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Need some help deciding  (rather long)

Started by Roger_T, July 07, 2001, 06:29:50 AM

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Roger_T

Morning guys,

Ok, the time has come for me to acquire a saw.  After reading all the different posts on here, I think I have it narrowed down between the Husky 372 and the Stihl 066.  Neither of these saws are set in stone, and I'm open for suggestions.  I do lathe work in the basement, and currently have a bunch of log sections stacked outside of Red Elm, American Elm, and some Cherry.  Included in this are some crotch sections.  I basically want to break these logs down into slabs from 6 to 12" thick.  I was thinking of running ripping chain on the saw and just hand holding it, dont have the money to get an alaskan yet.  

Am I choosing the wrong saws here?

I have looked around the web, and am unable to find any prices on these saws.  What can I expect to pay?  Are there any websites that sell saws??

Im open for suggestions here guys.  As this saw will prob last me the rest of my life.  I dont want to spend more than I have to, but on the other hand, I dont want to end up with a saw that will not perform up to my expectations.  

Thanks guys, and sorry for the long post.

Roger

Kevin

Rog,
If you just want one saw and you won`t be milling anything over 12" you can get by with the 372 but milling hardwood will be a good work out for it.
The 066 is too big for your purpose I think.
I have two saws, a 066 and a 262 (62cc)Husqvarna which I have used in the past for milling cedar and spruce up to 14" with an 18" bar and it works well with the proper ripping chain but when you get into the 14" stuff the saw starts to work.
I`ll still mill with it but the 066 is better suited for my milling purpose, it makes the 262 look like a toy but it`s a good saw for milling with the Alaskan.
I think it`s best to buy from a local dealer but if you want an option you might consider buying Canadian only because of the money savings.
Try and get the Alaskan if you can, it`s only $140US.
If you have a 14" bandsaw for wood working you can rip short lengths with that also using the proper band.
You shouldn`t be using a ripping chain free hand, it can be dangerous.

Roger_T

Kevin,

Thanks for the insight,  I have a 14" bandsaw, and have just about burnt the motor up tryin to break down some of these pieces.  Most of these pieces are in the 20" plus range, so putting them thru the bandsaw is an impossibility.  I have borrowed the inlaws John Deere saw, but it just wont go thru the elm without really bearing down on it and using the dogs.  I believe its way underpowered and probably does not have the best chain for the job on it.

I've cut alot of wood in the past, but that was just bucking and limbing.  This slabbing is a whole nutter ball game.  Plus the fact that I basically deal with all hardwoods here.

BTW,  when you built your bridge, when you cut the support beams, did you cut them flat? or did you cut them with a crown in them to help bear the load?  Im a carpenter an thats just one of them gotta know questions. ;D ;D  Love your pics and website.  

Thanks,

Roger

Kevin

I took one slab off the top, debarked the log then put tar paper on the flat before nailing down the planks.
You can see a picture of the stringer in this picture...


Bill Johnson

Kevin
I may have missed something here. But why did you put the tar paper down before nailing down the planks?

Bill
Bill

Jeff

That bridge is actually across the St. Marys river. The Tar paper is to keep the boards from squeaking so he can sneak into Michigan and look at our trees and shop at walmart with out us knowing.
Actually thats a good question. Why cause Kev?
Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

KiwiCharlie

G'day Roger,

Sounds to me like the choice for you would be either the 372XP or the 046 Magnum.  At 70 odd cc's, I think its big enough for your requirements.  They are pro saws, so will be able to hold up to the extra stress of ripping better than a home owner saw.  If you have a lot of hardwood timber over 20", and will be cutting a lot of it, then maybe the 066 would suit, but if you can only see yourself ripping a couple of logs a week for turning, I think the 372/046 would be better.  If you want to cut yourself some firewood in the future, the 066 would have you on your knees after a tankful or two!  I would go for the Stihl, but Im a Stihl man!
I dont have any recent experience with Husky, but the 372 is gathering quite a following at the moment.  I guess it comes down to price and service/dealer choices in you area.
I really really[/i] wouldnt like to see anyone ripping by hand, even with ripping chain.  They do it in Idonesia with Stihl 090's on a regular basis, but scary aint a big enough word!
Follow the link at the bottom for a cheap way to build yourself an Alaskan clone.
You can buy Husky over the web I beleive, but you wont find Stihl for sale anywhere, its just their policy.  They want to get you to see a dealer, which can be a good thing (as long as the dealer is a good one and not just interested in the sale.....)
Having to bear down on a saw to make it cut, to me suggests the chain and rakers need some serious attention!!  Sure the John Deere would be underpowered, but the cutting would just be slow if the chain was ok, you shouldnt have to bear down on it.
Sorry for the long winded answer!
Cheers
Charlie.

http://home.iprimus.com.au/eddiema/projects/csmill/mill.htm
Walk tall and carry a big Stihl.

Jeff

Man I love this board. Thanks for the link Kiwi! That pic of the guy actually sawing on that old snag and getting a table of such beauty. Awesome.
Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

L. Wakefield

   Kiwi- I LOVE the part on page 3 of your website ref ('Eddie's chainsaw mill')- the part beginning 'Modern humans'... There is something very organic and fluid- and important- in this concept. Similar things have been done where living parts of the environment are built into the dwelling (or the dwelling is built around them).
  
   Frank Lloyd Wright used a portion of this when asked to put in walkways in a newly built area. Rather than try to put them in by some predetermined rule, he just waited a short time till people had walked enough to wear pathways in the grass. Then that's where he put the walkways. It is a style acknowledging rhythms and patterns not conventionally addressed. (Convention, of course, can be changed).

   One thing it is hard to do- building a space/shelter/dwelling incorporating living trees as framing. It just raises H*ll when the wind blows..  :D :D :D :D :D   lw
L. Wakefield, owner and operator of the beastly truck Heretik, that refuses to stay between the lines when parking

Kevin

Welcome back Jeff.
I use the tar paper to prevent rot from water and snow sitting on top of the stringers.
If you want to get several more years out of a deck the paper is inexpensive and does a great job preserving the wood.

timberbeast

Roger:  You're saying up to about 12".  Why not pull out the maul and split them,  do a little hewing to get a decent flat,  and run 'em through the bandsaw?  I did that myself when I was playing around on the lathe.  A 1/4"blade is plenty if you go slow and pay attention to the bandsaw's sound,  and make sure the guides are set "just so". Or if you're in the U.P.,  email me and bring a couple 6 footers over,  and I'll dice them up for you on my mill,  gratis.  Don't rip by hand,  guy.  Too scary with a chainsaw!!  As far as chainsaws go,  when in doubt,  buy a Stihl.  When not in doubt,  buy a Stihl anyway.  (Can you tell I like Stihls?)  Hee hee.
Where the heck is my axe???

Gordon

My vote is for the Husky but either one is a good choice. Make sure you have a good dealer for parts and service if needed.

L Wakefield, Frank Lloyd Wright a genus http://www.cypgrp.com/flw/
Here is one of my favorites


Some people can see what others can't
Gordon

L. Wakefield

   I think I read recently that 'Fallingwater') in your picture) was getting to need some reparis. The writeup may have been in 'Architectural Digest' recently. I'll see if I can find it.   lw
L. Wakefield, owner and operator of the beastly truck Heretik, that refuses to stay between the lines when parking

Tom

Roger,

I know it is not the most economical way to cut bowl stock, but I have cut a bit like this when logs were to short to put on my mill.

Fabricate a bit of a 'Chock' to put the log in and cut it lengthwise.  Even a cross-cut chain will cut in this direction although you need to stop every once in a while and pull the long "ambrosia" strands from the sprocket. Whoa....lock the blade and turn the saw off first.

The diagram shows the best way to attack the log.  Snap a chalk line to follow unless your eye is pretty good.  Yep, if the bar doesn't go all the way through then you can cut on the other end too.

Don't cut all the way through initially so that the chock can hold the log up for both cuts.  Release the bowl stock with final small cuts to the bottom.

The center "board" containing the pith can be planed and used for cabinet work if you want. (assuming it is straight enough)

The blanks can be straight enough for  mounting on a lathe if you are fairly careful.




CHARLIE

Roger, I agree that being able to slice a log up into thick boards would be the ideal way. A lot more consistancy and overall...less work.  I don't have a way to do that either and I basically cut the log into short chunks and split them with my little 2.0 cubic inch Craftsman. It's not ideal but works. If the wood is straight grained (wouldn't work with you elm, crotchwood or stump wood), I might split it with a maul and wedges before taking a chainsaw to it.

What do you turn? Sounds like you're preparing bowl stock. I just got back from the AAW Symposium in St. Paul. I figured I'd go since it was so close. I sure had a good time. They have an Instant Gallery where anyone attending can bring up to 3 of their turnings to show. Holeee Schmolee, what some people can do with wood on a lathe. Hundreds of impressive stuff from huge vessels to small tiny stuff. I don't know if you've been to an AAW Symposium or not, but if one is ever in your area, I'd recommend it.

Charlie  
Charlie
"Everybody was gone when I arrived but I decided to stick around until I could figure out why I was there !"

Kevin

and then there`s always this gizmo ...


Don P

I've got one of those. Check out my work in progress page for a shot in use. Its no ripper. There is no bar oiler at all, I keep a squeeze bottle and hit it every cut or two. I use it for crosscuts and flares when nothing else will work but before I resort to the 034 as it does have a foot as a reference point. Linear Link makes one with a manual oiler. Mine is mounted to a dedicated Milwaukee sidewinder as it was the highest amp saw I could get it to mount to. As long as I'm rambling, I run the 034 w/16" bar because I do alot of work with a part of the bar best left unsaid out of necessity. The lower power and shorter lever mean less chance of an out of control kick. There are definitely places where bigger is not better. A former co-worker split his nose right down the middle doing a cirletop window cutout on a second story scaffold. Early on a boss said "Whether you are paying attention or not the machine is always watching you."

Timber_Tramp

Hi Roger, this is just that saw for you. Gauranteed to make the "big chips", fly. Its just a little Husky 3120 with  119cc.
    John


swampwhiteoak

Wow, Timber, that's must be a real nice one.  I've never seen a chainsaw with remotes before  ;).

Timber_Tramp

Ya, it works really great with the remotes and cleans the house and falls timber by itself as well.
 Here's it's little brother:
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1426327&a=11169207&p=44329656

Frank_Pender

Roger, I have an 066 and 2 044's.  I have done ripping with both.  The 66 has been excellent for quartering some 6' Seuoia I get into the mill.  It is also excellent for the 5 and 6' cottonwood logs I have sawen.  I do not use a ripping chain for any one of the says.   I have had excellent success with the 44 on all of the maples and oaks I have slabed in the last 3 or 4 years.  You might seriously consider an 044 or the o46 pro, but stay with the Stihl, it is your best bet for sure.  I hve run thhis brand for 35 years and never had a problem  other than those I create for myself with these saws.  the bese of luck in your decision.  Please let us know the outcome and results of use also would be terrific. ::)
Frank Pender

fencerowphil (Phil L.)

Hey Roger T.
I waited for years to get something to mill with just for fun.  When my Stihl 090, 132cc arrived two days ago with a 41" Rollomatic bar, I thought ...
     "What have I DONE!?"    :o

There is no way in the world that I would touch a ripping chain to wood with this monster.  I am glad I am scared of this baby.  I better be.

Today, a customer offered me about 2300 bdf of yellow pine in three big logs (from one 40' trunk).  Now I got the saw.  Now I got the wood.  
GULP !   The only thing that is going to fly faster than the sawdust is my adrenalin SHOOTIN' THRU MY VEINS!
Phil L.
Bi-VacAtional:  Piano tuner and sawyer.  (Use one to take a vacation from the other.) Have two Stihl 090s, one Stihl 075, Echo CS8000, Echo 346,  two Homely-ite 27AVs, Peterson 10" Swingblade Winch Production Frame, 36" and 54"Alaskan mills, and a sore back.

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