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Old Corley Mill

Started by J_T, May 02, 2003, 09:41:19 PM

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Ron Wenrich

Lead is a tricky thing.  I had one mill that needed 3/8" in order for it to run right.  I don't even know what my lead is on this mill.  I can make adjustments in sawing and filing to compensate for any lead or saw problems.  

You will also see a difference in lead with the weather.  For frozem wood it is often best to take some lead off.  Some of the more woolier woods may need more lead.

Another factor is your swaging of teeth.  As you file your teeth back, you'll have to swage your teeth or your saw might rub.  Some of this is also specie dependent and how far back you want to file your teeth.
Never under estimate the power of stupid people in large groups.

Norm

Glad to hear your getting some time in with your mill Unclebuck. Nothing more satisfying than working hard on a project and having it turn out so well.

Norm

Frickman

Ron,

Are you saying that you sometimes file your saw "not square" to compensate for problems with the mill? If so, you'd fit in well around here. Growing up I heard both grandfathers and all their friends talk about "filing lead into the saw". When I started sawing I did the same thing. I had nothing but problems. Read Casey Creamer's book, lined up my mill, and started filing square. Haven't had a problem since. Now we run carbide, 9/32" bits that are made locally. The oldtimers around here think I'm doing it all wrong, but the mill runs and saws great.          

I don't want to get your dander up, you just sound like alot of fellows around here. If it works for you then more power to you. Try a set of carbide bits sometime, you might not want to go back to steel.

Frickman
If you're not broke down once in a while, you're not working hard enough

I'm not a hillbilly. I'm an "Appalachian American"

Retired  Conventional hand-felling logging operation with cable skidder and forwarder, Frick 01 handset sawmill

Pretend farmer when I have the time

Ron Wenrich

There are 2 ways of filing lead into a saw.  One is to go in an angle.  That pulls the blade in that direction.  This is the method used by most oldtimers.  (I'm starting to fit that category)  :D

One that I use more often is just to touch up the sides with a file.  I find as I file back through the teeth and depending on species, I need to "adjust" my lead.  If the saw is leading in, touch up on the log side.  Leading out, touch up on the board side.  I'm only talking a light file stroke.

I find that it differs with each saw.  Some saws run great, some don't.  Same mfg, same saw doc, same teeth, etc.  But, different steel and different kiln times.

I'm running a vertical edger, so you can't saw off line.  Too much in one direction and you have a mark on your next board.  Too far in the other direction and the edging strip remains on.  Any correction in the next board wiil give you a miscut.  

I looked into carbide, but can't get over the price thing.  I can hardly get through a set of regular steel teeth without hitting trash.  The cost differential is too great.  I save money by not using chrome.  Don't the carbide shatter when hitting trash?

Carbide is 4 times greater than steel.  Chrome is 50% higher.  
Never under estimate the power of stupid people in large groups.

Frickman

Ron,

I get 9/32" BDF carbide bits made locally for about $2.85 / each. They cost less to have retipped. They must be good because most of the mills around here run them. The place that makes them is called The Sharp Shop, in Connellsville, PA. They specialize in sharpening for the lumber industry. The last box of steel bits I bought were $1.10 / each, so the carbide are only a little more.

Yes, the carbide shatters when you hit tramp metal or embedded stones. We watch where our logs come from and thus don't hit much. If you buy logs as gatewood then you might have to scan the logs.

The carbide saves me more in sharpening time than they cost to install. Sometimes we run several days without sharpening, abd then maybe just a touchup. The bits are very easy to sharpen with a grinder. My right hand man grinds them as he is good with things like that. I don't have to swage them, so that is one more variable I don't have to deal with.

Frickman
If you're not broke down once in a while, you're not working hard enough

I'm not a hillbilly. I'm an "Appalachian American"

Retired  Conventional hand-felling logging operation with cable skidder and forwarder, Frick 01 handset sawmill

Pretend farmer when I have the time

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