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blade sharpening

Started by Kasba, October 16, 2015, 05:25:46 PM

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Magicman

Quote from: deadfall on October 18, 2015, 03:27:47 PM
It seems like all the cracks I have seen have been from the gullet.
I do not recall ever seeing a crack anywhere other than the gullet either.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

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Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

Kasba

I think one my problems was the rear blade guides were out of adjustment and the belts were worn. I changed the belts and adjusted, it seems to be fine. I thought I would have got more than 25 hours on the belts before changing. The new belt was slightly smaller than the one that was on, the salesman mentioned that since Woodmeizer bought out Timbery they were using a looser belt on the wheel. Thanks again for all your help and a special thanks to Cutting Edge for all his help and info.
Timbery M285 25hp, Husqvarna 570 auto tune, Alaskan sawmill, Nova 1624 wood lathe, Dogo Argentino

Solomon

Quote from: Magicman on October 16, 2015, 05:36:04 PM
Not a dumb question at all.  Reset the bent teeth, sharpen it up, and use it for special projects.  There will be skips and saw marks but that is "character" that you can not get from the store.  Enjoy.   :)
Magic Man is right.   Get all you can out of what you have.
My blades are 229 inches, if I damage one bad enough in less than 79 inches of the blade, I cut it to 150 inches, weld it back together and use it on my resaw in the shop.   If it's missing a few teeth, I set, sharpen and use it to mill soft woods like erc and cyprus which are indiginous here in my area.  For Devil wood (Peacan) Hickory, White Oak ect... , I generally use a new blade or one in good condition that's just been sharpened.
Time and Money,  If you have the one, you rarely have the other.

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