Looking for a decent Chainsaw sharpener?

[Skeans1]

lxskllr. Do you really take the bar off your saw to clean out the sawdust under the cover and clean the bar? If I done that my saw would probably quit altogether from shock. You must really take good care of your equipment. Good for you.

Man that's a must if you're production cutting timber as well as flipping the bar.

[lxskllr]

I'd say I take "adequate" care of my saws. I don't detail them or anything, but I like to keep the big chunks cleaned out. I go through it with a stiff brush, and clean the bar rails/oil holes. If it's nice out, and I don't feel like moving right away, I'll pick out some of the other non functional grooves under the cover, but I don't worry about that much. Functional clean is what I go for, not literal clean. It's a good way to unwind after cutting.

[teakwood]

lxskllr. Do you really take the bar off your saw to clean out the sawdust under the cover and clean the bar? If I done that my saw would probably quit altogether from shock. You must really take good care of your equipment. Good for you.

Man that's a must if you're production cutting timber as well as flipping the bar.

I don't do it ether, too lazy. I flip the bar when i put a new chain on, also blow the bargrove clean with the air compressor 

[kantuckid]

Flipping the bar is simply good practice IMO and would only need done when it's easy anyway. 
Cleaning the groove & oil holes is the same thing. Back at the shop I'll blow out my saws and clean things up well, but in the woods I use a wood sliver off of a branch down the groove if forced to change out a chain or bars not oiling well. Smaller saws do clog more easily than larger pro saws. 

 The Stihl file holder gizmo I can easily do w/o. Far too pricey when I'm getting along fine with a file in a wood handle this many years. 
I'd consider it a lucky streak indeed to get by w/o grinding a chain at some point in it's life on the "rock pile" of a forest where I live! :D

One of my sons (in AL) who is a very occasional saw user had an issue with his saw recently. I took a look at the chain and his Stihl 2in1 file gizmo and told him I'd take the chain home to restore it by grinding-plus he'd been sold a saw with the sharpener included and the wrong size file for his Stihl 180 model saw was in that sharpener and way too large. I showed him the Stihl bars stamped in markings that tell the tale on his chain specifics and the chart included with that sharpener which listed the correct file for that chain.  

[Skeans1]

lxskllr. Do you really take the bar off your saw to clean out the sawdust under the cover and clean the bar? If I done that my saw would probably quit altogether from shock. You must really take good care of your equipment. Good for you.

Man that's a must if you're production cutting timber as well as flipping the bar.

I don't do it ether, too lazy. I flip the bar when i put a new chain on, also blow the bargrove clean with the air compressor

Best tool for a bar groove is a hack saw blade or a piece of stainless steel 1/16 tig filler rod. They both are faster then compressed air as well as you're sure with normally two swipes the rails are clean.

[lxskllr]

I have a chainsaw multitool that has a bar scraper in it. I use that if it's with me. Otherwise, I have a piece of stainless strapping with a wire attached I use to clean it out.

[Tacotodd]

@Skeans1 , I also use the hacksaw blade trick, I thought I was the only one. 🤪 I tend to use stuff that I have on hand, or I'll buy something (that's affordable for me) if it's ultimately going to do a better job.

[JOE.G]

I am happy with the 2-1 I have always been in the habit of hitting my chain with the file after each normal use. So far the results have been good with the 2-1. I was using a 7/32 on the 3/8 Stihl chain and I don't believe I am getting down on the tooth as far with the 13/64. This may because of the way the 2-1 sits, I may have been going to far with the old file.

[maple flats]

To answer your original question, I used to sharpen by hand and got them very sharp, but eventually arthritis in my thumbs made it very difficult. I then bought a MAXX PRO chainsaw sharpener and it does a perfect job every time. The main thing when using an electric sharpener is to take the time to set it up so you remove the least amount possible or you will shorten the chain's life. That seems to be the way many if not most saw shops do it, so you will buy more chains sooner.
I have 5 different saws, and several chains for each. As one dulls, I remove it and put a new one one. When I get several that need sharpening and weather that tends to say it's  good day to sharpen chains, I do the whole lot. I sharpen all of one size one one side, then flip the sharpener head and rest for the other side. I find that far faster than sharpening one chain at a time. Too much time spent to change from one side to the other IMHO. I often do 20-30 chains total at a time, in a few different sizes. The 2 saws I use for most cutting I have 10-15 chains made up, my lesser used saws I have 3-7 or 8 chains made up.

[lxskllr]

Had my stuff out today, so I figured I'd take a pic of my cleaning stuff...



I have other stuff, but these are my preferred tools that I keep in my saw stuff bag. It would be nice if the brush bristles were a little longer for outboard clutches, but it works ok. I also want to put a sharper tip on the wire, but I never seem to get to it.