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Couple 440b synchro range question.

Started by ohiowoodchuck, December 03, 2018, 08:14:53 PM

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ohiowoodchuck

Going by the book it says once transmission is out to drive main shaft back enough so the front bearing clears the case enough for main shaft removal. If I drive it back will that effect the transmission oil pump gears. I just wanted to make sure if I needed to remove the pump or anything else first. 
2nd question I have is I bought all new synchronizers/clutch disk. Should I soak these along with the plates in hydraulic oil before I install them. I just wanted to make sure before I start on the removal and rebuild this weekend. 
Education is the best defense against the media.

Grandpa

It has been a while but I think you do have to take the charge pump out. While you have the back off it may be a good time to put brakes in it. Also, while you have the oil drained I would pull the suction screen and clean it, that is where your brakes and syncros go when they wear off. 

Soaking the syncros is probably a good idea but I didn't. When I got the transmission back in but before I put the top cover on I put most of the oil in with 2 1/2 gallon jugs and poured it all over the top shaft. When the machine is running it pumps oil on the syncros.

Kind of entertaining and educational to start the machine with the top cover off and watch where the oil squirts out of.

tacks Y

Took a look at my tranny, hard to tell with top shaft and pump out. That being said about 99 percent sure you need to remove rear cover, brake disc, and pump. I can not remember but i think the pump is driven off the end of the top shaft and the shaft bearing is accessed from the outside also.

ohiowoodchuck

The book is kinda vague on it. It does say to remove rear cover before pulling the transmission. Then when it comes to disassembly it just says to drive the shaft back which moves the bearing race back and allows you to remove the shaft. Is there any gaskets on the pump or the screen I need to get. I spent 3 hours today hooking up chains to the mainline and pulling it up the hill to a level spot. I got that and laid down plywood and started on the removal. 
Education is the best defense against the media.

tacks Y

There are 2 big gaskets on the back with a plate between them. They are thick so with care they should be ok. The pump on my  C has o-rings on the intake. The pump should hold the race in on the end of main shaft. So it needs to come off, just a simple gear pump. I do not think there is a gasket in it. If you get shaft out, sorry when you get the shaft out take to a bench to work on. My C has about 6 snap rings on it and the one on pump end comes in different thicknesses. DO NOT take the inside of sycronizer ( I do not know how to spell) apart in the field. There are 4 balls and 4 springs in there. The clutch and drums should come off fine. There are shimes on the front bearing to get the free play right.   

ohiowoodchuck

Thanks Tom. I ordered the 2 big housing gaskets and the top cover. I just wanted to make sure I didnt need anything else. I ordered all new springs and balls and after them flying around the house the last night I made the decision to bring the mainahaft back to the house. Thanks for the advice. I also agree with what you told me about the play on the fork. I got the new drums and fork fitted up on the bench and there is hardly no play at all. 
Education is the best defense against the media.

ohiowoodchuck

What's the best way you guys have found to keep the springs and balls compressed while you slide it on the gear. 
Education is the best defense against the media.

mike_belben

Im not sure what youre up against but ive had to use all sort of ways to get starters back together, especially 4 brush.  

Zip ties, duct tape, business cards, feeler gauges, soda can wraps, safety wire etc.  Detent check balls in shifter forks are similar deal. 
Praise The Lord

ohiowoodchuck

Well the il girl is out and sitting on the ground. So far the reverse fork is wore. The high low fork is junk and the main shaft slid back must of been me pulling on the shifter and it busted the transmission oil pump gears. And the transmission side of the brake disc is grooved really bad. 

 
Education is the best defense against the media.

Grandpa

Sorry about the late reply on the screen gasket, been kinda crazy here. Yes you will want a gasket for the triangle cover that holds the screen. 

Regarding the springs and balls I turned a piece on the lathe to the correct diameter and assembled it on there and then slid it onto the shaft. JD does make a tool for that as well.

My hat is off to you if you pulled that transmission in the woods. Good job!

ohiowoodchuck

Yes sir. I did every bit of it in the woods. I didnt have no other choice. 
Education is the best defense against the media.

mike_belben

Sucks man, but good on ya for grinding it out.  I hope life gets smoother for ya soon.
Praise The Lord

ohiowoodchuck

I got the main shaft fixed today. The synchronizer drum had wore down and got against the gear and had chewed up the splines not letting it engage on the high side. A few of the clutch discs were metal and no friction material. I figured out a new trick with the springs and balls. Slide the new one on the shaft and pull the ring with the springs and balls up on to it. Worked like a charm. I pressed the old gear off and then pressed the new one. Now if I could find a brake disc and a reverse fork and order a couple gaskets, I can get it back together. I thought about welding this one but I'm a little hesitant since its cast and I don't know exactly what the tolerance should be. 
Education is the best defense against the media.

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