Stuck gib bolt

tyb525 · September 02, 2009, 08:14:18 PM

I was changing the blades on my Grizzly lunchbox planer, when I encountered a stuck bolt.

This is the first time I've tried to change the blades. I got the planer in January, and have only planed maybe 100 bd ft, and that's mostly cherry.

I got one blade changed and all the bolts loose on the other except the very last on on the right end of the head. These are the kind the screw "out" in order to hold the blade in the gib.

So in this case I am trying to get the bolt screwed "in". I managed to round the cheap, slightly undersize bolt (of course :

), and I can't get it loose with vise grips. I've tried some WD-40, but of course to no avail. I've tried a hammer and cold chisel on the corner to try to turn it, as per Grizzly's instructions. Nada.

I think this is a matter of a steel bolt going into an aluminum head.

I contacted Grizzly, who gladly sent me a replacement bolt, but basically told me I was on my own getting it out. :

I can't get to the end of the bolt to drill it out.
I would greatly appreciate some tips on getting this darn bolt out!!

Reddog · September 02, 2009, 08:40:28 PM

Ty can you post a picture or a link to a parts break down so I can understand better what you are describing?

Thanks.

Edit I found the manual and I am down loading now.

tyb525 · September 02, 2009, 08:51:17 PM

http://www.grizzly.com/images/partslists/g0505_pl.pdf

cutterhead is #17
gib is #16
gib bolts are #21

Reddog · September 02, 2009, 08:54:13 PM

Based on looking at the manual, the first thing I would do is use a block of wood on the gib and tap it. This will make sure the gib is seated all the way into the drum. Then see if you can loosen the bolt.
If that doesn't work then I think the next option is to cut the bolt head then you can get the gib out to remove the stuck bolt.

Here is the manual if some one else has a better idea.
http://grizzly.com/images/manuals/g0505_m.pdf

Lud · September 02, 2009, 10:16:42 PM

Don't we get some Rust Reaper or other lubricants in before we cut heads off? Head rounded? Drill and Easy Out? Heat might be tuff...........but cut off the head right away? ??? ???

beenthere · September 02, 2009, 10:32:39 PM

Great place for the RustReaper to step in (or in the beginning it would have been).

tyb525 · September 02, 2009, 10:38:55 PM

Well, see, I don't think its stuck from rust. There is no way to get an easy out or even a drill bit to it. I'll try to get a picture tomorrow.

fstedy · September 02, 2009, 11:37:37 PM

If the Rust Reaper doesn't work I've heard some old timers using a couple drops of battery acid to disolve the corrosion. Steel and aluminum don't work well in screw threads.

trim4u2nv · September 03, 2009, 12:12:06 AM

I have had some moulder heads in the same situation. We use a dremel or die gringer with a cutoff wheel made of carborundum and fiberglass. With some steady handwork as others mentioned you can cut off the head of the bolt. When the gib is removed sometimes you can heat just enough with an arc welder lead and vice grips to remove the bolt from the gib. Otherwise a machine shop is called for.

http://www.dremel.com/en-us/AttachmentsAndAccessories/Pages/AttachmentsDetail.aspx?pid=426

DanG · September 03, 2009, 03:18:09 AM

RUST REAPER! It isn't just for rust. It is the best penetrating lubricant on the market.

If you feel like you just gotta do some cutting, take your Dremel and cut a nice slot in the top of that bolt head. Take your good ol' hammer-actuated impact driver, select the right bit, and start tapping on it. It will come out.

SwampDonkey · September 03, 2009, 04:50:42 AM

Wood dust and particles can be just as corrosive as plain old water and aluminum will corrode like iron only it leaves gibbsite (Al(OH)₃), a precipitate, instead of rust.

Burlkraft · September 03, 2009, 07:58:21 AM

I had the same exact problem with my Delta planer >:( >:( >:(

Rust Reaper saved the day...and Vise Grips, of course.

Those "just undersize cheap bolts" are now 1/4 X 20 grade 8 bolts ;D ;D ;D

Jeff · September 03, 2009, 08:54:38 AM

Rust Reaper may nor be effective with dissimilar metals

Reddog · September 03, 2009, 09:00:19 AM

Hey Hey Hey, I am all about RReaper. I have bought it by the gallon. 8)

Attached is a pdf of the configuration of these Gib bolts. It is a blind bolt, so if it won't turn then cutting is your last option.

Ty if you can wait for Rust Reaper to be delivered, it may do the job. You would need to keep putting it on for a few days and let it do it's thing. It does seem to work quite well with dissimilar metals, it just takes some time to work.

Burlkraft knows what you are up against. ;D

Hilltop366 · September 03, 2009, 10:37:33 AM

If there is room you can carefully weld (a wire feed or mig works best) a nut or washer or other piece of steel to the bolt. This will provide some fast heat in just the right spot and something new to put a wrench or vicegrips on. Then move bolt back and forth a small amount while working in some lube. Taking your time and a back and forth motion will help in not twisting off the bolt. If it sticks again add another spot of weld for more heat. Have a good supply of water ready, it is best not to do this around wood dust and shavings.

metalspinner · September 03, 2009, 03:20:54 PM

Been there, done that, Ty. >:(

This was with a Delta benchtop. I used the Dremel to cut a couple of new flat spots. Then I was able to grab hold with the vice grips.

The Delta used dome headed hex drive screws. What a pain! Like Burlkraft, I went with hex heads after that.

tyb525 · September 03, 2009, 08:01:09 PM

Just ordered some RR!

beenthere · September 03, 2009, 08:24:03 PM

You won't regret that.

olyman · September 03, 2009, 09:25:33 PM

personally--i have found kroil to be the best pene oil, bar none. and the washer welded on top of the bolt, will work wonders a lot of the time. something to get a hold of, and the heat will crack it loose, tho not always

beenthere · September 03, 2009, 09:32:53 PM

I used kroil for years, but RustReaper will leave it "in the dust" IMO. But until RR, kroil was the best available that I knew about.

scsmith42 · September 03, 2009, 09:43:53 PM

Quote from: beenthere on September 03, 2009, 09:32:53 PM
I used kroil for years, but RustReaper will leave it "in the dust" IMO. But until RR, kroil was the best available that I knew about.

+1. I used to by Kroil by the 5 gallon container. Rust Reaper is better.

Reddog · September 03, 2009, 10:04:37 PM

Quote from: olyman on September 03, 2009, 09:25:33 PMand the washer welded on top of the bolt, will work wonders a lot of the time. something to get a hold of, and the heat will crack it loose, tho not always

There is no bolt head sticking out on this design. The bolt is backed out into a slot in the hub that the Gib sets into.
If you cut the head off to make room to get the Gib out, then you can weld a nut on to get the rest of the bolt out of the Gib.

tyb525 · September 12, 2009, 09:50:24 PM

8) Got it out! Many thanks to Rust Reaper! Just put a few drops on, wait a day, put a couple more one, tapped with a hammer and cold chisel a little, and bam it was loose!

It's nice to be able to use a $350 piece of equipment, especially when it is a crucial step between rough lumber and furniture ;).

Once again Thank You RR and thank you forestry forum! I would have never heard of RR if the Forestry Forum didn't exist!

beenthere · September 12, 2009, 11:58:44 PM

tyb525
That is good to hear.

I'll admit that I was a bit tentative that RR would do what you needed, but glad to hear it worked. I have found it most amazing in many different applications.

Da Reaper to the rescue. 8) 8)

tyb525 · September 13, 2009, 11:18:33 AM

I'm not exactly sure what the RR did besides lubricate it. I couldn't see any sign of corrosion or rust. It seems as if they tightened this particular bolt down way too tight at the factory.