Watcha Makin'?

[Magicman]

Maybe not needed but I would add trimmer studs beneath the headers that the roof posts rest on.

[Wlmedley]

After looking at my pictures I see what you mean,Lynn. I will add a couple 2x4s under each post.One thing I have is plenty of lumber.Thanks for the observation.

[Hilltop366]

Putter build, A couple of ideas that may help.

To get a symmetrical pattern draw half then fold in half and cut along line.

To use the pattern shade the edge and stick it to another piece of paper and photo copy then stick the copy to your wood for cutting out. By not tracing the pattern to the wood you increase accuracy and the paper will give you a easier line to see.

Save the original for a master copy to be photo copied again if needed.

[aigheadish]

Thanks Hilltop. I tried the fold in half trick last time and I've found that even if my pattern is symmetrical my cuts on the real thing are not, as well as sanding the thing down has presented problems. Had I taken more time to get my pattern just right, then cut the real thing more precisely on the bandsaw, leaving minimal sanding it would have helped... So, I'm saying the lack of symmetry is my own impatience! I'll also show another picture showing the best example of my issue.

I did save the patterns both times now! 

[DWyatt]

Fun little project from this past weekend. Helped a friend of mine build a tractor shed/toy storage for his son that will be 4 in a couple weeks. This thing is huge to fit all his tractors and the whole design basis was centered around fitting his combine. He took it home and is going to paint it to match his real shop.

[aigheadish]

That's a neat idea DWyatt, painting it to match his shop will be a nice touch.

[aigheadish]

For my putter, I request some assistance from all you brilliant minds...

I just bought a kit with a bunch of threaded inserts, that I'd like to use, to attach the shaft of the putter to the putter head. I've never used these kinds of inserts, so I'm pressing my luck a bit (20 bucks worth!). 

My initial thought was to bury an insert into the putter head, through the bottom where it will eventually be hidden under a brass plate. Next, I wanted to try to tap some threads onto the putter shaft, but I have a feeling my measurements didn't work out the way I expected. The putter shaft is .370" (presumably give or take and I can sand a bit of material off it). The insert is 3/8" or .375". I don't seem to have a tap that is appropriate in my HF tap kit. I may be able to get close and while I'm not terribly opposed to ruining the shaft in a failed attempt I figured maybe I should ask you guys before I try. 

I also can't find any threaded rod that comes close enough, size-wise, to epoxy into the inside of the shaft, so that seems like it's out of the question too... 

Maybe I'm missing something? Any good thoughts from you pros? I'm not opposed to scrapping the threaded insert idea, and I like the sturdiness of the set screw but I'd rather not see that from the outside of the club. Maybe I could bury that in the hole in the bottom of the putter too? I'm afraid that glue or epoxy may not be the right solution, though I imagine that's how they get them to stick on a lot of factory made putters.

[doc henderson]

If it were me, I would load up my good and failed parts and show up at a golf store or pro shop.  Lucky for me I do not play or care to play golf.  you surely can find a good ol boy or gal and ask how they do things.  I think it may be nice to finish it in what ever tried and true way they do it.  there is also you tube etc.  After all the years it has been done, might learn a thing or two there.  I think it was @Larry that posted both standard and metric wood taps.  I bought a set of 9 but have not used them.

[Wlmedley]

Made a little more progress on my well curb today.Had the guy I'm building it for look at it to make sure it's what he had in mind.He liked it so that's a good thing.Next thing will be roof which when I get it done he is going to order metal to match his house and barn.I won't make much on this job but I enjoy the challenge.

[Old Greenhorn]

<sub>OK, lets start with some basic questions:
What are the thread sizes on these threaded inserts?
 What KIND of inserts are they exactly?
 I assume these inverts have female threads, correct?
 What is the material the shaft is made from?
 Is the shaft hallow?


If this were a driver I wouldn't have a clue, but since it is a putter, the shock loading SHOULD be fairly low (or, you picked the wrong club  ). So a  1/4-20UNCF thread might do the trick here.
 I use the inserts that RiteLeg sells which are made to drive into wood and they take a 1/4-20 screw. They have worked quite well for me. If you could epoxy a 1/4-20 stud inside your shaft and put a counterbore in the top of the putter head to accept the outside diameter of the shaft that might work. But let's see what answers you have to the above questions. This s solvable, I'm quite sure.</sub>

[aigheadish]

Thanks guys.

I have an assortment of inserts, the one I planned to use is a 3/8-16. This is the assortment:



The shaft is steel and hollow. I'm guessing but I'd say there is only about 1/16" of meat to work with, but it may have some wiggle room length-wise, meaning I could cut it a bit shorter if needed, maybe only an inch or so.

I'm going to have to go through my supplies because first thing I thought of this morning was welding a bolt to the shaft and grinding it down to smooth. Not sure if that works.

This is what it looks like, the shaft does not fit inside the insert but I could sand it down a bit.

[dougtrr2]

I am not sure the threaded insert is the way to go.  How are you going to index the shaft to the putter head? I am thinking of tightening up plumbing fittings.  How many times is the elbow you are tightening not quite tight enough, but you can't make another full turn?

But to offer input to your problem.  First, measure the inside diameter of the shaft.  Then take a bolt and measure the diameter at the root, or bottom of the thread.  Compare those two numbers.  That is how much metal will be left after cutting the threads on the outside of the shaft.  I would probable try to fill it with JB weld to beef it up.

A better solution might be to turn down a portion  of a bolt or threaded rod  to fit inside the shaft and then epoxy or loctite it in place. I would lean toward using a grade 5 or 8 bolt over a threaded rod.  Not as much for the strength as the accuracy of the threads.

Doug in SW IA

[Old Greenhorn]

Austin, do I see a bend on the end of that shaft? If so, you are going to have to register the shaft with the head to present the correct angle on the club head. If not, then Nevermind.
 You have a tough row to hoe here because you are trying to put a 3/8 thread inside a 3/8 OD shaft. The math doesn't work well for you here. As Doug suggested, turning down the thread to slip inside that shaft would be the way to go, with some epoxy I am thinking. Since you have a headed insert, it will have to be counterbored into the club head. I don't think high quality threads matter here as much as having some king of square shoulder where the shaft meets the club, this gives you the rigidity you want and will allow it to make tight. Also I'd suggest testing one of those inserts on a piece of wood the same species. They can be tricky to find the right drill size and you need a good clean hole.
 If you had access to a metal lather I would make a fitted plug with the thread on one end and a press fit into the shaft on the other with a ring shoulder between the two. It's a putter, you don't need a lot of strength but you do want that rigidity to transfer the energy to your stroke. I would really consider using the 1/4-20 rather than the 3/8-16.
 I'm sure you will come up with something.

[aigheadish]

Thanks fellows!

I'll take what you've said into consideration and make some decisions based on availability. Yes there's a bend and my thought was to get it close and secure as I could, then get back to the epoxy or jb weld or g flex...

I kind of do have access to a metal lathe at work and I could probably talk a guy into making me a custom threaded rod of sorts but I'm not sure I'm comfortable with that, though it sounds like other people at work are...

[aigheadish]

Another lesson learned...

I started with a quite small drill bit at about 20 degrees. It worked well, so I stepped up bits until I got to a half inch spade bit and drilled all the way through. This was a mistake. I should have only drilled, through the bottom, until there was 3/8" of material still on top of the putter, if that makes sense (insert through the bottom, where it is never exposed to the top part of the putter like seen, in reverse [hex head down] , below), then drill only a hole big enough for the bolt/shaft, which I'll hopefully weld into the shaft, to go through.

I tried the insert (even with soap) at 1/2 inch and it was tough going, likely because the insert is an inch long. Bubinga is pretty hard, so it's nerve wracking to try to tap the wood (but I didn't try a real tap). I was hoping a 5/8" spade bit was just big enough to add some epoxy and be good, it was much too big as seen below...

Attempt #2.1 Somehow, this time, my ball grabber was much more narrow than the previous one. I cleaned my template up considerably but goofed, somehow on grabber width. It should still work, but barely, and it'll take some shaping finesse. I decreased the height on 2.1 a bit, which is good, weight will again be an issue. I feel pretty good about this one working when I start drilling the insert hole. 



I'm hoping like this but now that I fit it I worry about the bolt being centered in the shaft properly. 

[Larry]

Rainy Sunday, I knew I wouldn't have visitors today so perfect to work in the shop without interruption.

I put some air dry bar stool legs in the sand pot on top the hot plate two days ago at 12%. Checked them this morning with my Wagner and it wouldn't give me a reading on the end in the sand where the tenon will be, so knew they were dry.

They are just rough turned so I finish turned the tenon and drilled for stretchers.

Next I built a table saw sled to saw tapered octagon chair legs on a production basis. Still a work in progress but the result looks good.

Popped the chair legs into the sand pot and they should dry quickly.

[Wlmedley]

I used a lot more lumber on this project than I thought.By the time I get board and batten on the walls I'll have used almost 300bf.Still don't really know how much to charge but thinking $500 isn't going to be quite enough =https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=353696][/url]

[tule peak timber]

Been busy the last few weeks, finishing up a large oak island top, doing a Sprinter camper van interior in gun stock walnut and cranking out cedar shelving for various clients.
The main thing I am working on is a large oak table 4' x 12' x 4" thick and its 4 oak benches. I chose marine grade torsion box construction, thick oak veneers and custom solid bronze adjuster feet. Even with the hollow construction on the legs, this thing is crane material. The client had me go through close to 100 shades of silver grey; taking 3 weeks and ended up having me go through one week of brown shades. In the end, clear UV oil was chosen! On the table top, we're starting with a 17' long x 6.5' wide oak slab at 3" thick. We're taking the top apart, removing the pith, re-sizing the thickness, turning the edges over to obtain 4" and resetting the pith again for one continuous piece of wood. One of the problems we're encountering is that there is a big dip in the center of the table, that we need to raise up to get a completely flat surface. Fun and games.

[aigheadish]

I like them chunky legs TPT!