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Author Topic: How to hold my 18" x 18" post to the floor  (Read 509 times)

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Offline Sedgehammer

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How to hold my 18" x 18" post to the floor
« on: October 04, 2021, 09:48:56 PM »
Now i know it is heavy enough that it isn't going to jump up and run around, but this will be on one end of an the WF beam. I'm of the thought either;

1. A 3/8 plate 15" sq lag screwed by 9, 5/8 x 6" lag screws with 4, 4" x 4" x 2" sq tubing welded to the bottom of the plate and then set this on metal that's been put in the floor. The sq tubing will get welded to the floor, then put some trim around the base.  That will cover up the 2" of the sq tubing that is showing

2. will drill 3, 1.5" holes into a 1" thick plate that is pre-set into the concrete. The post will butt up to this plate. The plate will be 15" wide x 15" above the cement floor. Once the post is in place. I'll either fully bore all the way through the post and make another plate for the other side or will just use some 1.5" x 12" lag bolts and lag it to the plate

If either of these idea's don't make sense or I need to post some drawings, please let me know

Offline Sedgehammer

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Re: How to hold my 18" x 18" post to the floor
« Reply #1 on: October 06, 2021, 11:42:23 PM »
anyones out theres.....

Online mike_belben

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Re: How to hold my 18" x 18" post to the floor
« Reply #2 on: October 06, 2021, 11:48:29 PM »
Single drill into the slab, knock in a peg, pin dowel whatever.  Single centered drill into the post to engage the dowel.  Place an asphalt shingle between post and slab. Grit facing down.  Skewered onto the pin, this is a moisture barrier to prevent dry post from wicking wet slab into endgrain. Important.

Drop the post onto the pin.  Now cut some angle irons and drill some holes. Lag them to the post and use redheads and a hilti to anchor them to the slab. Hide brackets inside the wall.  
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Offline Sedgehammer

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Re: How to hold my 18" x 18" post to the floor
« Reply #3 on: October 07, 2021, 02:04:22 PM »
@mike_belben thanks for the reply

Forgot on the asphalt shingle. even though the floor is heated and there's insulation all around, there isn't directly under the post, as there is a footer

Can't drill into the slab, as floor is heated

I am thinking of pouring the footer separate from the floor pour. I'd prolly make it right @ 18", as I will put a trim piece around the post i figure

Online mike_belben

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Re: How to hold my 18" x 18" post to the floor
« Reply #4 on: October 07, 2021, 04:55:19 PM »
yeah i dont think theres anything wrong with that.  i was around for a pretty big addition at S&W and the post piers were the first pour.  the floor was done inside an otherwise completed building. 


or if you want to do monolithic, just nail stud holders into the wooden perimeter form and be sure you keep your tubing out of it. 
Isaiah 63:10

Offline farmfromkansas

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Re: How to hold my 18" x 18" post to the floor
« Reply #5 on: October 08, 2021, 09:26:24 AM »
If you can't drill the floor, about your only choice is glue.  Maybe mark where the post sits on the floor, and put a big blob of construction adhesive on the floor, put the post on top. Get it plumbed up right away so you don't have to move the post.
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Re: How to hold my 18" x 18" post to the floor
« Reply #6 on: October 08, 2021, 10:23:08 AM »
i would never let radiant heat tubing dictate the proper framing of a structure.  you arent gonna stand barefoot under that post anyway so heat there is just gonna be wasted.   
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Offline Sedgehammer

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Re: How to hold my 18" x 18" post to the floor
« Reply #7 on: October 08, 2021, 12:55:33 PM »
i would never let radiant heat tubing dictate the proper framing of a structure.  you arent gonna stand barefoot under that post anyway so heat there is just gonna be wasted.  
Agreed. Just any anchors need cannot be put into the floor. Can be into the post pier
This post is fully exposed
So what i see is right now is one of the 2 i first suggested. Any other suggestions based on the parameters ? 

Offline Sedgehammer

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Re: How to hold my 18" x 18" post to the floor
« Reply #8 on: October 08, 2021, 12:57:42 PM »
i would never let radiant heat tubing dictate the proper framing of a structure.  you arent gonna stand barefoot under that post anyway so heat there is just gonna be wasted.  

Agreed. Just any anchors need cannot be put into the floor. Can be into the post pier

This post is fully exposed

So what i see is right now is one of the 2 i first suggested. Any other suggestions based on the parameters ?

Offline dougtrr2

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Re: How to hold my 18" x 18" post to the floor
« Reply #9 on: October 09, 2021, 03:54:42 AM »
Is the floor already poured?  If not, just adjust the placement of the tubing to avoid the area where the post will be.

I have radiant floors in my house and garage and love them.  When they laid out the tubing they adjusted the layout to avoid kitchen cabinets.  

Pictures would help.

Doug in SW IA

Online mike_belben

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Re: How to hold my 18" x 18" post to the floor
« Reply #10 on: October 09, 2021, 09:29:17 AM »
Ive read your ideas a few times but am not seeing them in my head, a sketch would be helpful.


If you want exposed post with hidden anchor, consider putting the piers down with a big dowel pipe poured into the pier.  Spade bore that hollow into the bottom of the post to make a register.  Predrill an intersecting hole into one side of the post.  When you set the post on the pin youve now got a drill guide bushing to drill the pipe dowel thats hiding inside the post core. 

 Next bore the wooden hole big enough the fit your socket and drive a lag through the pipe into the opposing wood.  Cap the socket hole with a wood dowel to hide it.


Or.. Same concept but you could predrill all the way through the post with say a half inch long wood drill insecting the pin.  Set post on pin, drill into the post guides from each side with that same half inch bit to penetrate the pin tube. ream it through good and straight then drive in a half inch steel barstock and cut it off flush with the wood on each side.  Thats a better hold down since it ties 2 faces of the post to the pin unlike the screw which only ties one face. 

 Im sure either will outlive us all.
Isaiah 63:10

Online Don P

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Re: How to hold my 18" x 18" post to the floor
« Reply #11 on: October 09, 2021, 10:08:04 AM »
Hit Simpson, strongtie.com, you'll have to fab your own at that dimension but look at, I think they call it a CPTZ, concealed post tie, zinc coated. There are a number of ways to do what we call a knife plate.


Edit, this was one. That is 2 pieces. The bottom plate and hooks ae set in the pour. The post with knife plate is set on top and adjusted to final position then weld them together. Cool, don't crack the concrete.


 
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Offline Sedgehammer

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Re: How to hold my 18" x 18" post to the floor
« Reply #12 on: October 10, 2021, 09:55:36 AM »
@mike_belben i'll try and draw somethin later today, but what Don posted is kinda like that but a flat plate lagged to the bottom of the post, then it wood be welded like the knife plate gets welded

I think you are calling for what @Don P is suggesting also. I don't have any of the tools required for doing that operation. I should've mentioned that before hand. I wood buy a chain mortiser if I felt I wood use it more than a few times. Now that I typed that I was visualizing the number of times........ That'd be 20+ posts between the barndominium and the house.... I see some used for sale on ebay, but geez...... 

Online btulloh

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Re: How to hold my 18" x 18" post to the floor
« Reply #13 on: October 10, 2021, 10:03:25 AM »
That can be done by just boring into the bottom of the post with your chainsaw. 
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Online mike_belben

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Re: How to hold my 18" x 18" post to the floor
« Reply #14 on: October 10, 2021, 10:33:30 AM »
I was just talking a 1.5 or 2" paddle bit, and matching round pipe chairs. The cross pin hole would just be a half inch drillbit so nothing a plain old drill cant do.  Ues its like done except you can rotate the post on the pin until youre lined up nice before finishing the lock pin.  With a flat blade if you set a chair crooked your post is crooked.



The piece would just be a stub of pipe welded through a pierced type hole in a plate flange.  Kinda look like a jack, that spinny toy that went extinct by television. The plate flange sits flush on slab surface to keep the wood from wicking slab water. pipe pin sticks up to go into the register you bored in the posts.  Below slab surface the pipe can have rebar bits welded on for traction in the pour
Isaiah 63:10


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