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Drilling out emitter hole in bar

Started by rasawing, June 18, 2018, 08:25:58 PM

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rasawing

I was talking to a tree service guy I know the other day who was telling me that he always drills out the weep/emitter hole in his bar so that there is a bigger hole to get the oil in there. But I was thinking that it might create a issue as a larger hole might not develop the pressure to squirt the oil up. (Since the hole is facing up.) 

What do you guys think? Anyone ever tried it? 

Gearbox

Drill ? Those bars are hard . Most saws with any kind of power have a plenty big oil hole . Unless you are trying to pre oil the wood .
A bunch of chainsaws a BT6870 processer , TC 5 International track skidder and not near enough time

dougand3

I'd think the factory would make the hole big enough. Biggest issue is keeping the hole (and bar rail slot) open. Air compressor is your friend.
Husky: 372xt, 272xp, 61, 55 (x3)...Poulan: 315, 4218 (x3), 2375, 2150, 2055, 2000 (x3)...Stihl 011AVT...Homelite XL...Saws come in broken, get fixed or parted, find new homes

teakwood

yeah, definitively leave that hole alone. The factory sure knows it better than a end user, they do thousands of test to know whats best  
National Stihl Timbersports Champion Costa Rica 2018

hatman-nz

had a bar years ago oil hole was just  out  a bit. from oiler   line    dealer  opened it up with a grinder      
be. hard as hell to drill   

sawguy21

I can't see any benefit, oil output is limited by the saw. As mentioned, keep the hole and groove clear.
old age and treachery will always overcome youth and enthusiasm

hedgerow

Had friend give me some new bars when his dad passed away they were the right length and pitch but were for a different brand of saw so I mill the slot and redrilled the oil hole. I am  still using some of those bars today but that was the only reason I redrilled the hole. I agreed with the others a air compressor is your friend. We take air tanks to the timber and blow the saws off every time we fuel. 

rasawing


Al_Smith

I die grinder with a stone works well .I have a bunch of solid carbide drill bits that work fine too .If you are lucky you might drill out one hole with a regular drill bit before it goes dull or breaks .

sablatnic

I have redrilled quite some bars to be able to use them on my old Partners. 
I used ordinary HS drills, ground to angles more suited to the hard steel of the bars, and I cooled them with water with a few drops of dish wash. 
Had to resharpen the drills after each hole though, but it is possible if not very practical.

Maine372

Oregon bars come with tiny oil holes. easily blocked and hard to clean out. I drill them out to 3/16s and the deburr the edges with a round stone. bars oil better and I don't need a paper clip the clear the oil hole.

timbatrader

Quote from: teakwood on June 19, 2018, 08:49:16 AM
yeah, definitively leave that hole alone. The factory sure knows it better than a end user, they do thousands of test to know whats best  
That may have been the case in the past these days the saws are made to keep the regulators happy and the regulators want as little as possible oil in the environment and are less concerned about the longevity of the bar and chain   

DelawhereJoe

You can also sharpen a carbide masonry bit, or use a diamond dremel bit too.
WD-40, DUCT TAPE, 024, 026, 362c-m, 041, homelite xl, JD 2510

Al_Smith

I've got a number of solid carbide drill bits which are salvage from the automotive industry  ,meaning I got them out of the scrap tub at work .They will punch right through a chainsaw bar like a hot knife through butter .Nice but the average guy could get the same results from a Dremel with a stone .It just takes longer .
With regards to adapting chainsaw bars I've found the easiest to modify are Stihl mounts .Firstly they are plentiful plus most have a wider heel section .The slot is larger but that can be adapted with spacers .
There's tricks to it and some don't need modified .For example a Partner p-100 and a McCulloch SP 1000 are the same saws .If you use the McCulloch bar plates a McCulloch 10 series bar will work with no modifications .If you use the bar plates from a Husqvarna 2100 the Husqvana mount bars will work . 

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