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Milling Fallen Trees.... or not

Started by wbhmX75, November 20, 2023, 01:42:34 PM

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Hi, new member here.  I looked through the Milling forum and couldn't find an equivalent question so here goes/

I have 2 trees on the ground:  First one is a PigNut Hickory that blew down 3 years but upended root ball was still keeping most of the tree alive until I severed it last Fall.   After clean up I have a 18" diameter straight trunk of about 30' long.   Trunk has no damage and bark is still intact.  Is this worth milling for slabs or planks?  I also have a similar 19" diameter white oak that was dropped 2 years ago that I thought might be worth milling for flooring a couple of small rooms in my property. I meant to get to the latter last Fall but got waylaid on other clearance on my property.  I just cut the white oak up into 3 x 10' lengths.  The wood has no mushrooms on it and no checking at ends, looks fairly "white" at the ends.   I have chainsaw mill and 70cc 24" Husqvarna.   Any comments on either tree or whether wood condition precludes milling?


Welcome! I am not familiar with that species but might be worthwhile if the wood is suitable for flooring.
old age and treachery will always overcome youth and enthusiasm


 Hire or buy a bandmill, the extra lumber would pay for most of the milling cost plus you wont wear out your chainsaw.  Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader


Hickory and white oak logs 2or 3 years old will be very hard.  With enough time, patience and sharpening the chain, you can probably slab them.

I have a Husqvarna 372 xp I started chainsaw milling with about 8 or 9 years ago - on my second Woodmizer sawmill now. 
Woodmizer LT50, WM BMS 250, WM BMT 250, Kubota MX5100, IH McCormick Farmall 140, Husqvarna 372XP, Husqvarna 455 Rancher


I milled a pignut hickory last year probably about the same size as yours.Cut a lot easier than I expected and made some pretty lumber but it is extremely hard to get it to dry straight.Maybe with a lot of weight on the stack and some ratchet straps you could have better luck.
Bill Medley WM 126-14hp , Husky372xp ,MF1020 ,Homemade log arch,Yamaha Grizzly 450,GMC2500,Oregon log splitter


You're looking at 2 of the hardest species so it will take some effort with a CSM. The WO will definitely be good, hickory may have some sapwood rot.
Be sure to spray borate on the hickory before stickering -it's candy for powder post beetles.
LT15 W/Trailer, Log Turner, Power Feed & up/down
CAT 416 Backhoe W/ Self Built Hydraulic Thumb and Forks
Husky 372XP, 550XPG, 60, 50,   WM CBN Sharpener & Setter
40K # Excavator, Bobcat 763, Kubota RTV 900
Orlan Wood Gasification Boiler -Slab Disposer



I have a chain saw mill- 090 Stihl on a granberg with a 48" throat opening (widest I can mill).  In only used  this rig for milling slabs.  I've done about 12 logs and it's HARD WORK.  I don't look forward to chain saw milling.  I've also got a bandsaw mill that has a 23.5" throat opening.  Since doing my chainsaw milling, I've found a guy about 40 minutes drive away with a Lucas slabbing mill.  I've had him do a number of subsequent logs because it's easier for him with his equipment and worth it for me to haul the logs to him and pay him.  

Those logs you have can be milled on a regular band mill, and if it were me, I'd have them milled by a bandmiller.  You didn't say whether you can load and haul the logs, but that would be my choice.  It's cheaper usually to haul the logs to a stationary sawyer than to have a mobile come out, but that's the second option. 

If you have a machine with forks, I'd build lumber pallets for your material.  Makes moving bunks of material much easier.  Have good stickers ready ahead of time.  Here's a link to a post on lumber pallets.
Lumber Pallets
Anything someone can design, I can sure figure out how to fix!
If I say it\\\\\\\'s going to take so long, multiply that by at least 3!


Thanks for the various comments.  I enclose some pictures of the white oak I did the first cut on yesterday.   I trimmed the ends to fit my 10' EZ rails and leveled the rails then took off first 3 inches.   You can see the wood looks ok.  I used a new ripping chain and found the saw cut through the wood (with some time to idle every 3ft of cut) quite smoothly.   I thought it would be a bit harder given a couple of the comments.  I also noticed the shavings were a bit more powdery that I expected though.  Wood seems to be in solid shape.Took me only about 7 mins to cut through the almost 9' length.  I also have a new winch kit (HOTELL) to assist although the key screw locking the stem on the handle dropped out after a few inches so I had to push the mill through the log but didn't have to push too hard.





Glad it worked to your expectations!  There are quite a few guys who get a lot of pleasure from chainsaw milling. 

7 minutes isn't too bad.  I suppose I'm too impatient.
Woodmizer LT50, WM BMS 250, WM BMT 250, Kubota MX5100, IH McCormick Farmall 140, Husqvarna 372XP, Husqvarna 455 Rancher


Looks good,When there's the Will there's a Way!
Bill Medley WM 126-14hp , Husky372xp ,MF1020 ,Homemade log arch,Yamaha Grizzly 450,GMC2500,Oregon log splitter



Looks good. A new chain always works the best until you learn how to sharpen. Sharpen sooner and will  help keep the sawing easy. 
IDRY Vacum Kiln, LT40HDWide, BMS250 sharpener/setter 742b Bobcat, TCM forklift, Sthil 026,038, 461. 1952 TEA Fergusan Tractor

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