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Foundation for my frame

Started by ohsoloco, April 15, 2003, 10:47:05 AM

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ohsoloco

I've been thinking about what kind of foundation to put down for my sawshed (if I ever get around to building it  ::) ).  It will have a dirt floor, so I figured I'd just pour some footings where each of the posts will stand in the frame.  Problem is, how do I attatch the posts to the concrete footings?  If the posts were sitting directly on the concrete (over top of some sort of metal rod for stability), wouldn't the timber wick up moisture and eventually rot?   I can't figure this one out  :-/

Bibbyman

I don't know if I fully understand your application.  But I have used a galvanized metal bracket that is made for this application.  It is basically an open top box that bolts to the concrete floor or pier and the post sets into it and is nailed or screwed.  There is a chunk of channel included that sets in the bottom of the box "toes down" that elevates the bottom of the post off the ground about an inch.  This keeps the post dry - thus helping to preventing rot.
Wood-Mizer LT40HDE25 Super 25hp 3ph with Command Control and Accuset.
Sawing since '94

ohsoloco

I've seen those type of brackets used for decks.  Do they make them big enough for an 8x8 or 8x10 post?  

Basically, I want to build a pole barn, but don't want to set the timbers in concrete, b/c I don't want to use pressure treated posts.  Hope I'm making sense here  :-/

Tom

Take your measuring tape if buy some.  I have customers who have used them only to find that they are all manufactured to "dressed wood" sizes.   They have to whittle the full measure timbers I've cut for  them to fit the bracket. :)

Bibbyman

In this topic about sawmill sheds,  there was a post about the Socket System that used metal joints.  I did some talking with these folks and they use a similar type of base contraption.  I think Arky thought it a good idea and built a couple of sets himself.

Building for sawmill

Socket Systems web site
Wood-Mizer LT40HDE25 Super 25hp 3ph with Command Control and Accuset.
Sawing since '94

RMay

My barn now a saw shed was build in 1933 the post are 8 in. by 8 in. lobloly pine that is on a 8 in. by 8in. by 2 feet concrete footings with a tin sheet between the wood and concrete there is no rot on them , you can see them on my web site . 8)
RMay in Okolona Arkansas  Sawing since 2001 with a 2012 Wood-Miser LT40HDSD35-RA  with Command Control and Accuset .

ohsoloco

Nice setup, Roy  ;)   When I do build this thing, the posts will probably be white oak, I just thought that something in between the posts and the concrete would be a good thing.  I still don't know where this thing will end up....at my new house (if I ever find one) or at the folk's place where it's running right now (depends on how much land I luck into).

Roy, are the posts just resting on the footings..the weight of the building keeps them in place?

sawinmontana

At the pavillion I was in on helping build they had put a steel plate in the concrete that was about 12"x12". Then on each post bottom then cut a slot about a foot into the post with a chain saw, Then a plate that was about 8" square that had a piece about a foot long and 4" wide welded to its center, the 4" piece was inserted into the bottom of the post and drilled and pinned in place with a steel pin. then when the pavillion was stood up It didn't have to be dead center on 12" plate. Then it was welded in place.

Ron Wenrich

We used 8x8 locust when we first started on our mill.  But, as the years went on, and we needed more height, we went over to using steel pipe.  

When we poured the concrete, we put 4 bolts into the pad.  We then put a slotted steel plate on the bottom of the pipe.  The plate is then bolted to the pad.  Works pretty well.

You probably could incorporate that with wood.  Bolt a steel plate to the bottom of your post.  

I've also seen where a couple of pieces of steel are put into th concrete.  Then, just bolt the post to the steel pieces.  
Never under estimate the power of stupid people in large groups.

ohsoloco

Thanks for the ideas everyone  :)   Sounds like I could connect the steel plate to the post like sawinmontana suggested, and fasten that to the concrete with the four bolts Ron suggested.  

Now if only I could find some land to put this on  ::)

RMay

ohsoloco I have no idel as the barn is a lot older than me . ::)
RMay in Okolona Arkansas  Sawing since 2001 with a 2012 Wood-Miser LT40HDSD35-RA  with Command Control and Accuset .

ohsoloco

Sounds like the timbers resting on the steel plates should last me a long time then  :)

UNCLEBUCK

i watched a tv show called "home again" with bob villa and he had a post and beam building made for parking his race boats in and if you could see that show he made it look very simple and just used a re-bar drift pin under each post ! i think that show might replay itself every so often ! good luck !
UNCLEBUCK    bridge burner/bridge mender

shopteacher

I'm currently building a 2 story barn and this is the method I use.  I pour a 24"dia. X 4' concrete stump for the footer ( I've been mixing this in a small hand mixer and I'm sure glad the last one is done).  After curing I chalk a line across the top of the stumps where the front of the post will stand.  I cut angle iron (usually 4"X 4") and drill 4 holes, 2 in each side.  I then use 3/4" steel wedge anchors 4" or 5" long. These are made by various companies( Hilti, Red Head, Swedgelok, etc).  I drill the concrete and bolt one side of the angle to it and place the post up against it and hold it in place with lag bolts. Under the post I place a piece of roofing shingle to seperate the wood from the concrete. Then place and fasten the other angle to the other side in the same manner.  I've gotten some really good deals on the anchors on ebay. At Lowes and Home Depot they get pretty expensive.
Proud owner of a LT40HDSE25, Corley Circle mill, JD 450C, JD 8875, MF 1240E
Tilt Bed Truck  and well equipted wood shop.

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