iDRY Vacuum Kilns

Sponsors:

Another build thread... JoshNZ

Started by JoshNZ, August 04, 2019, 08:52:44 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Crusarius

yea, my head is only about 160 pounds 75 kg. Mine will not need to be nearly as strong.

JoshNZ

I finally got around to putting a jockey wheel on the front. I picked it up for $80, and thought it would help with a bit of extra stabilising and setup/pack up.






 

I've decided to install lights permanently on the rear of the bed too. I'm pretty sure this is as long as I want it, and after designing the extension at the front I can see this wouldn't make an extension on the rear impossible either. I definitely went the long way around for the light guards, that is a strip of the 50mm flat bar split down the middle then wrapped into a square. It's all I had...



 

I'm going to tap the tension cylinder and put the gauge right on it. I looked around for a T connector and they wanted $50 for it so it just seemed stupid. I'm going to bail on the RPM gauge idea, for now at least. I have a job for it later in the week, if all goes well, I'll get it back to the shed and start tearing it down for its cleanup and paint job. I really am dreading it haha. Really considering sending it away for galv or even paying to have it blasted and primed.

frazman

I've been following your thread on the build. I've worked in metal fabrication for 35 years and find you have done an excellent job. After all that nice work on the frame , prepping the metal for painting would be a must. Do you have the option on having it powder coated ? Having it plated might be a challenge and would require alot of drain holes. Again, excellent work.

Crusarius

Quote from: JoshNZ on February 16, 2020, 09:48:01 PMReally considering sending it away for galv or even paying to have it blasted and primed.


Wish I had done that, but I knew I wasn't done tinkering with it. Nothing is ever done :)

JoshNZ

I could have it powder coated or galved but like crusarius said, who knows what else will need to be done to it, or repaired... I'll do the prep and get it painted. Thanks for the encouragement.

The list of little things to finish seems to be never ending I think I've been at it 2 days now.

I ended up finding a tee fitting for the gauge so went that way. I had to machine a dowel and press it into the tee for the pumps check valve spring, would be an easy trap to miss that in case anyone uses the same system.
I charged it to 800psi at night and it was 500psi in the morning. I scoured the thing for drops of oil including removing the shaft guide and dipping the seal with paper, dry as a bone so don't know where my 300psi went. Maybe the blade stretches or things just creep into place.

Will get a couple of logs sawn then hopefully a pic up of a new coat of paint next week xD.



 

 


JoshNZ

This is the last item on my list before I tear it down. Everything else is finished  8).

Do I need track wipers...?
And..
Do I paint the track or mask it and leave it oiled or something.

What have the commercial and homebuild guys done?



 

trimguy

I have the same track set up as you. I painted mine. It will wear off after some use. Yes on the track wipers. I didn't realize it would be an issue when I built mine, but the saw dust will get on the angle and the wheel will pack it when it rolls over it. I would like to see some pictures of some wipers that other people have. For now I try to keep it brushed off. It gets old. I need to bring it home so I can do a couple of things to it.

Ljohnsaw

You could just take a piece of heavy flexible plastic, like from a plastic barrel, mount it so it rubs on the rail.  It will eventually wear a groove to conform to the rail.  Maybe use a wing nut and a slot in the plastic so you can lower it as it wears?

I didn't on mine and I noticed a bump - bump - bump one day.  I had a small hole already so I stuck a nail through it so that it rubbed in the wheel groove.  ::)  It worked!
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

JoshNZ

This is what I've done. I wanted to close off the end of that tube so that a bumper on the end of the track can contact it. So if I'm ever day dreaming I don't run my saw off the end of the bed lol.
And I knew I'd curse myself for permanently closing if I ever have to replace those wheels because there's packers each side of them and they won't fit through the slot in the bottom.

Tolerance is pretty good along the whole track. I thought it'd be easy enough to add a piece of plastic/rubber/brushes, but might just see how that goes.

Definitely paint the track? Does it not get crumbly or ball up etc



 

 

Ljohnsaw

Nice! 
I'd still put a small piece of the UHMW-like plastic attach at the bottom edge just rubbing the tip of the track - maybe the top ¼".  Every little bit of sawdust that is balanced on top will get stuck in/to your wheel.  I don't think it makes much difference in your cut, but its just annoying that it goes bump-bump-bump down the track.
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

Crusarius

paint the rails. it will wear off. I used a piece of 1/8" aluminum plate I formed to cover the wheel and it sits on the track with gravity. kinda annoying with the rattle but it scrapes the full rail and I have had no buildup. it has a screw through the front of it that is loose so it can float. I may have pics in my gallery. I can get some when I get home.

JoshNZ

Well it looks like my progress has gone a long way backwards, but it is necessary =[].



 

 

What can you use to cleanup enamel paint/primer in a paint gun other than thinner? And what can you use instead of acetone to clean bare steel? NZ is in full lockdown for 4 weeks and I'm going to run out of both before I finish.

I took a bunch of small parts around to the electroplaters last week, looks pretty neat I'll get a photo later.

I may not get time anyway, we are in the middle of kiwifruit harvest and have been deemed an essential service so for now I'm still busy as all heck. Crazy times here. Hope you are all well.

btulloh

They make a special cleaning solvent that's much better than acetone.  The problem with acetone is it evaporates too fast, but in a pinch I'd use it to clean metal.  Maybe mix it with some thinner to slow it down?

The product I use for cleaning is called Prep-Sol.  It's made for the purpose.  It goes by many trade names though, so you'll have to ask your paint shop.  Available at any commercial paint store, and some retail paint store.  Ask your supplier.

I don't have any suggestion about cleaning the gun.  I hate cleaning the guns, that's what I know about that.  I usually use whatever is recommended for the paint I'm spraying.  Sometimes that's mineral spirits, sometimes Naptha, it all depends.  By the way - I hate cleaning the guns - but there's no getting around it.
HM126

JoshNZ

I have quickly learned I hate cleaning guns as well. There's no simple way to just mix up a bit of paint and prime the odd part is there. No easy way to pour paint either why do they still make it in tins. I understand it's for the paint mixers but seriously. I've had the most luck with ladeling it out. A V on the top made from masking tape works pretty well too but let's the channel fill with paint. And no I can't go out and buy a spout right now haha.

A paint shop is definitely not an essential service so they're shut. Were not allowed to be outside right now. I more meant what might I have i.e. soapy water or petrol hah... I doubt either are better than nothing?

btulloh

Soapy water can leave a residue if you don't rinses thoroughly. My normal routine is:

Spray down with Simple Green
Scrub with a clean brush
Hose off thoroughly 
Blow dry with compressed air
Let stand in the sun for a bit
Wipe down with prep-sol
Acid etch
Prime

That's for stuff I really want to have excellent long term adhesion. 

I cut out a lot of those steps if it's something I'm not trying to be perfect with. 

How about sending some of it out for powder coating?
HM126

Ljohnsaw

Quote from: JoshNZ on March 26, 2020, 01:41:09 PMA V on the top made from masking tape works pretty well too but let's the channel fill with paint. And no I can't go out and buy a spout right now haha.
I have a couple plastic things laying around.  They are a lip that snaps onto the inside ridge of a gallon paint can, though might work on a quart.  About 1.5" wide.  Works for a place to wipe a brush or just to pour out and keeps it out of the groove and no drips down the side of the can.  For a while (house) paint was being produced in a gallon jug that they didn't work on (or really need), so they got tucked away.  Lately, the gallon cans are made of plastic with a top metal ring with the old style lids.  Next time I'm painting, I'll have to find those plastic thingys, wherever they are...
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

JoshNZ

Lol I must not have explained the lockdown properly but the powder coaters are definitely not open xD... All of NZ is a ghost town right now. Empty streets, closed shops.

I'm looking for home remedies to keep me entertained for the next 4 weeks before I run out haha.
I might be able to source some from neighbours or something.

btulloh

I'm with you on the paint cans and the mess.  Being an amateur and an occasional painter, I struggle with all that.  I'm lucky to have a neighbor/friend who does it for a living and a pro paint outlet that gives me a lot of help on materials choices.  But it's always an adventure.  

Hopefully you have enough materials on hand to complete your paint job, since you're on lock down.  Sounds like a good time to get it done even though you have to make do with the what you have.  Hopefully you've got a good enamel and hardener for your finish coat.  I have no doubt you'll end up with a first class job.
HM126

JoshNZ

Happy Easter everyone!

Got a couple of days away from the orchard this week, I told my partner I was going for it on Thursday, prep + prime + paint by that afternoon I told her haha. I got done wire brushing everything down by about 7pm that evening and just got done with the primer about 6.30 this evening. Weren't completely free days I did have work things come up and prob a bit tardy with my mornings being days off xD.

Good one to have under the belt anyway. I managed to get through this session without needing to completely dissemble and clean my gun. Caught on to a pretty tidy routine.



 

btulloh

Nice.  I was wondering if you got some paint on the mill.  Now you can get back to making sawdust.
HM126

Crusarius

awwww man. I think you built it upside down! :)

I know getting paint on mine was a big step. Looks good.

I am still willing to bet your going to hate having that long fixed tongue in the way all the time.

Wait. NM I forgot you have hinged bed section

JoshNZ

Yup there's only about 10" of tow hitch sticking out.

I'm a wee way off making sawdust yet, still got the carriage to do and truckloads of little parts it seems. I've got enough primed now that I can have a good session on top coat next fine day

charles mann

the best cleaning method for a paint gun is to not use 1.  ;D just kidding. looks good. 

when i was painting my mill bed, i mixed the first cup, and about a half a cup, o had the wife start mixing up the next cup. for the 3 coats i put on it, it took 1.5 gal, way more than i thought it would. i also painted just before the sun started setting and let the paint have 8 hrs of cure time, then came back that morning, scuffed it up with 220 on an orbital sander on low, then found something else to do for the rest of the day till just before dark. took me 3 days to get it painted. but it took 2 months for the tractor enamel paint to cook off and harden.

 i figured 2 days and i could clamp things off before heading back on shift for 2 wks. boy was i wrong. even after 2 wks at work, the paint was still weak. i was careful as mush as possible, but gotta go back and touch a few spots up, but i'll mask it off, sand it down, repaint and bled my edges, if i decide to as far as blending. 
im guessing the color additive i used to darken the paint closer to cummins tan might have slowed the curing process. i don't know, but i'll be using kubota orange for the sawhead and carriage. i really want to paint the engine too, but i have to order 3 gal of paint from cummins, at $45 a gal, just for them to ship it to the cummins place. they won't even ship it to my house, and i still have pay for shipping, then drive commiefornia aka: austin, tx, to get stuff. so i may find another appealing color, and paint it that, but dang i want a fresh cummins tan on the lil cummins. 
Temple, Tx
Fire Fighting and Heavy Lift Helicopter Mech
Helicopter and Fixed Wing Pilot

JoshNZ

On that note of painting engines.. do you think I should paint the exhaust headers or do you just leave them as the typical purple scolded mild steel look

JoshNZ

 Looks like we're going to have a couple of weeks off between the harvest varieties so I'm hoping to get a bunch of this painting knocked off. 

Turns out I'm not a natural painter. Looks ok in the photo I guess but lots of stripes and powdery finish areas. Pretty tricky to get right with such complex geometries and small faces, I've found.



 

Thank You Sponsors!