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New MS-261CM hard starting when hot

Started by sumpnz, April 18, 2021, 08:17:11 PM

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doc henderson

I had tried that with each start and made no difference with mine.  I think that is the difference between a working M-tronic and a non working one.  good thoughts. 
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

kantuckid

To finish up my comments toward my MS-241 CM M-Tronic saws issues: Dealer just called me and my saws ready for pickup. Essential to the repair is the Stihl program for your model & a laptop and of course, the saw itself. You cannot throw parts at these saws if the motronics involved in the issue. it might be useless plus expensive. 
He said it was running too rich to idle properly-was due to a faulty solenoid valve. Running rich makes sense as it had begun to show more oil/smoke from the exhaust as it also began to idle poorly and get balky, plus hard to start hot. He replaced the spark plug on logic due to it running rich for awhile. He also said that he could see the fuel filter had collected some stopage material and replaced it too. As I'd mentioned, before he's seen a number of these newer saws that had filter issues.  The motronic filters are not dangling on tubing as was before.
Now, if I had a tractor and it would stop raining every day... :'( 
Kan=Kansas;tuck=Kentucky;kid=what I'm not

axeman2021

Quote from: kantuckid on May 04, 2021, 01:59:28 PM
To finish up my comments toward my MS-241 CM M-Tronic saws issues: Dealer just called me and my saws ready for pickup. Essential to the repair is the Stihl program for your model & a laptop and of course, the saw itself. You cannot throw parts at these saws if the motronics involved in the issue. it might be useless plus expensive.
He said it was running too rich to idle properly-was due to a faulty solenoid valve. Running rich makes sense as it had begun to show more oil/smoke from the exhaust as it also began to idle poorly and get balky, plus hard to start hot. He replaced the spark plug on logic due to it running rich for awhile. He also said that he could see the fuel filter had collected some stopage material and replaced it too. As I'd mentioned, before he's seen a number of these newer saws that had filter issues.  The motronic filters are not dangling on tubing as was before.
Now, if I had a tractor and it would stop raining every day... :'(
That is really good news and glad you have a Sthil dealer that really tried to get the saw fixed, also this gives a lot more insight as to the  the problems these saws have and what it takes to fix them.

Jim Chance

So both saws (261m, 201m) are much better since I got rid of that batch of fuel. No longer have the vapor lock issues. The 261 is fine. The 201 is still a little persnickety. Bleeping the throttle on a cold start often kills it. I have to disengage the brake on fast idle and blow it out a bit to get it to behave. I am also beginning to think I am better off not putting it in "start" once it is warm but it instead starting it in "run" despite what the manual says. The calibration procedure on the 201 seems to help if it starts misbehaving. On the 261, which has an older version of mtronic and a different procedure, not so much. Altogether I would prefer if they were non-M, but they are ok with the better gas.

doc henderson

Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

donbj

I may be skinny but I'm a Husky guy

Woodmizer LT40HDG24. John Deere 5300 4WD with Loader/Forks. Husky 262xp. Jonsered 2065, Husky 65, Husky 44, Husky 181XP, Husky 2100CD, Husky 185CD

axeman2021

Like doc Henderson posted use run not choke when saw is hot, if your saw will start cold and you have done the Calibration procedure there is nothing wrong with the saw.

I have found my saws and other 2 cycle tools start and run much better since switching to Red Armor oil in real gas.

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