Good saw to replace Husqvarna 350

sumpnz · January 11, 2021, 02:30:56 PM

I have a Husqvarna 350 (20" bar) that my dad gave me 10 years ago. It's getting close to needing replacement/rebuilding, if it's not already there. So I'm starting to think about what to buy to replace it. I'd prefer Stihl brand, all else being equal, as it's much better supported in my area than Husqvarna. Thinking MS-261, but not sure if that's really the best choice. I'd like to stick with "pro" saws as they'll last longer and are rebuildable.

It will be used for bucking firewood, limbing trees after they're down, and cutting down smaller trees. Figure on around 3-5 cords a year for bucking. I'd like to go with a little shorter bar than the 20" on the Husky, mostly to make limbing easier, and bucking small to medium logs a little faster.

So, what say you all?

I have an MS-461 for big jobs.

If the Husky is too far gone (it's at the shop now) I'll probably get whatever parts are needed to rehab it and give it my 14 year old boy to rebuild, and then it would become his saw to keep. I don't really have time mess with it very much right now, and I think he'd like a project like that. And the wife is on board with buying a new saw if the cost of having the shop fix the Husky is over about $250.

Tacotodd · January 11, 2021, 05:42:38 PM

I'd be surprised if the cost WASN'T over $250. When I had my 351 it got to the point of being more expensive to maintain than the price of a new saw, so I just got a new 372. Happy I am!

If nothing else then it'll be the good project that you were referring to, just for the fact that he will know them inside and out.

old guy · January 11, 2021, 06:57:57 PM

You'll be really happy with a 261, 16'' - 18'' bar.

barbender · January 11, 2021, 07:16:56 PM

The Stihl 261cm I have is a great little saw with more torque than it has a right to have👍

sawguy21 · January 11, 2021, 07:52:27 PM

For what you say you want to do the MS261CM would be a very good choice. Light with a great power to weight ratio and reliable as gravity with proper care. Like you Stihl is better represented in my area so that is the route I would go.

Allar · January 16, 2021, 08:08:07 AM

You nailed it, ms261 is a really good and powerful saw, it weights about the same as husqvarna 350 but the power difference is huge.

sumpnz · January 16, 2021, 02:07:07 PM

Still waiting for the shop to call. Be kind of nice if they can fix it without needing to overhaul the motor, as that would give me some time to see if there's a deal on a 261.

sumpnz · January 22, 2021, 12:32:04 AM

Looking like they'll fix it for under $150 limit I placed when I dropped it off. Sounded like they just replaced some gaskets, along with fixing a couple minor issues.

Still, I think I'll be on the lookout for a good deal on a 261. When I see a "shut up and take my money" kind of deal on one I'll snap it up.

Tacotodd · January 22, 2021, 02:28:03 AM

sumpz, be careful about saying that. Because it just depends. If it's like you might be in for the ride of your life. Hopefully it's not "totaled". Meaning that IF it is that you are not going to be spending even more money on it!

But if it's that way, you can always get a pro-saw built up to be a top notch runner. As long as it's been purchased within 3 years of being out of production for that 1 "little" part that you might need, whatever that part might be.

However, good luck in your quest!

sumpnz · January 22, 2021, 02:43:48 AM

When I talk about a good deal on a 261 I mean either a good sale on a brand new one, or something like the deals after a local chainsaw carving competition where the shop donates saws to the competition then sells after as used (but still under warranty) saws, typically with about 2-3 hours on them.

Tacotodd · January 22, 2021, 02:52:42 AM

That's going to be all right there. I'm just now getting to check my technology for being to read of your latest adventure regarding your saw status.

Old Greenhorn · January 22, 2021, 07:24:32 AM

I understand your wanting a new saw, and yeah, it's probably about time, but as you know that 350 is a really good saw that has some nice features. I have (well, had) one that my son grabbed back after I fixed it. Worth fixing and keeping for sure. I would rebuild it until there is hardly anything left of it, even if you had to use AM parts just to keep the cost down.
Dependable backup saws can be worth their weight when you need them.
Good luck!

mike_belben · January 22, 2021, 08:16:12 AM

Keep the muffler bolts tight or itll melt the case.

Next biggest issue with those is the intake boot will leak, lean out and sieze up.

sumpnz · January 22, 2021, 05:49:37 PM

Well, *DanG. Mechanic called. Guy yesterday had bad intel. The crank seals were gone and bearings are trash. I'll be getting it back in a parts bucket for my boy to tinker with.

Their price on a 261 is $619. I'm assuming that's with a bar and chain. When I get the saw I might see if they'd sell me just the powerhead so I can get a 3/8 0.050 compatible bar and a 3/8 sprocket so I can convert it to run on the same chain as my 461.

mike_belben · January 22, 2021, 06:23:54 PM

Huztl or HLsupply will have the seals and bearings cheap.

BradMarks · January 22, 2021, 06:27:42 PM

That $619 seems high to me. I bought a MS 291 before Christmas for about $470, w/20"bar and chain, no tax here. It weighed in hand about the same as my 026 which will be my backup now. We'll see if it holds up, my old saw is an antique. Perhaps the 261 is a better saw? but it has less horsepower than the 291. Somebody else probably knows better than me.

DHansen · January 22, 2021, 06:36:39 PM

The ms261c-m is hard to find here, but the ms261 is on the shelves. $600.00 in 18" version.

sawguy21 · January 22, 2021, 07:26:20 PM

The 261 and 291 are entirely different saws. The former high performance designed for the professional wood cutter, the latter for the farmer/rancher/weekend warrior. It is a good saw for its intended purpose but not sustained use day after day. The 261 will run 3/8 chain as long as it is kept sharp and you let the saw do the cutting but the loops will not be interchangeable with the 461, the drive link counts are diiferent.

sumpnz · January 22, 2021, 08:53:24 PM

Quote from: sawguy21 on January 22, 2021, 07:26:20 PM
The 261 will run 3/8 chain as long as it is kept sharp and you let the saw do the cutting but the loops will not be interchangeable with the 461, the drive link counts are diiferent.

Yes, I'm aware of that. I was going to get a 100' roll of chain and make my own loops. Swapping to a 3/8 .050 chain for the 261 means the same 100' roll would be shared between saws.

Guydreads · January 23, 2021, 03:33:31 AM

Quote from: mike_belben on January 22, 2021, 08:16:12 AM
Keep the muffler bolts tight or itll melt the case.

Next biggest issue with those is the intake boot will leak, lean out and sieze up.

Interestingly enough, I bought a Jonsered 2150 a little while ago, and it certainly did NOT have the stock muffler bolt set up. Actually, it didn't have bolts. It appears that the former owner of this saw had issues with the case burning... Already is some damage to it, and took it to the shop to see what could be done. (These are all my assumptions, based on many different things...) The guy at the shop probably had worked with these before. (I'm sure he had) and I believe tapped the cylinder to a larger 6-7 mm (I live in Spain so obviously metric is standard lol) which he jammed into the cylinder. It still threads and everything but it is sooooo stiff that you need vice grips to turn it at all. Then you thread on nuts on the outside. A much more secure setup, and certainly worth the time. Also make sure you get a muffler gasket in there. I also got it running btw just needed crank seals. I went the ummmmmm cheap route cause I use my saw about once a year and have four saws so I really don't need huge professional use stuff. (OEM in other words). So, I got what appear to be really quite good quality Chinese bearings. They are as smooth as butter fit snuggly and work great. Crank seals I'm really not sure of the origin, however they appear to be from China as well. Seems to be running fine.

Tacotodd · January 23, 2021, 07:02:07 AM

@Guydreads just go OEM on all parts.

I'd go into the reasons but I don't want to risk this going to the woodshed/restricted topics. Ie. political

DHansen · January 23, 2021, 08:12:29 AM

Quote from: Tacotodd on January 23, 2021, 07:02:07 AM
@Guydreads just go OEM on all parts.

I'd go into the reasons but I don't want to risk this going to the woodshed/restricted topics. Ie. political

Agree, if you take the time to do it, do it right and use the best parts. On the 350 muffler bolts, use a torque wrench. Tighten once. Run saw for 10 minutes and retorque it at operating temperature. If it's a reoccurring issue on your saw then use high temp thread locker on the threads.
The right parts make all the difference in any project.

Spike60 · January 24, 2021, 07:04:28 AM

Just for the record there are 2 different 350 top ends and only one of them had the habit of spitting the muffler bolts. Early 350's were 44mm bore and straight open port designs, and shared that top end with the 351. (Jonsered 2150 and 2149) That top end is fine and did not have the muffler bolt issue.

The later 350's were 45mm and had the capped transfer ports. The cylinder was shared with the 353, but had a dished piston on the 350 and flat top piston on the 353. (Jonsered 2150 and 2152). That top end had an allergic reaction to the muffler bolts and spit them out whether it was a plastic case or mag case saw. Problem was some kind of vibration that was at it's worse at the 12,500 RPM. Unless you stayed on top of the bolts, it is just a matter of time until they get loose.

Best rebuild option is to go with the 346XP top end which is the same price as the 350 kits. Think it's only $110 for an OEM kit, so there's not much savings going with an aftermarket kit, Only 2 slight alterations need to be made and it bolts right on. Take about .050 off the cylinder bolts as the flange of the 346 jug is a little thinner than the 350's. Then shave the "ribs" on the clutch side of the crankcase so they do not interfere with the transfer castings which stick out a little farther on the 346 cylinders.

Results in a real quick snappy saw. I've built several of them for my tree service customers who always loved the 346 and don't want to let it go. Was hesitant at first to put them in commercial use, but decent 346/2153 carcasses are hard to come by. They actually hold up fine and I don't see issues with the plastic case. Now some of the guys are finding decent 350's and bringing them in asking me to "give them the 346 treatment".

Guydreads · January 24, 2021, 09:31:40 AM

Ok. It appears no one really read what I said. The threads are permanently in the saw with nuts on the ends. I don't know if I didn't made that clear. Also, as far as China vs OEM, I really don't even want to touch on that. If I really was concerned about needing a pro saw, I'd go OEM. I run my saws once a year, have two saws all OEM parts, so this is kind of an experiment. I must say that I've had really good experience with Chinese stuff.
(This was modified because I got mad. I'm sorry)

Spike60 · January 24, 2021, 10:43:58 AM

Don't get frustrated. Read it and understood what you wrote are 2 different things. Are you saying the muffler bolts have been replaced by studs with nuts on the outside? Similar to a 55 or 395? Good idea if that's what it was.

Another way to save these things is to re-tap the bolt holes in the cylinder one size up and use muffler bolts from a 288 which are just the right length. Requires reeming out the holes in the muffler slightly so the bolts can slide through.