iDRY Vacuum Kilns

Sponsors:

New (to me) 2100CD

Started by SteveinUT, November 17, 2014, 06:29:59 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

SteveinUT

So, I got a free 2100CD yesterday. I tore some of it apart and degreased it, which it needed badly. It's only showing 55 PSI on my compression gauge, unfortunately. So far, from what I've been reading via the search feature, this saw is generally regarded as solid and worth the rebuild, or am I off base here? I don't mind putting money into a saw that is a solid performer.

I've been looking for parts and I'm pretty much coming up snake-eyes except for on Fleabay. Anyone know of a source that has some old stock of parts? So far I'm thinking carb rebuild, it needs a chain tensioner, the top cover is pretty ugly, I need a replacement K&N for it (it has the velocity stack and a pretty buggered-up filter).

PS: If anyone knows the part number to the K&N I'd be grateful! 

 
-Steve
Malo periculosam libertatem quam quietum servitium
RIP TSgt Jason Norton and SSgt Brian McElroy- KIA 22 Jan 06, near Taji, Iraq. You will never be forgotten.

038 Magnum, 2100CD, 460 Rancher, 10-10A, and a few more...

celliott

Free 2100? Lucky! Nice score!
Definitely worth the rebuild IMO.

Try chainsawr for parts- http://store.chainsawr.com/search?q=2100cd
Chris Elliott

Clark 666C cable skidder
Husqvarna and Jonsered pro saws
265rx clearing saw
Professional maple tubing installer and maple sugaring worker, part time logger

sawguy21

Don't start throwing parts and time at it without pulling the muffler and having a look at the piston and cylinder. 55psi ain't gonna cut it, you need at least 125. Also check for play in the bottom end, if sloppy this beast is probably not worth spending time on. A healthy 2100 is a real workhorse though.
old age and treachery will always overcome youth and enthusiasm

SteveinUT

Thanks guys! Yeah, 55 PSI definitely won't cut it. I did pull the muffler and the piston actually looks good except for about a 1/2" wide strip of marring on the exhaust side of the piston, looks like a carbon slurry. The rest of the piston looks perfect, and when the piston is below the port I can see the cylinder walls look nice and shiny clean as well. Sorry the pic sucks. It's dark in the shop, even with the lights on. So, I was trying to shine light through the port and take the pic with my phone. Best I could do...



 
-Steve
Malo periculosam libertatem quam quietum servitium
RIP TSgt Jason Norton and SSgt Brian McElroy- KIA 22 Jan 06, near Taji, Iraq. You will never be forgotten.

038 Magnum, 2100CD, 460 Rancher, 10-10A, and a few more...

SteveinUT

Anyone know if the cylinder gasket for a 2101 will fit a 2100? I can't seem to find any 2100 base gaskets, but I'm finding quite a few 2101 gasket sets.
-Steve
Malo periculosam libertatem quam quietum servitium
RIP TSgt Jason Norton and SSgt Brian McElroy- KIA 22 Jan 06, near Taji, Iraq. You will never be forgotten.

038 Magnum, 2100CD, 460 Rancher, 10-10A, and a few more...

JohnG28

You could take out the base gasket and use some permatex, I'm sure that saw could use a compression bump anyway!  :D Sorry, I can't tell you about the 2101 one though.
Stihl MS361, 460 & 200T, Jonsered 490, Jonsereds 90, Husky 350 & 142, Homelite XL and Super XL

sawguy21

John, a 2100 definitely does not need a compression bump. ;D
old age and treachery will always overcome youth and enthusiasm

JohnG28

I was being very sarcastic!!  :D ;D I'd imagine that's about the last thing you'd want on one of those beasts without a decomp!
Stihl MS361, 460 & 200T, Jonsered 490, Jonsereds 90, Husky 350 & 142, Homelite XL and Super XL

SteveinUT

Thanks guys. I pulled the cylinder today and good news- the inside of cylinder looks immaculate. The piston rings are shot though. They are about flush with the piston, giving me the low compression, or at least that's my guess. The marking on the piston that I took a pic of above is very faint, but I can barely feel it with my fingernail, so I think I'll order one of the cheap piston kits off Fleabay. They are only $29 or so.

As far as honing my cylinder, what is the overall consensus on Flex-Hones? I have used them as a gunsmith for honing shotgun chambers, but I've never used one in an engine cylinder. They aren't cheap, unfortunately. 
-Steve
Malo periculosam libertatem quam quietum servitium
RIP TSgt Jason Norton and SSgt Brian McElroy- KIA 22 Jan 06, near Taji, Iraq. You will never be forgotten.

038 Magnum, 2100CD, 460 Rancher, 10-10A, and a few more...

sawguy21

You will wreck the finish using a hone. Unusual to have only worn rings on a two stroke if the piston and cylinder are in good shape unless somebody previously installed junk after market parts.
old age and treachery will always overcome youth and enthusiasm

SteveinUT

So, just replace the piston and rings and press on?  ???
-Steve
Malo periculosam libertatem quam quietum servitium
RIP TSgt Jason Norton and SSgt Brian McElroy- KIA 22 Jan 06, near Taji, Iraq. You will never be forgotten.

038 Magnum, 2100CD, 460 Rancher, 10-10A, and a few more...

sawguy21

As long as the cylinder does not show signs of wear, yes.
old age and treachery will always overcome youth and enthusiasm

SteveinUT

OK, sounds good! That'll make this even easier.
-Steve
Malo periculosam libertatem quam quietum servitium
RIP TSgt Jason Norton and SSgt Brian McElroy- KIA 22 Jan 06, near Taji, Iraq. You will never be forgotten.

038 Magnum, 2100CD, 460 Rancher, 10-10A, and a few more...

CTYank

How's the bottom end look & feel? Any noticeable up/down play at the rod big end? It's obviously had lots of runtime.

I've heard from experts that a 2-stroke piston should last through 2 sets of rings. Maybe yours was sucking some dust through questionable filter to speed up ring wear? Your bore plating is only a couple thousandths thick; suggest you not scratch it up.

Are those cylinder fins painted black-ish, or in need of a severe cleaning? Trapped heat could be a real wear-factor.

Wish I could help on base gasket. Good Luck.
'72 blue Homelite 150
Echo 315, SRM-200DA
Poulan 2400, PP5020, PP4218
RedMax GZ4000, "Mac" 35 cc, Dolmar PS-6100
Husqy 576XP-AT
Tanaka 260 PF Polesaw, TBC-270PFD, ECS-3351B
Mix of mauls
Morso 7110

SteveinUT

Thanks! You could be right about the trapped heat. The black on the cylinder fins was a greasy film. Had to soak the cylinder in engine degreaser and scrub with a stiff-brush, but it's clean now. The pic of the cylinder sucks, but the entirety of the inside is smooth with no grooving or missing plating. The marring on the piston does catch a fingernail, but barely. Here is a pic of the inside of the cylinder and the only wear spot on the piston:



  

 
-Steve
Malo periculosam libertatem quam quietum servitium
RIP TSgt Jason Norton and SSgt Brian McElroy- KIA 22 Jan 06, near Taji, Iraq. You will never be forgotten.

038 Magnum, 2100CD, 460 Rancher, 10-10A, and a few more...

ZeroJunk

QuoteAs far as honing my cylinder, what is the overall consensus on Flex-Hones?

Some good guys use them and some good guys don't. And, they argue about it.
You can accomplish the same thing with some fine grit sand paper and your finger.

SteveinUT

Glad to hear I don't need to hone it. I didn't feel like buying a hone that I might not use again for years. I have a 12ga Flex-Hone, but it's just a tad under-size! Hahahaha!!!

The inside of the cylinder is smooth as a baby's backside, and shiny too, although you can't tell from the pics.
-Steve
Malo periculosam libertatem quam quietum servitium
RIP TSgt Jason Norton and SSgt Brian McElroy- KIA 22 Jan 06, near Taji, Iraq. You will never be forgotten.

038 Magnum, 2100CD, 460 Rancher, 10-10A, and a few more...

ZeroJunk

If it is slick and has no transfer you don't need to do anything to it.

Al_Smith

Here's my observation based on what I can see in the picture .It ate something,passed it up the transfers and spit it out the exhaust port .

Whatever it was got hammered on the up stroke of the piston,nicked the top of the piston and hammered the ring lands trapping the rings or at least the bottom ring.Not as bad as one might think.

Free up the rings which might take a razor blade on the top of the ring,carefully and remove the rings .Take something like finger nail file and file to ring groove so the ring expand freely .Lightly sand the gouge in the piston ,fine sand paper,Scotch green pads or some thing .A low spot usually  won't hurt you .A high spot ,breaks the surface tension of the oil and will .

Ignore the Amsoil crowd and run it on 32 to 1 oil .Once the rings are free my bet it will jump the comp .If it doesn't new rings will .

Al_Smith

Now the gasket .If the old one is not torn or screwed up just stick it back on .If it is messed up just cut a new one.Any robust paper will work.The pastboard from a beverage pack,Mt Dew or Budweiser work equally well ,Fact the cover from Playboy or National Geographic likewise . Just find something of the same thickness as the original gasket .Most Stihls BTW are 20 thou thick. Never measured a Husky so don't know on that one .

Contrairy to popular belief they don't have to be perfect it every minute detail to run and run well .I've fixed sicker cats than that that are still running years after I operated on them .Go for it . 8)

HolmenTree

Steve, with the p/c off you better keep going further into the bottom end. Check the up/down play of the crank on both sides, any ammount of play should call for new main bearings.
Possibly a piece of  bearing  cage did that damage to the piston. You were saying the KN filter was pretty rough, probably lots of dirt ingestion where dirt has collected in the bearing races and caused the balls to skid and develop flat spots  resulting in heat and increased load breaking the bearing cage .
New main bearings and top connecting rod bearings with new seals are easy and cheap enough to change , but the lower connecting rod bearing is not so cheap. Look close at that bearing and check for fractures in the bearings cage. If no cracks and all the bearings are still there you may have got off lucky. 
Making a living with a saw since age 16.

isawlogs

  I sure would like to know how a peice of a lower end bearing from a saw can come to the top and do the scare on the piston, please enlignten me  :P  Not that I am saying to not go any further in the inspection of the saw, just asking  ???

  I would follow Old Al's  ;D advice and see what happens.  :)
A man does not always grow wise as he grows old , but he always grows old as he grows wise .

   Marcel

Nate379

That Chainsawr site is pretty good.

Was looking for a top cover for the 2100 for a customer, I guess been a saw sitting at the shop for a few years.  I about poo'd a bit when I saw the $150 price tag.

HolmenTree

Ok isalogs enlighten me how a piece of bearing "can't" get up onto the top of the piston  ???

To repeat myself...... with enough heat and load the thin bearing cage in the lower connecting rod bearing or main bearings for all that goes,  can break up and swirl around the crankcase then get blown up the transfers into the combustion chamber.
On the way out the exhaust port it can clip the roof edge of the port and take out a piece of the edge of the piston which then can put the scuff in the front side of the piston. Go back and look at the OP's pic of the piston.
He's gone this far into the engine why ignore checking out the bottom end , especially seeing what happened to the piston? :D
Making a living with a saw since age 16.

sablatnic

Agree with HT, could be a piece of bearing cage. But take a look at the muffler too, and shake it, to hear if it rattles. I have seen parts of defective mufflers being sucked back into cylinders with sad results!

Thank You Sponsors!