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Planning stage of new bandmill build

Started by rrleesb, December 18, 2017, 09:35:10 PM

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rrleesb

Hi all,

Almost retired Navy man here.  I am kinda  a jack of all trades, but I really enjoy building machines and fabrication.  I have a friend, that lives a few hours away, that has WM LT40 hydraulic.  I've cut quite a bit of wood with him as the guy that pulls the boards off and gets new logs ready.  It's something that I enjoy and could save me some bucks on projects.  I also enjoy timberframing and would like to do more of it.  Building a sawmill will help me accomplish some of those goals.

So, I'm in the planning stages of a sawmill build.  I think I'm going to build a Linn style mill.  I'm going to lay out some of what I'm thinking, feel free to give advise where necessary.  I also have a few questions so take a shot if you have some good info.

My plan is to make it mobile from the start.  The main beams 2x6 3/16 x 24'.  Put a 2x3 3/16 cross beam every 30".  On top of the cross beams put an adjustable 2x2 1/4" bunk similar to the WM decks. I plan to add hydraulics later so I thought the stiff deck was a necessity.  The Linn plan calls for a sharp dog vice just a stop for the cant stops, opinions?  For the carriage rollers are the v pulleys or the u pulleys more effective?

I have a 22hp Predator engine.  It has a 1" shaft.  What should I use for a clutch?  Twin Sheave?  The Linn site lists centrifugal clutch with a 2 sheave 4" but it's a 1 1/8" shaft.  Is there a bushing I can use? 

As far as hydraulics go.  An engine driven pump?  What type and displacement?  Flow?  With the 2 sheave clutch, will I need to run a jackshaft to get another sheave?  Electric over hydraulic?  I would still need a sheave to run an alternator wouldn't I?

Any reason to get wheels larger than the 19" ? What benefits are there to using the 21 or 26" wheels?  Sheaves or the Cooks wheels?

Thanks for all the input!
Ryan




Kbeitz

Buy on E-bay. They come with an oversize key.



 
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Crusarius

Sounds exactly like my build I am in the middle of. If you call Linn Lumber they can get you the 1" ID clutch. that is the route I went. It is the same cost either way.

here is the link to my build. It may help you with yours. Good luck and keep updates coming.

https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,97853.msg1511008.html#msg1511008

I have really enjoyed building mine. Now I just need to get back out there and do some more.

Crusarius

KBeitz, thanx for posting that. I did not know those existed.

Kbeitz

Quote from: Crusarius on December 19, 2017, 07:39:41 AM
KBeitz, thanx for posting that. I did not know those existed.

There is a better one that has the key in the bushing but they cost more.



 
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Southside

rrleesb -

Welcome to the forum and thank you for your service.  As far as hydraulics go, with only 22hp I would look at electric over hydraulic so you don't rob too much from your band energy.  You won't be using the hydraulics all the time so there is no sense in spending energy to pump fluid all the time.   
Franklin buncher and skidder
JD Processor
Woodmizer LT Super 70 and LT35 sawmill, KD250 kiln, BMS 250 sharpener and setter
Riehl Edger
Woodmaster 725 and 4000 planner and moulder
Enough cows to ensure there is no spare time.
White Oak Meadows

rrleesb

Quote from: Southside logger on December 19, 2017, 09:45:01 AM
rrleesb -

Welcome to the forum and thank you for your service.  As far as hydraulics go, with only 22hp I would look at electric over hydraulic so you don't rob too much from your band energy.  You won't be using the hydraulics all the time so there is no sense in spending energy to pump fluid all the time.   

If that's the case, is there a recommended powerpack or pump?  Estimated GPM to look for?  So i'd need to setup an alternator.... 60A?

Crossroads

When I put hydraulics on my old lt30, I used a 6.5 predator engine to run them with a 3-11 gpm 2 stage pump. It worked great at just over a high idle, but in hind sight, I could have used a smaller pump.
With the right fulcrum and enough leverage, you can move the world!

2017 LT40 wide, BMS250 and BMT250,036 stihl, 2001 Dodge 3500 5.9 Cummins, l8000 Ford dump truck, hr16 Terex excavator, Valley je 2x24 edger, Gehl ctl65 skid steer, JD350c dozer

Georgia088

Just curious. How many/far apart are you planning to put your jacks to support the bunk when you are sawing? 

rrleesb

Quote from: Georgia088 on December 19, 2017, 11:02:15 AM
Just curious. How many/far apart are you planning to put your jacks to support the bunk when you are sawing?

I was planning on putting 6 jacks in, 3 on each side.  2 close to the ends, 2 in the middle, and 2 at the other end.

starmac

Just a thought, but I would do some checking and see if an electric clutch is available that would work.
Old LT40HD, old log truck, old MM forklift, and several huskies.

pineywoods

Why do you need a clutch ? Just something else to break. Go look at you buddies lt40. Cheap, simple and proven. Hydraulics... do a forum search "home made hydraulics" everything but a log loader. 3-4 gpm pump should be adequate. I tried the dual stage log splitter pump also...don't...I've built 3 of these, I'm fixed, so I use a 3hp electric motor. I know of a couple that were built using a 5hp vertical shaft lawn mower engine to power the pump..
Bandwheel size... It's a big compromise. Build it to use a standard off-the shelf blade length.
1995 Wood Mizer LT 40, Liquid cooled kawasaki,homebuilt hydraulics. Homebuilt solar dry kiln.  Woodmaster 718 planner, Kubota M4700 with homemade forks and winch, stihl  028, 029, Ms390
100k bd ft club.Charter member of The Grumpy old Men

starmac

I think an electric clutch, similar to the auto clutches available on the LT 40 would be a huge improvement over my older LT40.
Old LT40HD, old log truck, old MM forklift, and several huskies.

Crossroads

Quote from: starmac on December 19, 2017, 03:30:50 PM
I think an electric clutch, similar to the auto clutches available on the LT 40 would be a huge improvement over my older LT40.

I must admit, I really like the auto clutch....
With the right fulcrum and enough leverage, you can move the world!

2017 LT40 wide, BMS250 and BMT250,036 stihl, 2001 Dodge 3500 5.9 Cummins, l8000 Ford dump truck, hr16 Terex excavator, Valley je 2x24 edger, Gehl ctl65 skid steer, JD350c dozer

rrleesb

Y'all are great BTW!  Thanks for all the input so far.

starmac

As far as what size wheels to use, I would want it to fit standard bands which ever way you want to accomplish it because of the cost of bands. That said I would probably go with the new bands for the wide cuts, as I understand the cost difference is minimal, and everybody will be making them.
Old LT40HD, old log truck, old MM forklift, and several huskies.

thecfarm

I myself have a shoulder that bothers me. There is no way I would or could move a motor,to engage it. Just the reaching part would bother me. I don't do drive thru. The reaching hurts me. I drop a money bag off at night. I get out of my truck to do it. I have one of those clutches,on my sawmill,like a chainsaw clutch. Can't spell it,just press the thottle.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

rrleesb

I got a quote today from BLM for a 3 sheave centrifugal clutch. It was almost $500. Needless to say I'll be fabricating some sort of belt tensioning device. 

JB Griffin

Use the biggest band wheels you can afford. Absolutely bigger is better.
I a HUGE fan of the hyd pump being engine driven, if you aren't going to have hyd feed and up/down you could use a pump with a 12v clutch on it like what they put on trucks with hay beds or dump beds.
2000 LT40hyd remote 33hp Kubota with 6gpm hyd unit, 150 Prentice, WM bms250, Suffolk dual tooth setter

Over 3.5million bdft sawn with a Baker Dominator.

thecfarm

centrifugal clutch,so that's how you spell that. Man that seem high,real high.  :o 
Thomas Bandsaw is what I have. That is one of the reason I bought it. No way I could saw without a centrifulgal clutch. They have one on all thier mills,I think.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

starmac

So, what is wrong with an electric clutch, same switch could activate the throttle.
I like the idea of the hydraulic pump with an electric clutch too, except you would have a mess with hydraulic lines running back and forth with the head, that would be a pita.
Old LT40HD, old log truck, old MM forklift, and several huskies.

Georgia088

would it be possible to use a centrifugal clutch off of something else? I used a golf cart to build my sawmill. Could you find an old golf cart? They make a tapered adapter for 1" shafts. Or, if you wanted to go electric, could you use a clutch off of a lawn mower. There are several that have electric clutches to engage the blade... maybe I'm missing something, but just a thought.

Kbeitz

You could just tilt you engine to tighten the belt for a simple clutch...
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Hilltop366

Could use a linear actuator or hydraulic cylinder if you are using hydraulics or small winch/ gear motor to tension belt(s). Perhaps a spring in the system would prevent over tensioning.

Crusarius

The clutch I purchased through linn lumber was $310. that was for the 1" shaft. it is 2 pulley clutch. I am using the same 22 hp predator you are talking about. So far seems to work well but I have not cut anything yet.

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