Stihl MS 650 chain saw problem in starting

[alsayyed]

Dear friend's chain saw owners. I have finally purchased the Stihl MS 650. I think it is good machine, but I am having problem starting it quickly. I need to pull the rope 5 – 6 times in order to start it. Beside this is a new machine. Could anybody tell me if there is some one run into this problem before?

I appreciate your answer.  

[SawTroll]

Is this with cold or warm engine, or both?

[sawguy21]

With a cold saw, squeeze the throttle and move the switch all the way down. Push in the decompression button and pull until it fires once. Move the switch up one position, push the decom valve again and pull until it starts. Let rev up for a few seconds then blip the throttle to bring it down to normal idle.
On a warm saw, I do the same thing except I don't choke it. I go to choke then back to high idle before pulling it the first time. Find it starts easier there than on low idle. I sell saws and see a lot of flooded units when customers bring them back because of no start. They forget to to open the choke after the first burp.

[alsayyed]

I had tried both ways cold and warm. even I have tried to started know I could not make it. The question if I want to start it in normal function shall press the decompression button down?.
I think Stihl is good machine but when it comes to start the machine it is pain in the neck.

[fishhuntcutwood]

By all means press the decomp valve.  That's what it's there for.  I even use it on a hot start.  Take it back to your dealer.  There may be nothing wrong with the saw that can't be fixed.  It may be a carb thing, it could be (no offense) operator error.  It's brand new, so there shouldn't be anything wrong with it structurally, but if there is, well you should get a new saw.  Go see your dealer.  He can either fix it, or show you how best to start it.  Good luck, and let us know how it turns out.

Jeff

[DanManofStihl]

Ever motor that I have ever used starts alot easier after about 40 hours. My honda log spliter started on the 10th pull after I got it and I was *pithed I payed that much money for a motor that starts after 10 pulls now that it is broken in starts on the first pull. I would take it back to the dealer if it doesn't improve though don't wait to long the warratees only 3 or so months.

[alsayyed]

Dear sir fishhuntcutwood thank you very much for your advice. We tried to pull it many times in order to start it but I have found that gasoline is coming out the exhausts, and the decompression valve I think maybe the machine is flooded, what is the recommended in this case? .

[fishhuntcutwood]

Whoa, that is flooded.  Pull the spark plug, and drain out what you can.  Then with the saw in the "off" position, not "choke" crank it several times with the plug still out.  You'll likely have fuel in the lines and in the crank case.  Drain out any more fuel that comes from all the cranking.  Once you get most of that out, put the plug back in.  You should be back to where you can start from scratch.  If it's flooding that much it's either something messed up with the carb, or it's in the way you're trying to start it.  Remember, as soon as you get even a slight "burp" while cranking with the choke on, immediately switch up to the high idle position (on up from choke) and crank again with the decomp valve open again.  Saw should start in a pull or two.

If all of this doesn't help, take it back to the dealer, and he should make it right, or show you what you're doing wrong, if that's the case.

Jeff

[Jeff]

Hello alsayyed and welcome to the Forestry Forum!  Can you tell us a little about yourself and what you do? You are our first member from that part of the world and we are very happy that you joined the Forestry Forum Family.

[alsayyed]

fishhuntcutwood   Sir I thank you very much for your advice I was very bit worry too much because I it new machine and the friend who bought for from use he is good friend even he tried by him self. I have followed you instruction 80% according to my knowledge I removed the plug 4 times to make sure that I am OK. So I pull the chain many times and what happened it worked and stops then I pulled again and squeezed the throttle and let the engine run for 3 minutes and put it off then restarted again and it is working beautiful. Hopefully by tomorrow it will work. I thank you very much again and I thank every body tried to help.

Regarding Jeff B. question no problem sir I will pass more information on me. I am the only woodworker in Qatar. I will include few pics and picture of things I do with these logs I found in the desert and pics of my solar klin I have built one week ago.

[Bill]

Welcome to the Forestry Forum Alsayyed

With all this good info about starting your saw IMHO I'll add in my two cents.

Some basics
Your saw needs enough gas to run but not too much to foul the spark plug. So I try a couple pulls with the choke on ( my old saw doesn't have a decompression valve so I just replace the starter rope more often ) and if it doesn't start I put the choke off. If the engine is hot - just been running - I don't even use the choke, maybe just a little throttle if need be. After a couple pulls with the choke off if it still hasn't started and I don't smell gas from over choking, I'll try choking again for a couple pulls and by now its usually running.

Oil - I always check my bar oil reservoir even before the the gas tank is empty ( and I can use the break  ) - I'd rather throw in oil than replace the bar and I have it set to use more oil than usual.
The oil that you mix with your gas must be rated for use with air cooled engines and many here will only use Stihl 2 cycle oil. I've found the hard way that its best to use fresh new good quality gas.

Chain - don't be affraid to sharpen your chain often. I've heard every tank full of gas to "when the chips get small " . I go with sooner rather than later. A sharp chain is easier to use and easier to keep sharp.
Also keep an eye on chain tension. Too much "burns" the bar and such and too little is dangerous.

Otherwise good luck with your saw

[alsayyed]

thank you Bill I almost kind sorted the problem out need little practice. the only problem left. sharpining the chain. If I do it by file it will take time. I have   seen some machine on Ebay but I do not know if these too good. What is your recommendation Bill.

[Furby]

Welcome Alsayyed, you have me interested in these logs now.
I look forward to seeing some pictures when you can get them.

[Jeff]

alsayyed, do you have access to regular chainsaw chain files there? Filing is not that bad and yoour chains will last longer then if you use a grinder. However, a grinder can certainly be of good use in correcting poor saw filing techniques until you get good at it.

[Bill]

Alsayyed

I struggled at first with sharpening my own chain. What works for me is having a second ( or third or more ) chain that I can look at to make sure that I've got the angles right. There's plenty of chain sharpening guides on the market but I finally can pretty much use a plain round file to match the "factory" angle by having the spare chain as a model. You can use a flat file and one of the correct ( Stihl ? ) depth gauges to handle the cutter height.   Also many chains have markings on the chain that show the correct angles - very helpful.

I pretty much stay away from the power tools because I seem to be able to sharpen the chain by hand with just a few swipes of the file so I remove very little metal and the chain seems to last longer. A second ( or third or more ) chain again allows me to keep going and I can sharpen the chains at night ( or a rainy day ??? ).

Good Luck with a great saw :-)