Eclassic 1400 - fuse keeps blowing

[scott60]

Came home from work today and found the fuse was blown on my eclassic 1400.  I tried replacing the fuse first thing and it blew.  Next I shut off power, unplugged the transformer, fan and three solenoids, replaced the fuse and it held, controller was up.  Shut off power and then reconnected components one by one and the fuse held until I had them all reconnected.  I opened the firebox door and then manually pressed in the door switch.   Sometime between opening the door and manually pressing the door switch the fuse is blown.  The water temp is about 140 and reaction chamber temp is about the same.  I am thinking that the bad component is the main solenoid that lets air into the firebox.  Thoughts?  I am down to two good fuses

[beenthere]

scott, welcome to the forum.

Try riggin up a lightbulb to replace the fuse. Then you can watch the glow of the lightbulb as you check various components to see where the short is at. Might be a loose wire or worn wire.  Saves on fuses..

What is the voltage?
What size is the fuse?

[scott60]

beenthere - 5 amp 120v

Also discovered that the lights are not working and the light switch feels different than it usually does.  I have to push it a lot harder than normal.    Used up my last two fuses.  Actually had it running for awhile but then it blew the fuse again.  Going to call my dealer first thing in the morning.

[boilerman101]

If your E1400 is wired the same as my E2400, a few seconds after opening the front door the fan kicks on and firestar goes into high burn, which means the 2 lower secondary solenoids open. If one of those solenoids is bad, that could blow the fuse. I think once fuse is blown, led lights won't work either. I think in an earlier post, Wi Fire had a similiar issue and he had a bad controller that was sending low voltage to a solenoid, which is why it burned out.

[boilerman101]

More thoughts. You said it ran for awhile. If you have a temperature sensing probe in your reaction chamber, those secondary solenoids would not try to fire until reaction chamber temperature reaches 550 before the left secondary solenoid opens and 750 degrees before the right secondary solenoid would open. So if one of those are bad, maybe that would delay those firing and would also allow the unit to run for awhile before the bad one would blow out the fuse.

[scott60]

Thanks for the responses.  My dealer came out today and found a bad solenoid and bad controller.  He is checking to see if he can use the controller from one of the eclassics in his inventory to get me going.