I retired May 1, 2011 and picked up an LT15 in Indianapolis on May 2nd. I set up in an old gravel pit behind my house.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27386/LT15_SAWMILL_SITE.JPG) I found out it would be a lot more fun to have some shade so I decided to build a sawmill shed. With the help of Jim Rogers this is what I want to build.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27386/STAN_S_SAWMILL_SHED.jpg) I started this project by grading the shed site and installed pilings and concrete.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27386/IMG_0346.JPG) With the help of my grandson (and some concrete guys)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27386/SAWMILL_SHED_004.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27386/SAWMILL_SHED_006.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27386/SAWMILL_SHED_007.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27386/SAWMILL_SHED_CONCRETE.JPG)
Now all I need to do is cut the trees ,mill the beams and post, cut joints and assemble. Simple right.
Looking good !! I like it !
All good things take time! Very nice set up. All the best, Rob.
Nice work!
Where's the rocks?? Interesting way to put the footings in - around here there would be no way to dig that deep in less than a week WITH a backhoe! :D
Looks great!
I like this build. Good pics too! Keep them coming. :)
Here in southern Michigan the footings need to be at least four feet deep to be below frost line. I put the top of the square at 4 feet and the bottom at 5 feet. The tube and box were filled with concrete in one pour. Steel rerod inserted to tie base and pier then the steel post brackets installed with legs into the concrete. The sawmill posts will be screwed to these brackets. This should hold the building down during wind storms
Spectacular! Looks well thought and carried out. Here on my hill we have to use bedrock to our advantage. It ranges from 1 1/2 foot to 3 foot down. Nice for construction sometimes but not for drainage.
I also lose trees to blowdowns more than most because the roots can't get down far enough.
All the other farms around grow corn and hay crops. We grow rocks. Pick em all this year and next year more are sprouting. Darn frost heaves em right up.
We have a field that grows rocks. Just dug this one up this weekend. About four tons.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/14240/IMG_20150509_152347917.jpg)
stanwelch, looks great!!!
My mill is very jealous!!! :D :D :D
We do not have a rock on the whole farm... we have a few "sand stones" that were cut from local hills back around 150 years ago (which we still use!) but other than those... we can dig a hole where we want and only worry about hitting roots!!!
Your setup looks great!... remember to leave a later way to "add-on"... there is never enough space for drying lumber, farm equip, etc.... with a little "forethought", a later add-on (or four) can be a very easy task... if you do _not_ think about this now.... well, it might not be quite as easy! LOL!!!
Great pics... keep them coming!
-Dad2FourWI
dad
QuoteWe do not have a rock on the whole farm... we have a few "sand stones" that were cut from local hills back around 150 years ago (which we still use!) but other than those... we can dig a hole where we want and only worry about hitting roots!!!
I am glad you have where you are from cause by the above statement, I knew you were not from MO.
I think rocks is one of MO largest export products and we should have product forever.
I think here we can get by with a 24 inch frost line and I thought that is hard to dig. Looks great.
gww
gww, LOL!!! OK, I guess I will be happy with what I have.... (I don't have much choice!)
I do have to admit.... when it rains outside, we walk to the porch and wipe our feet (100% sand) and we are done... That is a lot better than a heavy clay soil !!!
So.... how much do you want for a load of rocks? :D :D :D Just kidding!
-Dad2FourWI
dad
QuoteI do have to admit.... when it rains outside, we walk to the porch and wipe our feet (100% sand) and we are done...
Now thats just mean :laugh:
gww
Soil types and ROCKS do have to be considered when choosing a site. I'm in a glacial outwash area with mostly mixed sand and gravel. The ground water table is quite shallow however. If I were to dig another 5 feet, I would be running into water.
After the slab was complete, I started cutting trees and moving logs to the mill site. The longest beams needed are three 24' 8x10s and four 16' 8x10s. I decided that it would be more efficient to add 10' to the sawmill bed than try to slide oak logs on the shorter 16' bed. Color doesn't quite match but close.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27386/Sawing_28__Beam.JPG) With the help of "Big John" I was able to turn logs and remove slabs. Working alone on a manual mill production records were not set. :D :D But hey, it is only a hobby.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27386/TURNING_28__OAK_BEAM.JPG) Using the Jim Rogers 5 gallon bucket sawdust catcher and a leaf blower the slab can be kept pretty clean
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27386/OAK_BEAM_28__SECOND_FACE.JPG)
That sawmill is sure happy now. When you decide to do something, you do it right!
You call that a shed?? I would call it an industrial spec'd warehouse!!
NICE WORK.
Bob
Stan its apparent your doing things right, awful nice to have a roof in the winter. I would make an effort to spread sawdust or wood chips where the logs will be stored if they will lay on the ground for even a short time. Grit and small stones are like poison to a band. Frank C.
Quote from: Dad2FourWI on May 12, 2015, 12:16:38 AM
gww, LOL!!! OK, I guess I will be happy with what I have.... (I don't have much choice!)
I do have to admit.... when it rains outside, we walk to the porch and wipe our feet (100% sand) and we are done... That is a lot better than a heavy clay soil !!!
So.... how much do you want for a load of rocks? :D :D :D Just kidding!
-Dad2FourWI
When it rains here, one has to swim to the door the first day or two. Then fight that heavy clay.
Nice build. Kind of hard for to think y'all guys up north have to build way extra due to winter. ;D All our extra has to go into framing for hurricane winds.
Very nice!
My shed pales by comparison
Last summer I got all the frame timbers cut, roof boards stacked and air drying and the pegs made. Seems easy to just cut the joints and away we go. Not so fast.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27386/IMG_4986.JPG) 16 braces to cut
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27386/IMG_4988.JPG) 4 scarf joints
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27386/IMG_4987.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27386/IMG_4989.JPG) fine tune scarf joint
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27386/IMG_5000.JPG) post and beam joints
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27386/IMG_4999.JPG) and peg holes
Well, Stanwelch, I see you are not given to doing things halfway ;) That shed will be awesome!
Thanks for the compliments guys !! Once most of the joints were cut I only had to wait for spring weather to move on to assembly of the frame
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27386/IMG_5005.JPG)Trial fitting bent
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27386/IMG_5006.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27386/IMG_5008.JPG) Looks like it might work
S
Heck, you got more work in your sawhorses then I do in most of my sheds. Look great, you have did a lot of work and I am glad you documented it and shared with us. Makes me want to do better.
gww
I got the idea for the sawhorses from Wranglerstar on youtube. I'm not sure where he got the idea. They work pretty good. I turned all the big beams and posts many times from horse to horse. They took the beating. The Logrite cant hook saved my back more times than I can count. Great tool !! Thanks Logrite 8) 8)
Now that most of the joinery is done, time to get the frame up.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27386/IMG_0553.JPG) Bent assembled and ready to set in place.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27386/IMG_5014.JPG) We have never tried this before. But with the help of Big John and BIL, got er done.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27386/IMG_5031.JPG) Screwing pier bracket to post.
Very cool. ;D ;D ;D
Bents two and three went up a lot faster and easier
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27386/image~11.jpg) this is all I have assembled so far. Will work on bent four that has three posts next week. Taking this week off to fish for salmon on Lake Michigan
Very nice! Thanks for taking the time to post pictures, stanwelch.
Catch a mess (Old saying).
I'll try, Danny. You all have fun at the ??????? Project I'd like to come sometime sounds like a blast
Keep the pictures comming. :)
My original intent was to saw rafters for the shed. The prints called for 16 pair of 4x8x16' rafters. After watching the set up of the first bent and taking pictures, my wife said "why don't you just buy trusses?
Smart woman😀😀 the next day I saw an auction of a builder that retired. Guess what he had for sale?
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27386/image~12.jpg) just the right size and 21 of them. Got them for a good price😀😀
Saved about twenty trees and another year at my pace ! Might have shade this summer 8) 8)
Sometimes you just get lucky. Old saying, I'd rather be lucky then good.
gww
Wow, of all the luck...
Congrats!
stanwelch, wow!!!! So nice!!!! My hat is off to you!
and those are some nice trusses!!! ... scissor-trusses I believe...
I just covered my debarker with a plastic bag... and I thought I heard my LT-40 sneeze! :D :D
We have a FROST warning here tonight... go figure! ... I so want my mill in a shed!!... but siding on the house comes first (at least my boss (er, wife) thinks so!!)
Keep the pics coming - really neat to watch!!!
-Dad2FourWI
Very nice, And I like John I have the same one 5410, Heat & AC, 80 horse 8)
Stan, I've been wondering how your project has been coming along.
All I can say is WOW! Very impressive.
I'm taking this week off to do some fishing
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27386/image~13.jpg) I plan to get back at the shed project next week :laugh:
Enjoy the week off!!!! Looks like you are having some success! ;D ;D
Cheers!,
-Dad2FourWI
Stan
Now that picture is just showing off.
Cheers
gww
Nice fish - 16-18#er?
Lordy. That there would feed us durn near a week.
Shucks ,he just got there that has to be his bait fish so he can get the big one.
Quote from: stanwelch on May 14, 2015, 11:20:46 PM
I'm taking this week off to do some fishing
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27386/image~13.jpg) I plan to get back at the shed project next week :laugh:
LOL, when you get a good hold down system for that mill that will accommodate a fish, then you will make a LOT of money!
It was a good decision to go fishing this week. We WON the tournament 8) 8) 8)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27386/image~14.jpg)
Wow!!! You are on a roll! I'm gonna get you a "Life Is Good!" t-shirt.
Now (after taxes) you have a little money to burn ;D.
Quote from: WDH on May 17, 2015, 08:45:57 PM
Now (after taxes) you have a little money to burn ;D.
You had to set the hook didn't you? :D
Money to burn is right. We fished 5 days and boat gas burned up any profits :D
Fish caught Friday were donated for a Saturday fish fry with proceeds going to the South Haven Boating Foundation which promotes boating and water activities for area youth. Saturday & Sunday fish were donated to the South Haven Steelheaders Club for a fish boil fundraiser later this summer.
About 70 boats participated this year. The start of the tournament is a shotgun start with all boats at the pier head. Pretty exciting to see that many boats power up and run all at one time 8)
Well time to get back to the shed project. One beam for bent four didn't survive the winter very well so I needed to replace it. Cut a nice red oak this morning, woke up the Lt15 and milled the 8x8x12' beam. Plan to cut the joints tomorrow and get the bent up.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27386/image~15.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27386/image~16.jpg)
Finished cutting all the joints and ready to assemble the last bent. Had a little crash moving the beams into position to fit to the posts
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27386/image~17.jpg) no harm done I'll use Big John to set everything up this time
Looking good!
... that oak beam looks HEAVY! :o :o
Be careful !
-Dad2FourWI
Not too heavy. My granddaughter helper can handle it
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27386/image~18.jpg) lol lol
Even on her tip toes...
Last picture made me :D!
Last bent is almost assembled
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27386/image~19.jpg)
Looking good, and heavy enough work to enjoy having big John close by to help. smiley_thumbsup
Looks good and yes, those beams are heavy. My left hand knows well. :embarassed:
Coming along very nicely, Mr. Stan.
Looks good you do nice work as my uncle that taught me the carpentry trade would say .
Looks like a up town job !!
Jim/Bruno
Pressed my grandson into service tonight. To give you an idea how long I've been working on this sawmill shed, this is he tonight
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27386/image~21.jpg) And this is when I started the piers in 2012
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27386/SAWMILL_SHED_004.jpg)
We got the last bent up. Three posts are defiantly more work than a two post bent
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27386/image~22.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27386/image~20.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27386/image~24.jpg) bents are up . Now I have to figure out how best to lift the top beams. Big John forks don't reach. Lt15 will happy to get back on the concrete
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27386/image~23.jpg)
Can you throw together a box that will go on your forks, and make it high enough to raise the beams? Something on the order of 4-5 pallets stacked, but fastened together. Set the beams on and get them high enough?
Good idea. I have a steel framed cart in my shop that might work I'll try tomorrow
I have encounter similar situations where you are just a little short of your lifting capability. My dad has some large/heavy duty 12" C-Clamps. We used the C-clamps to mount a piece of angle iron across the forks (closer to the tips). Then we clamped on the beam/truss (in our case steel) with it resting on the angle. The angle iron served as a resting place so that the beam clamps can be removed (as well as a means of final positioning). Then you lift and tip your forks to point straight up. Using the forks vertically serves to gain a couple extra feet. It is essential to have good clamps (not the cheap brittle cast ones) and we double and triple check that all is tight (very tight). It sounds a little unsafe, but we have managed lifting 300-400 lbs this way. To protect the person on the tractor the angle and the beam should be clamped to the underside of the forks. Sorry I don't have pictures.
If you are out by just a foot or two, you could also mill a couple beams to serve as ramps to drive the tractor onto.
And sometimes I've used both methods... My loader will only lift to 9 feet and I have lifted to 14. ::)
Thanks woodenhead. I like the ramp idea. I have some wedge cut offs from making the scarf joint that would work if I need them. I'm not so keen on the angle clamped to the forks -- sounds a little scary. Especially working alone. I think my wife would have a heart attack if she saw me doing that. :o :D
Great work!!!! Keep the pics coming!!
As for working slowly.... that is the only way we know on this farm!!! :D :D :D
Our wood is "well aged" before it finally has a roof and walls on! >:( >:(
-Dad2FourWI
I had a local welder modify a boom pole for the 3 point hitch, that will mount in my bucket. I used it to set the metal trusses in my building.
Quote from: scleigh on May 28, 2015, 10:42:19 PM
I had a local welder modify a boom pole for the 3 point hitch, that will mount in my bucket. I used it to set the metal trusses in my building.
I was thinking the same exact thing to write when I read this! :D
Sleigh--any pictures of the modified boom pole?
Below is a link to a truss boom attachment for a skid steer. I would imagine there is something available like it for your JD.
http://www.amhattachments.com/trussbooms-skidsteer.php
Regardless, this might give you ideas for making one if you went that direction.
Chains and ratchet type chain binders with the acme screws hold many things really tight. The forks I use for my bucket are held on that way. A bird mouth type cut out at the top of each fork slides over the leading edge of the bucket. Half the fork is under the bucket, the other half is sticking forward for use. A chain goes all the way from the back of the fork up around the back of the bucket and back toward the top of the fork and front of bucket. Chain binder goes from top of bird mouth and fork to the chain to tighten and suck everything up nice and tight. I've picked up and moved cars using this setup. I can see with blocking and chains and binders something could be put in place in your bucket without welding or cutting holes.
I hope this generates some ideas for you.
Thanks for the ideas guys. Here is what I came up with to add two feet to the lift height
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27386/image~26.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27386/image~25.jpg) now I can line up some help to set the beams. I think I can lift the trusses with this also. We'll see
There ya go - git'r done!
The top plate went into position pretty good. Had some trouble getting the braces installed. Will try a different method
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27386/image~27.jpg)
Looking great.
Got the braces installed. Held brace in place with the rope until I could lower the top plate
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27386/image~28.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27386/image~29.jpg)
Other side should go better
Making progress on the frame. Two braces and two 4 foot plate sections to go.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27386/image~30.jpg)
My mill is jealous and so am I I want to fish !!!! :'(
Stan:
I just found this story and read all four pages. Thanks for sharing it's looking good.
Jim Rogers
Project is looking good. Keep safe and keep posting the pics.
Casey Kennedy
Jim, I want to thank you for sharing your knowledge and skill regarding timber framing. As you can see I made the change from rafters to trusses in my frame. I still like the rafters but in the interest of time and wear on my body I'm going with the scissor truss. :D I also used your method you described in a post here to use a chain Mortisor to cut a scarf joint.
I plan to install a metal roof instead of the original shingles. Better looking, quicker shedding of snow load, less cost and time.
I'll keep plugging along. (Hope to get the mill under roof this summer)
Stan,
sorry for the delay in posting a picture of the boom pole, been working late and have'nt been on here much this week.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/33082/IMG_20150611_070437911.jpg)
There's a plate welded to the bottom of the boom pole that is bolted to the bottom of the bucket. The welder placed a bracket on the top of my bucket and a pin slides through it and the bracket on the pole.
Couldnt get my pic of the entire length to load, but it's just two lenghts of boom pole overlapped with some bracing along the top. It adds 13' to the height that my tractor can normally reach.
Thanks for the boom pole picture. Doesn't look too hard to fabricate
Or rear mount boom home made. It has 16' ft. reach and w/jib 22' ft.[ not shown.]
Also has plates for forks and a short boom.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/32340/IMG_05785B15D.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/32340/IMG_05775B15D.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/32340/IMG_05745B15D.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/32340/IMG_05765B15D.JPG)
I never done timber framing and certainly do not know anything about it. But I am impressed by people who have that skill. Just wondering if the timbers are cut and dry fitted before actually putting all the pieces together. I would hate to know I lifted a beam 12 ft in the air only to have to bring it back to the ground to make adjustments to a cut.
I did cut and assemble all the joints before trying to raise each piece. That works well for the bents because they are assembled and pinned on the ground before setting in place. The plates were fit to the posts on the ground before the posts were assembled into the bents. This worked pretty well except one plate didn't fit the first time I tried to place it on the post. It had rained and humidity was pretty high. I think the tenon on the post swelled. I set the plate back on the ground and used a ladder to reach the post tenon. I used a right angle grinder with a 36 grit wheel to shave the tenon down. It fit the second time 8) 8)
Stan, I don't think it would be very hard to fabricate one either. It's not used often, but comes in handy when you need to reach that high. My uncle used it to set the trusses on his building, which has 16' high walls. I'm currently using it to set 18' treated post on my saw shed.
Frame is pegged and ready for trusses. 8) 8)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27386/image~31.jpg)
Stan, This is a really neat project. Wish I had the time and patience to build like that.
Thanks scleigh, I have been following your shed project also. Though not a timber frame, your design is still a lot of planning and work. You are coming along fine. Keep the pictures coming.
Just like the old timers used to build. I'm lovin' it. Thanks for the pictures and taking the time to post and put them up.
I am loving it!
I made all the oak pegs two years ago. They were well dried, easy to drive.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27386/image~32.jpg) when I finished pegging the frame, this is what I had left :) I guess I could have made more say_what
I'd say you figured it just right.
I'm glad you didn't break two......
Jim Rogers
:D I was thinking the same thing. Murphy gave you a little break on this one. :)
If I had broken two, would I have to wait two more years? say_what
Quote from: stanwelch on June 20, 2015, 06:57:32 AM
If I had broken two, would I have to wait two more years? say_what
Well, you could have, but I'm sure you wouldn't want to do that..... green pegs work but not as strong as dry pegs.
Jim Rogers
This is one fine shed. If you come down here and build me one I bet it will be easier since you have all that experience now. ;D
Now you got me thinking...you wouldn't happen to have a spare edger :D
I don't know if I recommend a edger. They are very addictive. If you build it we might be able to find a edger over a little west of here.
That might be like kickin the hornet nest! :D :D :D
Took a couple weeks off but back at it again. I'll be setting roof trusses next but decided to prep roof deck boards first. I've been air drying boards I cut last year.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27386/image~34.jpg) this is the first of four stacks to process. I'll need about 200 eight foot boards to cover roof. Thanks to my grandson for his help.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27386/image~33.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27386/image~35.jpg) I visited WDH last February to see his impressive operation. His planer shed setup inspired me to buy this Grizzly spiral head planer. It works really well. Now if I only had an edger...
I was a Grizzly tech for 5 years...
Love the new Southbend line of tools...
Cool! A little inside information from Kbeitz! With the popularity of Grizzly tools on this forum I wish they were a sponsor.
Sweet!
Quote from: stanwelch on July 07, 2015, 05:15:10 AMNow if I only had an edger...
One never knows when one is not looking. :o
Part of my mill is made with Grizzlys stuff...
I also use a lot of there tools...
picture is Grizzly band saw wheels.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/17_inch_wheels.JPG)
Figured out how to install trusses. Used the cart I made to set the plates and the help of my neighbor. We placed 8 trusses on the tie beams and then tipped the starter end truss up to the brace. I used Simpson hurricane brackets to tie the truss to the plate. I want to make sure roof stays in place during high winds because the shed will open sided
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27386/image~36.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27386/image~37.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27386/image~38.jpg)
Looks good
Make sure you follow the bracing schedule on the trusses
They need to be braced well for snow and wind loads
Jim/Bruno
How about editing and turn that first picture in Reply #108.
Magic -- I'm not sure I know what you mean. The first picture looks just like I took it.
Bruno -- I don't have a formal bracing schedule, but I plan to nail boards between the braces to tie them together. Also, I will nail Simpson metal diagonal bracing straps following the Simpson guide.
Do you have any suggestions that I do additionally. I have not installed trusses since I built trusses for our garage in 1973. Things are probably better now. :D
What are going to use as roofing?
I'm going to put 1 x 8s on the trusses then felt paper then metal.
Crazy good stuff there man, you will be glad for the boards, open metal and rain is just about deafening. Your shed looks great, lots of planning and work for sure,
stanwelch
The first pic to us is upside-down. But likely you are viewing it on your iPad or similar, and that device will turn an upside-down pic the right way.
PC computers don't do that.
Not sure what the answer is... as in another thread, the pics are at 90°. All in the way the iPad or camera was held to take the pics. I think....
I opened this thread with my PC and can now see that the first picture is upside down. I have always used an iPad to post and view this site. Didn't know that iPad would autocorrect the picture rotation. Sorry :-\
now I need some help. I can't figure out how to rotate the picture in the post. Thanks beenthere for the info I'll be sure to check before rotation before posting future pictures.
You're welcome Stan.
I was guessing a bit as to what has been causing the many pics of members to be side-ways. I had a few that I took with my iPad and saw that they can be rotated in "my gallery".
Try going to your gallery and click on that pic using your PC. When the pic is enlarged, there should be a button below it that says "Crop and Rotate". Once it is right side up, then you'll need to edit that post (I think, but maybe the URL doesn't change and will be ok without editing the post).
Leads me to wonder what tag is on an iPad pic that allows it to know which is up/down.. that the PC cannot know the same thing..??
I would use 2x4 bracing a strong back run down the middle nailed or screwed to each truss.
An angle brace on each gable end .
W bracing nailed or screwed on top of the bottom cord of the truss on each side.
I used to set up garage packages for a lumber yard and thats how they had us do it for the codes in NH
Jim/Bruno
Thanks Bruno for the information. I plan to incorporate most if not all of these bracing techniques.
I have a question for anyone reading this regarding Roof Board Nail Pattern
I plan to use mostly cottonwood boards to cover the trusses 1x6 to 1x8 by 8 foot. I will stagger the seam line as I go up the roof. All of the boards have been air dried from 8 to 10% moisture measured after planing to 7/8" thickness. Boards are squared and trimmed to size (using my jointer and table saw--thus I can see the advantage of an edger :)). I am going to use other hardwood boards (oak,ash & cherry) on the starter and lower runs because I don't have enough cottonwood dried and I have all these other lower grade boards. Now the question-- I plan to put the possible cup side down and drive 2 nails about 3" apart near center of the width into each rafter on 24" centers. The idea is to allow movement with minimum cracking. Am I on the right track? Any better way to nail um down?
Remember, wood cups toward the bark. Kinda counter intuitive.
I wouldn't worry about the sheathing boards cracking, but instead nail so the boards stay flat as possible.
Movement of the board with the metal roofing nail is what you don't want much of, as that might elongate the nail hole for a leak.
So I think I'd suggest nailing each board about one inch from the edge, and one in the middle if you think it will reduce a hump from cupping.
The boards didn't cup too much during air drying. I was able to plane the boards flat with 2 to 3 light passes on a side. Will the boards that cupped during drying cup much after install on the roof?
Likely not if nailed down.
Got half of the trusses up this morning. I'll finish the bracing on these today and plan to get the other eight up tomorrow. Thanks to the help from my neighbor, we were able to get them installed in about 2 hours. Thanks goodness for cool temps and light winds 8)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27386/image~40.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27386/image~39.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27386/image~41.jpg)
Oh my, that looks good. :)
Very nice. Reminds me of the Parthenon.
:D Partha what?? Sounds Greek to me!! :D :D
That thing is stout.
I want one.
gww
:D Me too.
Ox and gww, you guys have to wait. Jake wants me to build him one first--unless...either of you guys have an EDGER?f :D :D :D
Jake only has two edgers now. The third one disappeared, suddenly.
Quote from: WDH on July 11, 2015, 08:43:52 PM
Jake only has two edgers now. The third one disappeared, suddenly.
::)
A man cannot keep up with three edgers :).
Quote from: WDH on July 11, 2015, 09:17:45 PM
A man cannot keep up with three edgers :).
I'm watching to see if a man can keep up with 1. :)
I hear that it can be done.
Finished the trusses today 8) 8) wahoo!!
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27386/image~42.jpg)
Tomorrow if it doesn't rain I'll move the mill back on the pad and cut the rafters for the gable end overhang.
smiley_thumbsup
If future generations keep a good roof on that building it'll be around for hundreds of years as well! Nice.
I see so many big beautiful barns around just falling in because of roof problems. Breaks my heart because I'd love to have one. I also understand this is a pretty poor area so money is always an issue. But sometimes it's the city folk who have the money but don't care about it because only "dumb, uneducated" people need or want barns. Ain't that something, now?!?
Ox
The farm I grew up on had the house and buildings at the end of a 10th of a mile private road. The people that bought it took down a perfetly good barn that wasn't even real close to the house cause they didn't like the looks of it. I raised a lot of bucket calfs in that barn and can't believe a guy wouldn't have wanted to keep it.
Differrent strokes for differrent folks.
gww
I used to be a brick and stone mason. I thought I was building for the ages. People will remodel on a whim, and it gets torn down and tossed out. It's a very good lesson. Everything that has a beginning has and end. Even brick and mortar are the expression of no more than a thought.
Be happy for no reason.
I added hurricane brackets to tie trusses to the plates
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27386/image~44.jpg)
And tie straps to the posts and plates. The strap wraps over the top and is nailed down
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27386/image~43.jpg)
The LT15 is back on the pad 8)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27386/image~45.jpg)
I'll keep the 10' extension on to see if I like the space to edge boards on this end . If I do, the next project may be a lean to :)
Fantastic. That's something to be proud of, that's for sure.
Looking good.
Strong. Excellent job.
Stan,that will help out alot.
Add the lean to , you can never have enough shed. We started out with a 30x30, filled that up, added a 15x30, now that's full .
Very nice I need one just like ... hope I can do good as job as you did.
rconkie,welcome to the forum. Whatcha got for a mill? What's all the lumber going to be used for?
I see square corners and sides that are plumb! Isn't that a crime against nature?
Looking real good. I am sure you will get many years of service and pleasure out of this structure. Keep the pictures coming.
Quote from: WV Sawmiller on July 16, 2015, 08:33:46 AM
I see square corners and sides that are plumb! Isn't that a crime against nature?
No that's the timber framing way of things.....
Jim Rogers
I made a lot of mistakes building this frame which I acknowledge and can expect from a novice without any training and experience. However, I was impressed how well the bents stood square and plumb by themselves. When I measured after all four bents were secured, the frame was within 1/4" over 30 feet. I said "close enough"
I'll be working on the roof deck next. I'm using red oak and cottonwood boards milled to 7/8 thick. Width varies from 8" to 6" by the 1/2 inch. I plan to use the same width the lengthwise on a row. I plan to start from the lower right corner (SE) above the sawmill. Oak boards will be placed first on the lower rows and then cottonwood on the upper half. I may use oak at the top few rows depending on my board count. I plan to align the starter row to overhang the rafter end by 1 1/2" and the gable end by 1 1/2 also.
Is this a good plan? I have not done this before. Any advice/suggestions are welcome :)
Quote from: stanwelch on July 17, 2015, 07:33:17 AM
I made a lot of mistakes building this frame which I acknowledge and can expect from a novice without any training and experience. However, I was impressed how well the bents stood square and plumb by themselves. When I measured after all four bents were secured, the frame was within 1/4" over 30 feet. I said "close enough"
My father would say your frame is built like a rocket launch platform.
Quote from: stanwelch on July 17, 2015, 08:42:21 AM
Is this a good plan?
Good plan but check alignments every so often. Just in case you start to gain on one end. And compensate for that by checking your lumber and see if you have some which are a bit narrower, and use them on the end that gains. Or rip one to remove the gain and start straight again. A small gain shouldn't be noticeable from underneath when all done.
Jim Rogers
Good start on the roof today. We should finish tomorrow. Shade is a good thing :)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27386/image~48.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27386/image~46.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27386/image~47.jpg)
Looks good but be careful. We do not need another of us broken up.
Stan,
You are doing just a fine job on that shed 8).
Sawmill shed...
No way, thats built better and better looking than a lot of houses I have seen.
Nice job...when you get done with that 1...I have a little job for you.
Regards Chris
Thanks guys.
Magic - with age comes wisdom. I'm doing the ground work and have hired two young Amish men to do the elevation work much easier on the knees and back ;D
Now that right there is a nice mill shed. 8) 8) 8) 8) Good job.
Looks absolutely fantastic,,
Very nice..... well done!!!
Finished the roof Yesterday morning. Two and a half Amish men 10.5 hours to install 200 deck boards and all the metal. They did an excellent job.
LT 15 is in the shade and dry. Happy Happy Happy 8) 8)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27386/image~50.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27386/image~51.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27386/image~49.jpg)
So nice.
Two foreign concepts there. Cover and level ground. I can't imagine.
Now thats a shed.
The shed turned out great. Now the mill will likely stay orange versus turning pinkish.
Excellent !!! The Logrite looks happy too. ;D
Quote from: Magicman on August 22, 2015, 05:06:35 PM
The Logrite looks happy too. ;D
I had to search a while to spot it.
Yup, it is visible in two of the pictures. ;D
The sticker rack is happy, too ;D.
I see that Jim Rogers' sawdust bucket is alive and well. ;D
I tried to use a bucket once, but I would need a 20 gallon bucket for what I saw. :D That is a really nice sawmill shed. :)
Quote from: Dave Shepard on August 22, 2015, 08:42:49 PMI tried to use a bucket once, but I would need a 20 gallon bucket for what I saw.
Didn't work for me either, but of course I am not sawing in a shed and always leave the sawdust at the customer's location. That plus the slabs and lumber. ;D
I am not even going to say it :D.
Quote from: WDH on August 22, 2015, 08:48:33 PM
I am not even going to say it :D.
Please don't. :'(
You guys have sharp eyes. Buy, no one mentioned the Logrite Pickaroon :)
I saw the little blue rascal hanging there.....
I left the pegs long near the sawmill to hang things. Especially the peavey-- I would lay it down somewhere and had to look for it when needed or else trip on it. Now it has a "place"
I also saw the blue pickaroon. I like your idea of "hanging places". :)
I will be back to sawin' um and leavin' um next week. ;D
Quote from: Magicman on August 22, 2015, 08:23:28 PM
I see that Jim Rogers' sawdust bucket is alive and well. ;D
I noticed that right off. But I'm having a hard time seeing the logrite.
Jim Rogers
PS looks great Stan.
Quote from: stanwelch on August 22, 2015, 09:23:39 PM
I left the pegs long near the sawmill to hang things. Especially the peavey-- I would lay it down somewhere and had to look for it when needed or else trip on it. Now it has a "place"
Yep, ya can't stick a peavey into concrete to stand it up.
Wow.. you have it made in the shade now. How long is your mill deck? Great job sir.
I would be happy every time I walked in that to work. You should be very proud . Turned out very nice!
Mill deck is 30 feet
That is one heck of a nice shed. I think I'd have to call it a palace. It is a little to clean and orderly for my taste though.
Stan,
Curious. I see two little sheds in your saw palace ;) The big one, I'm supposing, is your tool storage. The other looks like you have a chainsaw sitting in the bottom and a bunch of firewood in the top. Is that correct? Seems kind of small for firewood storage for the winter...
Found the blue tool just above the box with the sticker boards. I hope I am seeng right. ???
Quote from: rjwoelk on August 24, 2015, 01:00:32 AM
Found the blue tool just above the box with the sticker boards. I hope I am seeng right. ???
Doh! ::) I guess the pallet sitting there should have been a clue...
Closed in the east gabel end for a little more morning shade
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27386/image~52.jpg)
Also put sides and matching metal roof on the sticker shed. Moved the tool storage shed out
This has been a fun project. I have a lot of respect for the timber framers of old that built structures without the power tools and tractor hydraulics !!
Thanks to all on this great forum that answered questions, offered words of encouragement and praise. It is much appreciated :)
Looks great! I build without power tools all the time, but I don't do without hydraulics. :D
very nice shed,, very nice for certain,,
You are looking fine, there, my friend. The mill looks very happy.
great shed smiley_thumbsup
That is one fine shed.
A little birdie told me that someone else just made a major change to his saw shed. Someone else who does not live that far from me :).
Now we gotta see pictures !! ;D
Excellent work Stan!
Thanks jimdad07. When do you plan to start on your barn?
Update. Enclosed the West gable end. 8"board 3" batten. All red oak
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27386/image~15.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1470004202)
That will be there for a long, long time. What a great sawshed.
Very very nice. Obviously you are a talented Man. Gotta ask....just how heavy were some of those flitches?...Are you going to save that rock and paint " man cave sweet man cave" on it? Mighty nice Sir.
Pretty :)
I'm adding a 12' x 32' lean to onto each side of my sawmill shed.
I have a question— I plan to install a 2x8 SYP board on each side of the four posts running the 32'. I'm thinking I should notch each post to support the 2x8 as shown on "B" below. Or should I install on the outside ofeach post like "A" ?
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27386/56813230-A228-4CFA-A458-0437C5B08515.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1595005986)
Really looks nice, Stan!!
If I put up something like that before I could put anything in it, I'd find my wife's car parked there. :D
Option B!
B might be better, though it would take more work. How was the Marinara sauce? ???
Scab another 2x8 on the post underneath
B or Beast :D
Way I would hold the 2x8s is tack them up with nails, then drill 2 holes through and put in a couple bolts.
That is prohibited on inspected work. I'd think hard before hanging on bolts.
I am leaning toward the notched post and attaching the 2x8 with 4pcs of 5" timber loc screws at each post. Rafters will rest on these with a birds mouth cut
The lean to roof will be 3/12 pitch with full deck boards and metal decking.
Rafters I'm using Are 2x8 SYP #1 on 24" centers. Each rafter is 14' long with the 12" overhang. Snow load is 25# in this area.
Does anyone see a problem with this plan?
Look at both ends of the rafters, are the new rafters supported on the same beam as the existing? If so check it for the increased load.
The new beam;
looks like half the rafter + overhang=7' x11' post to post x 35 lbs per square foot=2700lbs uniformly distributed along the beam.
https://forestryforum.com/members/donp/ddsimplebeam.html (https://forestryforum.com/members/donp/ddsimplebeam.html)
It passes at double 2x8 in #1 SYP, its right there on deflection at those spans.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10017/posttruss.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1595070396)
Don, thanks for the load calculations and link. I checked the main building beam (which is a red oak 8x10) with the increased load and it passes.
Your help and expertise is much appreciated!
Stan
Don, what is the issue with bolts?
The bearing location, where the bolt actually is in the timber, and the bearing area, the small curved surface of the bolt, and it gets into engineer land real fast. If there are 2 or more bolts across grain, say bolting a 2x12 to a post they can be no more than 5" apart to reduce drying splitting. The drawing and prohibition that pops to mind is in the deck guide, DCA6 in the awc.org website. While on that publications page I think you can also download a read only version of the NDS, all of the wood bolting rules are in there, as well as in the next chapter or so take a look at split ring and shear plate connectors, that is the real way that is done like in bolted bridge or large timber structures.
The Bolt Police are surely going to arrest me :).
That would be Judge Darwin's court :).
Quote from: Don P on July 18, 2020, 06:58:13 PMThe bearing location, where the bolt actually is in the timber, and the bearing area
So a question comes to mind. On my plans (I drew with engineer's input) I am bolting (more like a timber screw) down my 4x17 cedar beams across three sills (6x12), 12' apart to support my 4x cedar deck "boards". The plans call out ONE stainless steel screw at each intersection of beam to sill. One seems lacking. Would it hurt to put more in or would that promote splitting?
Related, I planned on single beams running the width of the deck - so 32' long with a ~3' overhang on each end. Well, finding 7 trees to make those is proving to be a challenge so I'm thinking butting two each on the middle sill (12" wide sill). I'm planning on putting blocking at least at the 3 sills to help support (keep upright) the beams. Would it be better to lap the beams at the middle sill so they each have a 12" perch? The deck boards will be attached from below (pocket screws) to keep the top surface clean.
With your loads and on an engineered building I would defer to the engineer of record and call on them for changes. That said it sounds like in the first case the screws are simply holding the beam in place. In the second question, continuous beams have different reactions than simple beams or continuous beams over differing numbers of supports. I suspect you would be fine at 6" bearing and replacing any tension needs of those timbers with a steel strap hidden across the joint, but again, that is their call.
This is the page from DCA6 I was thinking of when I wrote about the prohibited use above;
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10017/postbolting.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1595156983)
Just more Sunday morning rambling,
You will find bolting schedules for things like deck ledgers where the load is hanging on the bolts. This is also one of the most frequent failure points when not followed thoughtfully. In one picture that made the rounds a builder had installed the correct number of bolts attaching a ledger to a building but had installed them all in a line that happened to be above the main nail line of the joist hangers. The deck had 40 people on it when the ledger split along the bolt line. The intact deck with joists still attached to the lower half of the ledger was on the ground, the upper half and bolts were still on the wall, 40 people went to the hospital, of course the builder not among them. The press report as always said the failure was caused by overload, the load was about 1/4 of what should have been design load, improper bolting was the culprit. anyway, round about way of saying, when you can bear wood on wood that is usually better than hanging wood from a connector. When using multiple bolts or lags think about what happens if the joint rotates as it is loaded and whether that will cause the wood to split. None of this is meant to discourage the use of any fasteners, just to think about joint design pretty carefully.
This is a short clip about split rings;
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lxIb_p2V-LQ&feature=emb_logo (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lxIb_p2V-LQ&feature=emb_logo)
And shear plates;
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YNKdiJ22gbA (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YNKdiJ22gbA)
Lotsa expertise here and I know I may be bout to unveil my ignorance but its more time and cost effective to find out on line now. I built a 20'x30' shed that I added a 20'x30" leanto off one side. Post are 6"x 6". If I add an open cover off the post of the lean to how far can I extend cover without post? I need a minimum of 8'. I have been told I can go 12'. Also been told you can't do that. Sooooo....any input is appreciated
That's gonna take a picture for me to understand.
Don is the man that would know 😊👍
B would be the way I see them do pole barns around here. I just did extensive work on one that is 40x32. Just curious though, why not stick with the same framing techniques you used on the rest of the barn?
Quote from: hopm on July 19, 2020, 12:39:44 PM
Lotsa expertise here and I know I may be bout to unveil my ignorance but its more time and cost effective to find out on line now. I built a 20'x30' shed that I added a 20'x30" leanto off one side. Post are 6"x 6". If I add an open cover off the post of the lean to how far can I extend cover without post? I need a minimum of 8'. I have been told I can go 12'. Also been told you can't do that. Sooooo....any input is appreciated
I don't have the answer, but I do know it will depend on what size rafters you are using. So need that info too.
So are you saying a 28 wide 30 long roof over a 20x30 leanto frame?
Dana, I just wanted to try something different. Pole barn style is faster and easier to erect working alone.
I am cutting the post like option "B" but increased to 2x10 for a little extra strength for the rafter beam.
So Don, is it OK to just use One bolt? Had not thought about cracking of boards. Here in Kansas, if you don't use bolts in pole sheds, the wind will spread them out. Morton buildings is finding bolts make their buildings last.
Multiple bolts can be fine, a deck ledger that is hanging from the rim joist on a house has basically a bolt in it for every joist (not in a straight line, hi-lo-hi-lo). Keep the rules in mind, for that, 2" from each edge minimum, no more than 5" between rows, I'd have to look up end distances myself :-[
Grain orientation, if the grain is all running the same direction that shrinking and cross grain splitting problem goes away. There is a spline holding the 2 pieces of the bottom chord together through the kingpost in my shop, I think there are 5 pegs on each side, so 10 "dowel type connectors" in one piece of gnarly interlocked black gum. Bolts, lags, screws, nails, drifts, pegs, all fall under that general heading. On the awc.org calcs page there is a connections calc that spits out the same numbers as the pages of tables in the NDS.
Things like that prohibition, you can and should hold it all together with a couple of bolts but the bearing should be the notch in the wood. I haven't checked but I suspect if you go back through this thread and get the loads and try them out on bolts in the connections calc it is going to be tough to get a good low bolt supporting the load. Bolting up in the configuration you were talking about is done in heavier work but is detailed differently to still provide a bearing seat under the beam using bolts but not causing that splitting effect. I need to quit dawdling here and go search up a dump truck clutch, not the most profitable day ::). I'll try to find a sketch of that detail.
Anyway connections are good, many times multiple fasteners are fine. for instance multiple nails can be better than fewer bolts many times. It spreads the load out over a larger area on a lower strength material like wood, which is good, and if you lose a nail or two it isn't like losing a bolt or two, more redundancy. We talk more about sizing beams but if you look at failures it very often is at the connections. It's worth carrying this conversation on. You'll also find out, I know more about sizing simple beams :D
We had a really strong wind here a couple years ago, the neighbors were busy cutting pieces of steel and drilling holes and putting in their pole sheds to avoid them blowing away. I have a shed I built 30 years ago, was banging, found all the nails had pulled out in the boards holding the top end of the rafters. Cut some pieces of angle, and drilled holes put 1/4" bolts in and the shed is still standing. Poor built sheds just give up on those strong windy days. Thanks for the reply Don
Check out pg 8 in this document notice how they are doing their serious bolting to create a seat for the beam to bear on and the bolting into the beam is really to hold it in place or transfer tension. The same kind of thinking might work here with 2x beam supports bolted to the post for bearing and lighter maybe slightly overbored bolts securing them to the post;
Heavy Timber (https://awc.org/pdf/codes-standards/publications/wcd/AWC-WCD5-HeavyTimber-ViewOnly-0402.pdf)
Yes tieing stuff together is important. I've nailed the steel lumber strapping between the framing and the sheathing in breezy places just to get a little more tie in the building. The engineer just wasn't up on that mountaintop on the same kind of days I see up there :D
On my Morton they use 3 2x6s together and they extend up and the one in the middle is shorter and that's the pocket for the truss to sit in then they bolt it together
Quote from: Walnut Beast on July 22, 2020, 12:24:25 AM
On my Morton they use 3 2x6s together and they extend up and the one in the middle is shorter and that's the pocket for the truss to sit in then they bolt it together
That's on a 70' truss free span 66' with 2' overhangs
Made a mistake the 3 are 2x8s(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/59695/832DDAA2-7F3C-44B9-8816-006874B3FDAE.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1595410626)
Making progress on the lean to addition. When this bay is finished the lumber on pallets will be moved here. Then proceed with this side.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27386/4840FF50-58F4-4F3A-B49F-92CCF910B103.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1595783230)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27386/392557A8-5B8C-425E-AA23-4844EE0BF6A3.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1595782907)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27386/ECFF0592-3749-482C-BD76-E3710669CF83.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1595783367)
Very nice!
Who is that thin, waif-like person, standing by the post?
:D
He's this guy masquerading as an old man (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27386/13FC1DC7-636A-4082-8AF0-53AC886D59F1.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1595848769)
Thanks for posting that Don, surprised at the anchors for fastening posts to foundation, would have expected heavier steel pieces.
dont see any chairs for people stopping by to watch,stan
Maybe THAT'S why Nobody stops! :D
Making progress.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27386/2FC93484-1029-4712-8960-0949FD6AC667.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1596754368)
Need advice to make sure rafters are securely tied to the two 2x10 beams.
Shed will be open when finished. Rafters will be topped with 7/8" x 8" boards then metal roof.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27386/3CA2214A-0483-45D6-9547-32E08CEF10B1.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1596754662)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27386/C13904D2-ECBD-445C-B1D5-B8042187D576.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1596754655)
Rafters are attached with hurricane brackets. I'm concerned about uplift wind force. How should I finish the tie. Would adding nails be enough or should I add a board like below nailed to each beam then to each rafter?
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27386/0DE8867E-EEC8-4D3A-9797-F1A3FD81BC0C.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1596754669)
Like so? That's an old state college method, predates Mr Simpson. Helps with load sharing on the beam as well.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10017/posttruss.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1595070396)
Thanks Don. With 5" spacing between beams, I can trim a 2x6 to fit with little waste.
That pic Don posted is the way my dad built his pole shed. Still standing. Checked and there is just one bolt per pole. Look like 3/4" bolts.
Finished tying the rafters to the beam. Thanks again, DonP
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27386/0146A34B-EEF7-4448-8A2C-560EECFFC88E.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1596909823)
Next install decking boards. First four rows white oak (most exposed to the elements) and the rest pine and cottonwood
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27386/7A06A0D1-62E1-4C19-A918-B927838FC4E9.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1596910112)
That vertical 2x is the way I've always built them. Still do. Never used any kind of metal tie.
I like to cut the rafter tails after they're up. I pull a line from one end, to the other where I want them cut. The end rafters are set first, and the line pulled. Any rafter that might be a little low to the line is simply lifted, and fastened to that vertical 2x. Leave a hair of light under the line at each rafter.
After they're all up, they are marked, and cut. Gives a perfectly straight roofline edge.
Ready for metal soon. Ordered for delivery later this week
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27386/D4EC1459-EF58-40E9-A13F-68726714C412.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1597714487)
Slow and steady wins the race.
hurricane clips are code in mi
As to the code here, if you use trusses on a building, the hurricane ties are required, but if you stick build a roof, toe nails are good.
Question about using cottonwood on exterior, does anyone use it for siding successfully? A neighbor has a building built entirely from cottonwood, probably 100 or more years old. The old building is still serviceable. The shingles are probably cedar.
I've never used cottonwood, but I think you answered your own question😊
What code really calls for is a tie capable of withstanding the uplift. The easy way to do that is with Mr Simpson's rated metal connectors. We can also count nails, reference their capacity in the NDS for the orientation, size nail and wood used, do a little math to show compliance.
Finished the deck. Installed the underlayment and started the metal.
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Had to quit today. Full sun and pushing 90. Cat on a hot tin roof.
Forecast is 60 at daybreak tomorrow. Need to git r done before 10. Sun and hot next few days
I saw you waving all the way from Georgia.
North side finished
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Ready to start south side
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Making progress
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That's exciting stuff Stan. It's going up and you are going down!! 8)
That is a fine looking shed.
When you get that done, you will have to add another wing on the North side, and when you get that done...............
WDH. I know— I only have 1750' to the East. We all wanna be like JAKE!!
You would not want to be guilty of "Shed Creep" :D.
Beautiful building.
Hey Michigander !!! Congrats on a great build !!!
Gonna call it done 8) (for now)!
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Looks great 👍
Well it looks mighty nice Sir. Very Professionally done !! 8)
Quote from: Magicman on September 15, 2020, 04:13:22 PM
Well it looks mighty nice Sir. Very Professionally done !! 8)
I agree, but with two wings like that, you better be sure you have it secured to the ground, it could fly away on you. :D
Jim Rogers
Looking like a real shed for sure!
Wow! That is a great looking shed. I'd love to have that. It would be crammed full to the roof in no time but what a great place to stack piles of drying lumber. I really like the piers you poured to mount the posts on. Did you buy the metal brackets or make them?
Thanks everyone.
Caveman — I made the post brackets. Straps welded to an 8" square plate. The straps extend into the concrete to anchor to the pier.
Jim — I do worry about wind lift. One thing helping lower the risk is the building is located in an old gravel pit below surrounding elevations.
I dig it too.
Shed envy, looks great.
Okay Stan, it is absolutely fantastic, but are you trying to catch up to Jake???
Looks great
Very nice work Sir
great looking shed! i'm gaining on my sawmill shed slowly but surely.. nice job!
Quote from: Brian C. on September 17, 2020, 12:43:47 PM
Okay Stan, it is absolutely fantastic, but are you trying to catch up to Jake???
You are going to have to have about 12 of those all linked together :D.
Good job, Stan. I know it was a lot of work and cost. Enjoy it.
Beautiful shed and great execution. For someone who doesn't know much about concrete, do you find a way to tie the 3 concrete pads together? Or each floats independent? Forgive my ignorance.