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Author Topic: Debarking wood for log furniture  (Read 42628 times)

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Offline hwsh

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Re: Debarking wood for log furniture
« Reply #20 on: April 06, 2013, 06:12:04 AM »
hi all ,first post here.I think this might really help someone.my friend & rustic wood worker david built this machine for peeling sticks
 and small logs.these are of the machine being built :

 

 

 

 

 

 

next a video of the first time trying it 


one more 

David made some changes to the machine later .I am sure he will be happy to answer questions about it .

his Facebook  http://www.facebook.com/pages/David-Harrisons-Rustic-Furniture-workshop/107213216018100.

hope this helps since I learned so much from this place.     


Offline TheWoodsman

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Re: Debarking wood for log furniture
« Reply #21 on: January 02, 2014, 06:13:27 PM »
There is a specific type of sander used by the large rustic furniture manufacturers such as Old Hickory.  They are foreign made and I just can't remember the name at the moment.  They use scalloped edge belts which are turned inside out  I'll have to dig up my "secrets of rustic furniture manufacturing" file when I get back to my office.

To the OP, don't you like any of the drill-mounted tenon tools ?  I used to have the heavy steel ones from Bignell Machine which were several hundred dollars each and mounted on a 5 hp motor. 
2009 Wood-Mizer LT40HDG28, WM-DH4000 dry kiln, & lots of other great "toys"

I am the Woodsman, the four-wheelin', tree-farmin', custom-furniture-makin' descendant of Olaf "The Woodcutter" Ingjaldsson.

Offline LittleJohn

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Re: Debarking wood for log furniture
« Reply #22 on: January 22, 2014, 10:38:48 AM »
About tenon cutters, I have a couple 1" and 1.5", the later takes a monster drill to run.  One thing to think about before buying one is do you want a tenon with chamfer or tenon with radius.

 I have radius tenon cutters, and they are very difficult to cut if you trying to turn down the maximum size with a flat face.  For example, 1.5" cutter will handle up to about 3" maybe a little over; if you don't draw shave down the end to somewhere near 2", and put a pretty decent tamper on the log otherwise you will not be able to hold onto the drill as the cutter jump all over as you try to start your cut.

Offline Ax- man

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Re: Debarking wood for log furniture
« Reply #23 on: January 30, 2014, 09:28:19 PM »
I have been logged out for quite some time and decided to check in and see what was going on. ;D ;D I was surprised to see this thread back up on top

I am still doing the log furniture thing but I don't have the time to do it as much as I would like. Debarking these small diameter logs is still challenging but not as hard as it used to be. I have tried a few different approaches to the problem. Leaning the small log against something and then peeling or shaving  it so to speak  with a chainsaw going with the grain works OK but is noisy and eats up too much gas and bar oil. An adze or foot ax works pretty good for getting tough bark off and then using a good sharp hatchet to clean-up after the adze. These two tools work good but leave a very rough log that makes it kind of hard to use a draw knife to get a nice smooth surface. If it is hard to use the draw knife I get out the angle grinder with the 40 or 60 grit flap wheel to smooth the log out. This  works OK but is messy and breathing dust is not good for the lungs unless you wear a mask.

A good sharp draw knife still seems the most economical and can produce quick results if the bark is not to tight and the log does not have to many knots in it.

To answer the question about drill powered tenon makers. I have nothing against them just can't justify the cost. I would like to try one. the one I got from Bailey's does the job but does have it's shortcomings

Offline m wood

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Re: Debarking wood for log furniture
« Reply #24 on: February 01, 2014, 05:59:40 AM »
Ax-man, I just CANT find pics of my old shop, but here's what I did for peeling.  Had a dirt floor so I burried two 4"x4" posts in-line 6 feet apart, then ran a 4" wide 6/4 board between them and bolted and braced.  This whole set up was about belt high when standing next to it.  I could get to both sides of this set up and around both ends. (I hated sitting down to peel, and the short little distances I could get between moving and adjusting the log).  Up the sides of the posts and raised 2" above the 6/4 board, were 2 side boards that cradled my log in place.  Using a monster Jorgenson clamp that was stationary by screwing it to the bottom of the 6/4 board made it possible to quickly clamp into the cradles and adjust to any large or small log I wanted to peel, and any length possible if it (the log) would fit in the shop.  I could use the grinder, the hand power planer or the drawknife in this stet up.  I could make 12' long passes or short strokes, whatever my arms and back felt like doing.  It was a fraction of the time.  I would also clamp with 2 jorgensons when I was cutting tennons with my Barkers or Veritas.

I miss that Skinny little clamp table and will make another some day in my new shop with a concrete floor.
mark

PS; Make it sturdy, there's a lot of torque on those 2 posts :)   
I am Mark
80 acre woodlot lots of hard and soft
modified nissan 4x4/welding rig
4x4 dodge plow truck
cat 931b track loader
Norwood mark IV
4' peavy
6' peavy
stihl 034
"her" wildthing limber saw
ALL the rustic furniture  woodworking stuff
check out FB

Offline Ax- man

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Re: Debarking wood for log furniture
« Reply #25 on: February 01, 2014, 10:01:40 AM »
This sounds like a good idea . I can picture it because I have made a peeling station that is some what similar only on a slightly smaller scale. I made it to be portable so I can move it around my little shop. It works but the clamping system I thought would work good can be a pain. I might be able to alter the one I have.  If not it is no big deal to make another one based on this design . Your log peeling station sounds like it would be easier to make and more versitile. I can also envision it being useful for other tasks for making log furniture.

Offline WDH

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Re: Debarking wood for log furniture
« Reply #26 on: February 01, 2014, 08:42:15 PM »
You could hang all kind of stuff on it  ;D.
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

Offline Ax- man

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Re: Debarking wood for log furniture
« Reply #27 on: May 18, 2014, 10:30:31 AM »
Hello again, it has awhile but I just thought I would pass this little tip on.

I didn't reread the whole thread but if someone mentioned using an air hammer/ air chisel to debark a log I would like to say thank-you. I finally gave it a try  and it does work pretty good on some of the logs I have tried. It doesn't make a nice clean cut like a draw knife but it does speed up the process and does the bulk of the work that can be finished with a draw knife .  The chisels with a slight curve in them work a little better than a straight chisel.

I tried the air chisel to debark some small short turning pieces for my new to me lathe to save time during the roughing phase and make it a little safer . I worked good for that so I tried it on some longer logs and worked OK for that also. There are many variables involved in different species of wood and how tightly the bark is adhered to the wood. If you can control the air chisel with both hands you can peel the bark off in long strips, lifting the bark away from knots as you go.


Offline m wood

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Re: Debarking wood for log furniture
« Reply #28 on: May 21, 2014, 07:59:32 PM »
very interesting axman.  I just aquired an air chisel for some automotive work.  I must give that a try some day.
I am Mark
80 acre woodlot lots of hard and soft
modified nissan 4x4/welding rig
4x4 dodge plow truck
cat 931b track loader
Norwood mark IV
4' peavy
6' peavy
stihl 034
"her" wildthing limber saw
ALL the rustic furniture  woodworking stuff
check out FB


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