgia yellow pine?  I've been reading and studying up on this subject but I guess I haven't studied enough.  What think ye?  Thanks, Dwight

Jim_Rogers

Quote from: Lindrith on January 21, 2007, 09:20:30 PM

Does anyone know if actual plans and drawings, such as are available for other designs, have ever been published for Jack Sobon's hall & parlor house?

I am currently drawing this house, with my CAD program, to produce drawing for creating a scale model for a teaching presentation.

I would agree with Raphael that Doug fir could possibly be substituted for the oak corner posts.

dnalley, it is also possible to substitute southern yellow pine for the corner posts if the strength values are near that of oak. I haven't looked it up, but I'm sure they are close.
I'm sure you could use southern yellow for the balance of the frame without any problem.

Good luck with your project,
and keep asking questions.

Jim Rogers


Whatever you do, have fun doing it!
Woodmizer 1994 LT30HDG24 with 6' Bed Extension

Don P

SYP and Dougfir both compare well with Northern Red oak in a #2. A vaguely recall him using better grades in the book somewhere, need to check.

Lindrith

Jim, that is really interesting that you are drwaing the house. Does your CAD program allow you to scale it from full size to reduced size and back up to full size?

I called Jack yesterday. He seems like a real prince. Unfortunately, he won't able to provide plans for the house. However, he told me about a new book by a fellow New Mexican - Robert Laporte, who lives just north of Santa Fe. He is a timber framer and also specializes in clay/straw building, especially in conjunction with a frame. His wife is an architect, I guess, so the two of them may be able to help me out in several areas. Anyway, their book is called "EcoNest, Creating Sustainable Sanctuaries of Clay, Straw, and Timber". Their website is http:www.econest.com/index.htm.
Jim in New Mexico

Jim_Rogers

Quote from: Lindrith on January 24, 2007, 09:39:17 AM
Jim, that is really interesting that you are drawing the house. Does your CAD program allow you to scale it from full size to reduced size and back up to full size?

For the teaching presentation, I'm drawing the frame bents and floor framing in the scale of 1" = 1'. To get these printed, I'm going to have to tape together two 18x24's to get 18x48" so that I can use the 36" long floor framing, for my presentation.

But these are just 2d drawings and they can be sent to the printer at any scale I want. Such as 1/4" = 1', which will allow it to be printed on paper say one sheet of 18"x24".

Jim Rogers
Whatever you do, have fun doing it!
Woodmizer 1994 LT30HDG24 with 6' Bed Extension

MD11

Hello All,
I've been considering the Sobon house since it was first published in the book. I finally have time to build this as all of the kids are grown and through college. 
My wood species of choice is tulip poplar as we have much of it in Eastern KY and adjacent areas. My challenge now is to find a sawyer/supplier. 
What is the best way to find a source of dimensional timbers in the wood species you want? 
Thanks in advance for all advice.

Don P

For boards and dimensional lumber I'm a big fan of tulip poplar. As a large timber it tends to check more than most folks want to see. It is the largest tree in the east and you don't see many log home companies or timber framers using it, in fact there are not published heavy timber design values for it.  I'd try to find something else.

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