I have a new to me Norwood 36HD. One the first day of trying to cut something on it, I decided just to start with some 1x's now using the scale on the mill you are working from the top down to the bottom. So I made a cant started cutting down 1 inch at a time. When you get to the last board. The mill wont cut a 1 inch last board. Shows as 1.2 inches to the bed and also all the dogs are in the way. So now I am left with a 1.2 inch thick board...So how is the last board cut? I tried putting another board under it, but if that is how you do it how do you dog it down? Not enough room on the edge of the board to hold it without hitting the dogs with the blade...Thanks for you patience, more to come I am sure.
My hd36 will cut 7/8" on the last board. You need to adjust your mill.
When you say"dogs", are you talking about the clamp ?
Check to see what is the issue, the mill is able to cut within-in 1" of the deck. Go to Norwood's website and watch the video, maybe that will help you see the issue.
To get there, just click on the adv. for Norwood in the column to the left.
Yeah when I say dogs I mean the clamp on one side and then there is the the other thing dont know the name of, it is the roller you rest the log against. Okay, I will take another look at it and the norwood site
Quote from: squarpeg on June 17, 2021, 12:25:56 PM
Yeah when I say dogs I mean the clamp on one side and then there is the the other thing dont know the name of, it is the roller you rest the log against. Okay, I will take another look at it and the norwood site
The "dog" is the clamp, the "rest" is, well, the log rest ;D
On top of the log rest, connected to the roller/wheel, there should be a metal shroud that can come up/over the roller. It has a few teeth to bite into and hold that last board in place once you've lowered the log dogs and rests into position.
Take your time and, if you haven't already, check out Dave Boyt's YouTube series on the HD36, a lot of helpful tips there.
Also, if you bought it used, find the serial number and let Norwood know you're the new owner. That'll open up an inroad for parts and service.
The clamp should be 3/4' above the bunks at it's lowest position. Check and make sure theres nothing under your mill that's blocking it.
Here's a couple of pictures that might help you.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/59254/IMG_20210617_143954000.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1623955193)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/59254/IMG_20210617_143935078.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1623955192)
Well one thing I notice is that the clamp you are using has a pin in it, near the top. I am finding mine difficult to use, but the pin is in the very bottom, I thought it was there just to keep it from pulling out. So those pins are supposed to be moved around I take it?
Ok. Now we're getting somewhere. The pin needs to be in the top hole. It also goes through part of the clamp. If you look in the hole and move the hook part of the clamp around you will see a hole in that pert that the pin goes in. It's a pivot for the cam lock mechanism. The cam lock won't function properly without it. Once it's put together properly, it's very easy to use. Most of the time I can clamp 1 handed.
My EZ 40 last cut is 1 1/8" thick. I usually take my last 1" board at the 2" mark. Then I lower to 1 5/8" so my last board is a 2X whatever. I thought I could adjust it down to 1" but it will kiss the dogs that low.
That's the same way I finish on my EZ Jr, if I am thinking ahead. :)
Wow! I thought all bandsaw Mills would cut 1" on the last board. I get a lot of jobs for 1" boards and having to make a 2x on the last cut could be an issue.
I thought mine just needed adjusting down to 1" but learned the hard way, leave it at 1 1/8. Having extra 2x whatever is not a problem, I can always use them for something.
I like to saw to just above the pith the turn 180 and repeat. Having an odd size dog board with the pith in it seems better, plus I'm probably going to flip to counteract stress anyway. The dog board can then get the pith edged out leaving 2 qsawn boards that can be planed, used for a brace, or whatever. Just another way to deal with the situation.
Just for fun this morning I decided to see how close I could saw to the deck and not hit anything.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/59254/IMG_20210619_095800902~0.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1624111281)
Bottomed out as far as the head will go down. 13/16"
I try to end up with a beam, to avoid adjusting all the clamps every time. I have some standard dimensions that I saw, and when ending on a size more than an inch you would be good. Would be handy to be able to adjust all the clamps from one point, because now I can forget one. Especially when I finish for the day I let the head travel to the beginning of the bed to the auto stop and it will hit a clamp when I forgot one :-\
An 85 lt30 only cuts to 3" from the bed.
Ok i figured it out. I did manage to nick the metal stop you clamp against. Lesson learned. My scale was off a bit. Can get 1 inch but decided ill cut the last one 1/8 over for piece of mind. Still looks scary close.
Be sure to check that bottom clearance any time that you do a mill alignment!
It can change!
I can mill down to 3/4". My fixed back stops are 1/2". My cam dawgs allow me to clamp very low.
Quote from: Jeff on June 20, 2021, 03:06:27 PM
An 85 lt30 only cuts to 3" from the bed.
Does yours have the cam-style clamp?
I can cut down to 2" on my 83 LT30. If you put the postitioner-thingy UNDER the clamp positioning bar and up against the bottom of the clamp positioning bar (the thing with holes in it that holds the clamp,) it will cut down to 2" without too much work.
I do have the cam. Lease favorite part of the mill.. My head bottoms out on the ride along battery
I could get 2.5 but have to push the head right down on the battrry box. I do have a modified box, but it got wider not taller foe a standard battery.
My 87 lt30 will cut to 7/8 inch but i dont use the clamp for the last 4-5 boards. I leave them on the bunks to hold everything down while I cut