butcher block counter top

[sandsawmill14]

my first glue up / screw up (time will tell i guess) :D  is a 6' x 2' counter top and i am wondering if polyurethane will be ok to seal it or if it needs different what do you guys think ???  i havent got pics yet but will later tonight or tomorrow

[yukon cornelius]

I am no finishing expert but we use poly on all our tables and such. the guys here will point you in the best direction though.

[brandonward6]

lowes sells an oil and bees wax polish that works great would recommend an oil and no stains or urathanes or varnishes would go with an all natural food safe finish. if you are working in a workshop where its cool , I would take it inside and let the wood acclimate or you will get separation, learned that the hard way

[beenthere]

If it is a countertop to be used with knives like a butcherblock, then no poly IMO.
You will want something that won't scratch or chip from knife use.
The end use will dictate the finish.

Look forward to the pics.

brandonward
If you click on your forum name, you will go to where you can put your location in your profile. It will help when reading your posts, as I am sure when you read others' posts, their location helps you.

[sandsawmill14]

it is going to be just a counter top if this one works out the next one will be about 10' long with the sink in it. any cutting will be done on a cutting board. but it will get wet and stuff spilled on it, just wondering what would prevent staining and be food safe ???

[Carpenter]

You can get a nice finish for your counter tops with polyurethane.  Urethane is one of the three main varnish resins used, so polyurethane is basically a varnish.  It is distinguished from other varnishes because it is one of the toughest available.  Some people complain about it looking like a film of plastic over the wood, but basically all the film finishes are in the end a layer of plastic over the wood.  Polyurethane however in my experience sometimes flakes off, I think this is due to it often being too thick in the can and applied too thick, and as it is a very hard tough resin I think it doesn't flex with the wood and so can flake off eventually.  That being said, I've finished a lot of woodwork with polyurethane with good results.  I saw a guy on a you-tube video do a wet sanded polyurethane finish that I have been meaning to try.  He mixed the poly with oil 50/50 from what I recall, and wet sanded it.  The wet sanding fills the pours of the wood, he was demonstrating this on an oak table, and mixed with the oil, would give a longer open time, and prevent a super thick finish, which is what gives the polyurethane a plastic look.  So, I think he may be on to something.  From what I've read also, most wood finishes, if not all wood finishes commercially available now, are food safe after they cure.  So, the "food safe" finish recommended for butcher blocks and such, is mostly marketing. 

[Kbeitz]

I was told the best is two part epoxy clear coat.

[sandsawmill14]

 

 

heres what it looks like  havent sanded or sealed it yet but will work on it more tonight

[21incher]

looks good. Tule peak knows alot about finishing counters with epoxy. You may want to ask him. I used poly on the butcherblock tops that I made and it is standing up good.

[WDH]

Nice ambrosia maple.  I would use 100% pure tung oil mixed 50:50 with clear 100% mineral spirits. 

[tyb525]

I'm on the penetrating oil wagon. I personally don't like film finishes like poly for a food contact surface, because if and when that film is broke through, moisture and bacteria can get trapped between it and the wood. "Penetrating" oils don't make as much of a film on the surface, and they soak into the wood more or less. I like walnut oil, tung oil, and beeswax+mineral spirits in no particular order.

[sandsawmill14]

thanks guys i will look into it.
WDH i have tung oil finish but couldnt get pure tung oil without ordering off the net. would it work or is it toxic after it dries ???

[WDH]

Tung oil finish is an oil + varnish mix, usually linseed oil, not tung oil.  It is not the same as the 100% pure tung oil, and yes, you do have to order it off the net.  Here is where I get it. 

http://www.realmilkpaint.com/products/oils/tung-oil-wood-finishes/

[sandsawmill14]

ok thanks is that the same mineral spirits you use to thin paint ???

[WDH]

Yes, but must be the clear 100% mineral spirits, not that milky paint thinner stuff.  The milky stuff will not work. 

[sandsawmill14]

  thanks im new to this finishing / woodworking stuff and really appreciate the help

[WDH]

It the most challenging part of woodworking. 

[lowpolyjoe]

good info in here.  thanks for sharing

[redprospector]

:D
It the most challenging part of woodworking.

It is the most challenging part of woodworking, but it's addictive. After you make the decision to put on a good hand finish, about half way through you may say, "What was I thinking?".  :D When it's all done, and you step back and look at it...You're ready for the next one.  ;D

[sandsawmill14]

wdh how much of the tungs oil will i need to buy ??? 1 counter is 6' long 2' and the other is about 10' x2.   what is the difference in the dark tungs oil and the regular? does it need to be waxed after im finished to seal or im i done when it stops taking the oil ?  i checked the website but had these questions before i ordered

[WDH]

Since you can re-oil every 6 months or so to renew the finish, probably best to get a gallon.  Mixed with clear mineral spirits at 1:1, that should last you for a long time.  I am not sure about the dark tung oil, never used it.  I suspect it will give a darker finish.  Waxing with a food safe wax like beeswax should really finish it off well. 

[sandsawmill14]

ok thanks  i will get it on the way

[LeeB]

The oil finish will provide little if any water protection for a countertop with a sink in it. Something to consider.