Well the sawyer just left and I can now officially begin my build 8)
I was on a mission cutting trees this winter and, although my cut sheet was full I just couldn't stop. I ended up with one extra top plate, two extra posts, one extra anchor beam, and at five extra 5x7's which can be used for girts, joists, or principal rafters. Here is the plan for each of four bents. The interior is all ash... the posts supporting the lean to's will be be treated since they will be exposed to the weather.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/63674/Woodshed_II_gable_view.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1609987320)
Tomorrow I have to cover the lumber piles. It's a one-man operation and my back ain't what it used to be so I plan on rigging up a gin pole on my tractor so I can back up to a pile then use a chain fall to lift a timber off onto my timber cart. Then I will use a chain fall in the shop to lift the timber onto the saw horses for joinery.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/63674/Timber_pile_2.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1616981665)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/63674/timber_pile_3.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1616981685)
So I got my crane erected today! I believe its called a derrick crane in the US Army Rigging Manual that I downloaded. I just finished attaching the boom when it started raining so I didn't get to actually lift any timbers but I have no doubt it will pluck those bad boys off the pile like they were popsicle sticks. I was going to go with an A-frame type gin pole on the back of the tractor but she is not running to smooth and I was afraid it would tap-out when I needed it most so I found this. I'll be able to pick up timbers, transfer them to my cart to roll them indoors, then set them back on a "finished" pile parallel to this one.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/63674/Derrik_Crane.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1618099536)
The manual had tables for spruce poles but I had cedar available so that's what I used. As designed with spruce it should lift 2 tons... I'm just asking it to lift 600 lbs or so.
I still need to sharpen the slick, pick up a new handsaw and finish the beam drill but I should be doing joinery by the end of the week.
Maybe it will look like this in 100 years. :D
>(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/61033/IMG_20200412_113748369_HDR~1.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1613230317)
Seriously, nice looking shed design! Cool lifting pole also.
Quote from: TroyC on April 10, 2021, 08:28:59 PM
Nice looking shed design! Cool lifting pole also.
Thanks. I hope it's still standing in 100 years. My shed will have tractor parking in the center isle.
My wife was at work all day so she won't see that contraption until tomorrow. I doubt her assessment will be so kind :D :D :D. It kind of looks like someone is putting up a circus tent.
But yeah, I had a few buddies help lift it up then texted pictures to a few guy friends and every one wanted to come see it in action. I haven't cut a joint yet and I have at least ten guys including the sawyer, a couple folks at the day job, and my UPS driver who want to come for the barn raising.... must be a guy thing!
Good luck!! It's fun to build!!
Can't tell from the picture but my roof wraps all the way around the back so three sides are covered. The right side supports for the cover are scheduled to be replaced since they are mostly rotted off at ground level.
Nice looking pile of timbers! Keep us posted.
Quote from: everythingwood on April 10, 2021, 08:10:49 PM
So I got my crane erected today! I believe its called a derrick crane in the US Army Rigging Manual that I downloaded. I just finished attaching the boom when it started raining so I didn't get to actually lift any timbers but I have no doubt it will pluck those bad boys off the pile like they were popsicle sticks. I was going to go with an A-frame type gin pole on the back of the tractor but she is not running to smooth and I was afraid it would tap-out when I needed it most so I found this. I'll be able to pick up timbers, transfer them to my cart to roll them indoors, then set them back on a "finished" pile parallel to this one.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/63674/Derrik_Crane.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1618099536)
The manual had tables for spruce poles but I had cedar available so that's what I used. As designed with spruce it should lift 2 tons... I'm just asking it to lift 600 lbs or so.
I still need to sharpen the slick, pick up a new handsaw and finish the beam drill but I should be doing joinery by the end of the week.
@everythingwood (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=53674),
That crane is awesome. Can you share a link to the rigging manual you downloaded? Not sure I could or would build it but I would really like to read how it's rigged. How is it working out for you?
The crane works great. I picked up two timbers at once yesterday so that's probably 1200-1500 lbs and it didn't seem to strain anything. I use the block & tackle for raising and lowering the boom and a chain hoist at the end of the boom to lift the timbers. I was looking at the manual again and it looks like my mast should support 1.5 tons, not two. Of course I don't stand under the boom or timbers when lifting.
My brother welded up a pivot point which is just a piece of 8" diameter pipe with a hinge and a "spear" to insert into a drilled hole in the boom. The old manual just shows a fork lashed to the boom. I'll try the link thingy... if it doesn't work just google Army Rigging Manual FM 5-125 You can purchase the manual from several sources but a few links to the pdf as well.
US Army Rigging Manual (https://manuals.directutor.com/HPE/Rigging-Handbook.fm5-125/index.html?page=1)
What sent me down this rabbit hole, besides the desire to save my back, was a picture of one set up inside a small off-grid log cabin build. The boom could reach over the wall to pick up logs them pivot around the whole structure to place them.
Well, I thought for sure I would get started on my frame last spring but life happened... spring turned to summer and summer turned to fall, which turned to winter again!
I FINALLY got started cutting joinery! 8). Last month I got all my tools together and re-ground the edges for hardwood and made space in the shop basement. Then I had to enclose the overhang of the workshop basement because some of the timbers are too long to fit in the building. With that done, I cut my first timber, a corner post, last week. As of tonight, I have completed three posts and two anchor beams. A few observations:
- Working in ash is freaking HARD! When I was cutting the workshop frame (aspen and red pine) I would hog off the waste from tenons by cutting with my circular saw then finishing to the line with a hand saw. I tried two different saws before I gave up. Turns out my Dewalt reciprocating saw with a 12" blade is going to see some miles!
- My home-made cordless beam drill works quite well if you limit it to 2" at a time. Any more than that and I'm constantly reversing it or it gets jammed. That puts a crimp in the workflow.
- The crane and cart allow me to move timbers around by myself without breaking my back... working smarter not harder!
- Only 23 timbers, 10 drop-in joists, 18 rafters, and 16 braces to go!
I'll post some pictures when I get logged in with my phone.
Chuck
Here is a picture of my workspace as I'm wheeling out an anchor beam. It's not an ideal space but it will
Do.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/63674/0E6E4C90-7E32-4B78-98AE-1CD2D612092E.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1645021404)
This is one of the mortises for the dovetailed wedged through tenon. Even with the drill and reciprocating saw one of these posts takes about 6 hours. At least one hour on layout alone for the dovetail mortise. And did I mention ash is hard 🥵
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/63674/4CB8E59F-A995-41D9-9510-558A686E650C.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1645022112)
Hi,
Remember to remove the bark from the waney sawn posts. Bark provides the entry point and habitat for pests become established and will eventually infect the timber hidden from view.
I always remove the bark first thing so I can evaluate the timber. And there is plenty of wane to be found. It makes layout very interesting.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/63674/F304EA5E-CCC4-468A-8B52-827E318E4427.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1645104975)
All this to lay out the angled housing for the dovetail tenon! I had to buy a third framing square! Of course almost every timber has gone diamond-shaped on me as it dries and some have significant checks. Definitely not like working with pine.
There are already lots of beetle tracks in the bark and cambium but not in the wood. I'm treating for PP beetles after working each timber.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/63674/17697117-A57F-46A3-AFE0-26AA3AB801F5.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1645208219)
Minor rant:
If you are going to sell a measuring device and you apply a sticker, how about using an adhesive that peels off easily🤬.
I had to soak these in a sink of hot soapy water for an hour then use goo-gone to get the residue off 🤬🤬🤬🤬
Try WD-40. Works most of the time for me.
But agree on the "easier removal" as sometimes the merchandise is marred or destroyed getting the label/sticker removed.
Tempted to return the item and ask for one that they have peeled off the label. ;D
Finally! The "barn raising" party is in two weeks but I couldn't just wait until then to see if everything fit so I assembled one bent and raised it myself.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/63674/C3387FB8-A206-43A0-BD1A-B950E2BF7648.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1664809103)
I am using half lapped dovetail braces because they simplify joinery. I had the dovetail tenons wedged and it was strapped together when raised. I realized after I had it up that I didn't drill and peg the joint as well.
I am hoping there is an update coming on this project. I started sawing beams for a very similar design and was hoping to learn from your experience.