Sharpening and Setting (Helpful info from "Wood-Mizer" Tech support)

[Cutting Edge]

For Folks hunting for information about a WM LTAGA Sharpener and Single Tooth Setter, here is some good starting information...

Regarding the LTAGA Sharpener:

1)  Replace the grinding wheel when it reaches 4½" dia. - Going any further messes up the geometry of the tooth and gullet (grind is no longer square to body of  the blade).
2)  The 10° cam will also work for a 7° grind (change of grinder head angle and ALOT of dressing of the wheel on the right side)
3)  Measure tooth height to double check that grinder is still in spec. - 10°>¼", 9°>5/32"
4)  Even slightly worn parts on the sharpener can create HUGE issues with consistency and accuracy.  Money well spent fixing the machine instead of fighting gremlins trying to save a few dollars and ruining good lumber.

Regarding Setting:

Good rule of thumb to start with the set is - Take ½ the blade thickness, and start with that number for the set of the tooth.  I was told the following is a good starting point, and somewhat of the standard for obtaining a good set.  But of course each person can adjust it to whatever works best for them.

Example - .045 blade thickness (.045 divided by 2=.0225), start with .022-.023 of set
Softwoods - add .001-.003 of set
Hardwoods - subtract .001-.003 of set
Frozen Wood - subtract additional .002-.003 from normal set.

I figured this info might be helpful to both beginners and veterans alike.

[petefrom bearswamp]

I tried the same cam on the 7@ blades as I use for my 10 @ blades but it appeared to take way too much off of the tooth.
My sharpener is 1995 vintage.
Also the blades are .055
Pete.

[POSTON WIDEHEAD]

                                                       


             ORANGE         


                                                         

[bandmiller2]

Thats good advice and applies to most sharpeners and setters.Thats one advantage of sharpening your own you can stray from the standard offering and taylor to your machine and logs.I am fond of less than 10 degree hook for everything and set on the high side. Frank C.

[ladylake]

 On my sharpener the wheel slides straight up-down, no difference in how it sharpens over the life of the wheel and it gets left on untill it won't go any lower. If the blade swings on a pivot then the smaller wheel will make a difference.   Gotta agree with Frank, less hook and more set most times.   Steve

[bandmiller2]

Most automatic sharpeners,at least the ones I've seen,feed from right to left.The left side of the grinding wheel determines the hook angle as the wheel wears you get less hook.Many folks that think there getting 10 degrees are in fact cutting with less.Get a machinests protractor head and have a white background it may surprise you the angle your cutting with. If you  dress your wheel too often your just throwing away good grits[not the homeny kind].Frank C.

[Cutting Edge]

I tried the same cam on the 7@ blades as I use for my 10 @ blades but it appeared to take way too much off of the tooth.
Pete.

Pete,
I am no expert (barely wet behind the ears), but I am going to have to agree with you.  I've gotten ALOT of advice from a FF member and he said that it did indeed take alot off the back.  He said it could be done with alot of "creative" wheel dressing.  I gave this a try today and it seemed to work out well.   Compared to a 7° band sharpened on a CBN it was "almost" a perfect match.  Being "creative" would be almost an understatement.  This wheel will now be dedicated for 7° blades as it took alot of work dressing it as such.