Crown in a verticle post

[ballen]

When sighting a timber to identify the refernece edge and face, I understand to look for any crown.  On a horizontal beam, it make sense for the crown to be up because gravity and time will naturally work to straighten it out.
On a verticle post, however, it's not obvious to me which way to face the crown.  Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Bill

[Rooster]

I like to put the crown within the plane of the wall if it is a outer/ exterior post,  and within the plane of the bent if it is a interior post.  I feel that it is hard to hide the crown if it is bulging out of the plane of the outter wall.   We did the same thing with pole barn posts.

Rooster

[maineframer]

I second that ----crown should be up and out.
We like to say put the ugly out. Of course if it is a severe bow or crook reject it.

[Jim_Rogers]

I'm not sure if I follow your description Rooster; meaning I don't know which way you're saying the crown should be.

David, I do understand that ugly should go out, but that should be applied to knots and other visible defects that make the post look bad.

I believe the standard is to place a post with a crown so that the crown is in towards the middle of the bent, if it's an interior bent. And in and or back if it's a corner post towards the middle of the frame.

The reasons for this is that if it crowns in, the siding if vertical can span the gap, and it can be shimmed out, if needed. If it crowns in, the siding if horizontal can be shimmed out, if needed.
Also, if the connecting girts are cut to dimensions on the drawing then they are too long and can be cut back to fit. If the tie beam or other "in bent" timber is cut to the drawing dimension again it is too long and can be cut back to fit. These discoveries of the "too long" timbers would be found during a frame fit up before raising day.

If you crown the timber out, then it could push the siding out and that may show.
If you crown the timber out, then the connecting girt or tie beam could be too short, if cut to drawing dimension.

It maybe possible to pull a crowned timber in, when placed crown out, but I won't rely on it being possible, and with the stress of the crown being pulled in it may just blow out the relish on the connecting joints.

I do understand that the placement of a timber's crown can be a personal preference thing and that each way will have it's advantages and disadvantages. And I'm not trying to start a debate, I'm just trying to relate what I was taught.

Jim Rogers

[Rooster]

Jim,

I guess I follow your way of thinking when it comes to crown placement.  My preference is to keep the outside of the wall or reference face on a bent as flat as possible for siding and interior wall placement.  I would rather adjust the girts than have a bulge or dip in the wall surface.  I primarily work with re-claimed barn beams, where they have bowed and twisted over their lifespan.  Thank goodness for square rule framing!

Rooster

[maineframer]

Jim,

I can understand your logic. Although personally I would not use a post that is so crowned that it would impair the plane of my siding.
It is my preference to pick my posts carefully.
I try to use my best and straightest posts for the corners.
With that being said I would say reject the very crowned timber or use it for a tie or a girt.
If it is real bad cut it up and throw it in the firewood pile. ;)
Another trick is to snap a line on it and plane it to the line.

[Jim_Rogers]

David:
I do agree, and thanks for your comments.

Jim

[ballen]

Thanks everyone.  I now have a much better idea of what to do with crowned posts!
Bill

[witterbound]

One of the problems I've had with crowned & twisted posts is having enough room to slide the sheet rock behind the post.  In fact, in my home, I ended up with some of my outside stick walls too close to my posts so that sheet rock wouldn't slide in, and some posts too far from my sheet rock so that I've got to figure out some kind of trim to fill the gap.  Anyone else have that problem?  If so, how did you decide to fill the gap??