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Stick built Kiln Doors

Started by jcbrotz, April 16, 2020, 05:05:57 AM

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jcbrotz

Thinking on building a stick built kiln what kind of doors are you guys running or have built? Currently have set up in a reefer.
2004 woodmizer lt40hd 33hp kubota, Cat 262B skidsteer and way to many tractors to list. www.Brotzmanswoodworks.com and www.Brotzmanscenturyfarm.com

GeneWengert-WoodDoc

Many small kilns use stick-built doors.  The issue is that they get very heavy as they get bigger and the weight causes sagging and misalignment.  In any case, include a diagonal adjustable wire that you can tighten to help keep the door square.  Also, use techniques so that they doors do not blow around when open, but are tightly secured at all times.
Gene - Author of articles in Sawmill & Woodlot and books: Drying Hardwood Lumber; VA Tech Solar Kiln; Sawing Edging & Trimming Hardwood Lumber. And more

doc henderson

I have not done it yet, but thinking of taking heat tolerant water proof foam sheets and laminating an abrasion resistant shell inside and out.  need to find a waterproof glue that does not eat the foam.  as well a thin plywood or siding, 3/8th inch. for the shell,  with a periphery of pressure treated lumber.
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

stanmillnc

Good timing on this thread for me - I'm building my kiln doors this weekend - 2x4 stick frame. What type of hinges should I use? I was thinking 12" strap hinges, three on each door perhaps? My opening is 12.5' wide x 8.5' tall, so the doors will be pretty heavy.

doc henderson

I also think, the post on the back wall that supports the doors, needs to be sturdy and braced, and poss. somewhat over built!  so it does not sag, and cause the same problem with a dragging door.
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

K-Guy

Search this forum. There have threads on this in the past, many included pictures.
Nyle Service Dept.
A common mistake people make when trying to design something completely foolproof is to underestimate the ingenuity of complete fools.
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YellowHammer

Stick built kiln doors that don't leak precious heat and money three years from now after undergoing hundreds of kiln cycles are extremely difficult to build.  

It can be done, but it's difficult.  BTW, I work on mine every year or two, so my method doesn't work.   :D

YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

farmfromkansas

Doors are next  on my list after putting up the sheets inside on the tall wall.  Planned to use a double 2x4 on both edges, screw the frames together and cut a diagonal 2x4 coming up from the bottom, corner to corner, and then the pieces on 16" centers will have to be cut to fit the diagonal.  Planning to use 3/4" form ply on the outside, and some thinner material on the inside.  Soffit panel is a fairly weather resistant panel, made like smart siding and smart trim, about 3/8" thick. I just took house door hinges, and cut some metal the same thickness to weld onto them to make them longer. Will use bolts through the wall to make them as solid as possible. I put solid 2x4's on both ends of the wall, boxed on both sides, so hopefully it will be a strong enough corner to carry the doors. Was thinking of giving it a 1/4" gap all the way around, suppose that is enough?  It would be good for weather stripping.  Could cut a tapered 1/4" strip on the bottom so the door is supported when it is closed.
Most everything I enjoy doing turns out to be work

D6c

I found some very heavy piano hinge for my doors.  About 6" wide x 6'.

Found hollow D shape seal strip on Amazon to seal doors.  

I'd leave at least ¼ gap, probably better with ½" around doors.  My kiln is on skids and had trouble with the doors sticking after I moved it. Had to do very careful leveling to free them up again.

DWyatt

Do yourself a favor and put a wheel at the cantilevered end of the doors. Our kiln, while rudimentary, is probably 30+ years old and we have never had a door sagging issue because there's a pneumatic tire at the end of the door. This takes a huge amount of stress off the hinges and structure as a whole. All you have to do is have the arc level relative to the kiln box where the wheel will travel.

stanmillnc

Good idea - would love to see a pic of that wheel setup @DWyatt

DWyatt

Quote from: stanmillnc on April 17, 2020, 09:51:10 AM
Good idea - would love to see a pic of that wheel setup @DWyatt
Our kiln is very old, Gramps built it from insulated garage door panels and the door does not sag because of that little wheel on the door.


 

jcbrotz

Thanks guys. I'm still undecided on how to do thee doors. Strongly thinking on using sliding door tracks and tapering them in in the center and making bi-fold doors. Just working the logistics of that out in my head for my first failure attempt. :) ;D. Ill need pins in the concrete to put inward pressure on them for a good seal but it will make my door swing much smaller and manageable at least in my head it does. Ill report back and post some pics of my progress need to start some concrete soon.
2004 woodmizer lt40hd 33hp kubota, Cat 262B skidsteer and way to many tractors to list. www.Brotzmanswoodworks.com and www.Brotzmanscenturyfarm.com

Crusarius

Steel studs are much lighter than wood and with proper substrate on both faces will be just as stiff.

You definitely want to have a plate the doors rest on when in the closed position. Never hurts to have them supported when open either.

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