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OEM vs Aftermarket Stihl parts

Started by grb5043, August 27, 2020, 07:03:53 PM

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grb5043

I recently acquired a used Stihl 260 Pro. Before getting the saw to run I tested the compression and it was 90 psi. After running two tanks of gas through it it has 140 psi. I was looking into replacing/rebuilding the carb, fuel filter, air filter, hoses, spark plug etc. I see on eBay you can can a kit that has those items and is 1/10th of the price of OEM. Are they total garbage? What are people's experiences. Also if the saw now has 140 psi do I need to do a top end rebuild? I know that's not the ideal compression. If I do a top end rebuild what are people's experiences with aftermarket parts?

sawguy21

There is nothing wrong with 140 psi. I am not a fan of aftermarket for rebuilds, too much time and money wasted redoing it. Some products are ok others not so much. I want to do it right the first time.
old age and treachery will always overcome youth and enthusiasm

ZeroJunk

I've rebuilt them every which way you can imagine.  I have an 026 now that has a $30 cylinder kit and it runs just OK.  I had to rework the sharp edges on the ports and use OEM cir clips since the kit came with tabs and the are BAD to break where the tab just comes off and wrecks your saw.

But, it obviously does not have the power of OEM.  It's like a box of chocolates.

It's fine for a truck saw or something like that and if somebody steals it I lost $30 .

If I was making a living with it or really needed something I could depend on long term  I would use OEM.

Real1shepherd

You get what you pay for in aftermarket. You can stay with Meteor and the like and probably never get burned. However, if you're anywhere near the price of OEM, just go with OEM.

Or you can find used OEM, polish up the jug and go with that.

If you can buy a complete piston, jug, rings, wrist pin and clips for $30 or so.....what would be your expectation?

To a lot of people, just getting it started again and cutting wood is their best expectation. This follows the indentured mentality that 'cheap is always best'. I run pro saws only.....for me, they have to run like they did new and with the same kind of dependability....but that's me.

Kevin

ZeroJunk

I usually keep three saws for myself. Now I have an MS660, MS362CM, and a $30 026.  So, which one do I take when I know it will be in the back of the truck while I'm in Lowes, or the hardware store, or the convenience store. Eventually it will likely go to some neighbor for $100 with an expected and usually realized life time warranty LOL . Likely when I get it back the carb will be clogged because it hasn't been ran since they bought it.

Guys who hang out on chainsaw forums generally have a thing for chain saws. For most people they are not any more interesting or get any more use than a yard rake.

So, chainsaw forum types always want tip top OEM, maybe professionally ported, TOTL , etc.

I was that way. Now I just want it to run long enough to get whatever I am doing done, and if it is a second longer cutting cookies I couldn't care less.

There is the other world out there.

Real1shepherd

I don't give a rat's butt about GTG's and cutting cookies. I just want my pro saws to perform like they always did and should....nothing less.

When I throw four 'antique'(millennial's believe them to be if they are from the 80's or older), saws in the back to go on a job....they need to work as hard as I do.

I wouldn't begin to make absolute statements about people on chainsaw forums. Yeah, I see a lot of repeated themes, but it seems a pretty diverse community, everything said. A little too much Squeal here for my tastes.

Kevin

Spike60

I agree with both you guys. :)

AM parts that don't actually affect the way a saw runs, such as a brake handle or muffler are less likely to be an issue. Top ends, carbs, and coils are more likely to let you down and be frustrating. But they are the parts where the biggest savings lies, so they get most of the attention in these discussions.

I don't understand the "premium" aftermarket stuff such as Meteor. They are so close to OEM pricing that I see no reason for anyone to buy them. At least in the Husky world; I guess Stihl OEM kits still require a mortgage to buy one.

Some guy came in last week with a 372 kit from Baileys that he payed $160 for. My God, that's what I sell the OEM kits for. And the Baileys kit looked like it was made by Hyway; which is garbage IMO. But ya know, it was 52mm "Big Bore" and people are always eager to overpay for any kit with big bore written on the box. :)
Husqvarna-Jonsered
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ZeroJunk

Quote from: Real1shepherd on August 28, 2020, 11:39:34 PMI just want my pro saws to perform like they always did and should....nothing less.


I,I,I,I.   That is my point. Most people out there have no idea how they always performed or care as long as it does a job once in a blue moon.

There are different markets out there and one isn't terribly interested in the way another wants to put money in it.

Real1shepherd

Quote from: Spike60 on August 29, 2020, 06:28:56 AM
I agree with both you guys. :)

AM parts that don't actually affect the way a saw runs, such as a brake handle or muffler are less likely to be an issue. Top ends, carbs, and coils are more likely to let you down and be frustrating. But they are the parts where the biggest savings lies, so they get most of the attention in these discussions.

I don't understand the "premium" aftermarket stuff such as Meteor. They are so close to OEM pricing that I see no reason for anyone to buy them. At least in the Husky world; I guess Stihl OEM kits still require a mortgage to buy one.

Some guy came in last week with a 372 kit from Baileys that he payed $160 for. My God, that's what I sell the OEM kits for. And the Baileys kit looked like it was made by Hyway; which is garbage IMO. But ya know, it was 52mm "Big Bore" and people are always eager to overpay for any kit with big bore written on the box. :)
You'd think that most who are approaching the price of OEM with an aftermarket kit, would just go with the OEM kit. But I guess that logic doesn't always follow through. And Squeal has crazy prices on OEM kits......

Kevin

Real1shepherd

Quote from: ZeroJunk on August 29, 2020, 09:58:25 AM
Quote from: Real1shepherd on August 28, 2020, 11:39:34 PMI just want my pro saws to perform like they always did and should....nothing less.


I,I,I,I.   That is my point. Most people out there have no idea how they always performed or care as long as it does a job once in a blue moon.

There are different markets out there and one isn't terribly interested in the way another wants to put money in it.
I don't know where we got off on the wrong foot, but so be it. Sound better to you if "I" had said 'he, he, he and he'?

We're giving opinions here and they don't matter for much other than your 2 cents. You do what you want and I'll do what I want....hopefully, we don't have to ever meet.

Kevin

ZeroJunk

LOL.  You are saying that everybody needs to do it the way you do it.

I do it the way the customer decides he wants to do it.  Or, tell the customer how it was done whatever that may be. OEM or aftermarket, doesns't really matter to me.

That simple.

Don't think I would start threatening people over a disagreement on a forum.

Real1shepherd

Quote from: ZeroJunk on August 29, 2020, 10:08:46 AM
LOL.  You are saying that everybody needs to do it the way you do it.

I do it the way the customer decides he wants to do it.  Or, tell the customer how it was done whatever that may be. OEM or aftermarket, doesns't really matter to me.

That simple.

Don't think I would start threatening people over a disagreement on a forum.
Show me where I'm threatening anybody. Just said I hope we never meet....didn't say I'd do anything to you if we did.

And you don't get the part about opinions on saw forums. You're just as stubborn about your opinions and the way you want to do things. Who's right in this case(?)....let the readers decide......and they will. Members should be free to choose and benefit from a wealth of real world knowledge.

Never said anyone should do saw repair the way I do....but always interested in "friendly" arguments against....not ridicule or disdain.  

Kevin

weimedog

Am vs. OEM. interesting and not really complex for me. OEM always should be the first choice if available and can be afforded. Period. And this isn't simply related to parts hat effect how a saw runs as well...and example? Chain Brake Levers for MS660's...some of the AM stuff were just to soft. Eventually they would take a permanent new shape....interfering with the top of the muffler....and would "catch" there making it real hard if not impossible to reset the chain brake, now effecting how that saw runs. Because it can't work with the brake on! Another? Bar studs....some AM's were just way too soft. Nothing like being in the woods after carrying that saw and striping the bar studs when adjusting chain tension. How about when a pull start frags while you are working. And my personal favorite, the handle bar bending the first time you have to pull a saw out of a pinch...to the point it looks like skidder damage. So the kind of things that are low risk for AM? Top covers. :) Problem is on some hobby saws, with OEM parts becoming "NLA", in those cases used or AM can be the ONLY option.

Having said that the educational value of de-bugging a kit saw is hard to quantify, same with the fun factor. I really enjoyed developing the kit 660's. But not certain I have the desire to do a 2.0. And now they compete with where I really want to go with the saw hobby....old metal saws colored red, where I started in the hobby journey many years ago. ( Even here, can find some of those rambling from over a decade ago )

And in the Husqvarna world anything but an OEM top end to me is a waste because of Husqvarna's pricing.

To the OP.. for me, the Stihl AM options in fact sometimes are a legitimate option because of price. But that's a qualified "sometimes". And Meteor & Hyway getting cozy muddies those waters as well.

So for me the bottom line is if it is a saw that needs to be reliable...OEM every time.

For hobby and education sometimes AM really works well. Said it for years and nothing has changed my mind on the subject....as I continue to run both "Bling Saw" and my Chinese 372 builds...but always with an OEM build of some sort in the truck as insurance.
Husqvarna 365sp/372xpw Blend, Jonsered 2171 51.4mm XPW build,562xp HTSS, 560 HTSS, 272XP, 61/272XP, 555, 257, 242, 238, Homelite S-XL 925, XP-1020A, Super XL (Dad's saw); Jonsered 2094, Three 920's, CS-2172, Solo 603; 3 Huztl MS660's (2 54mm and 1 56mm)

ZeroJunk

Quote from: Real1shepherd on August 29, 2020, 10:27:52 AMnot ridicule or disdain.


You are reading something that was never there.

Al_Smith

I've done them both ways with OEM and after market .So far none that I know of have failed .None have failed using good used parts either .
Now of course if you get stingy with the oil in the gas mix or try to make them rev like a model airplane engine they are doomed to fail .

ZeroJunk

Here's a really happened what if for you.  My farmer neighbor down the road had one of his migrant workers straight gas his MS180, for the second time.

How would you repair this saw ?

weimedog

Toss it and buy another Admin language edit like that one?  ::) Explore electric options? :o Do a better job of controlling what fuel mix is available and goes IN the new "Admin language edit" ? :)
Husqvarna 365sp/372xpw Blend, Jonsered 2171 51.4mm XPW build,562xp HTSS, 560 HTSS, 272XP, 61/272XP, 555, 257, 242, 238, Homelite S-XL 925, XP-1020A, Super XL (Dad's saw); Jonsered 2094, Three 920's, CS-2172, Solo 603; 3 Huztl MS660's (2 54mm and 1 56mm)

Al_Smith

At the risk of bad humor I was going to say remove the bar and chain.Tie a rope around the handle and use it for a boat anchor for a very small boat .

ZeroJunk

Probably not bad ideas.  I put a Chinese motor in it and charged him $50 total.

As far as controlling the fuel he probably did it himself and just blamed it on the Mexicans.

You might be surprised how many saws I get full of diesel fuel.  And, it's always the grand kids or somebody.  Yeah right.

Al_Smith

Well more than one has dumped bar oil in the gas tank .It doesn't kill them but my oh my once they finally get started they do blow smoke a long while .
Now I don't recall ever doing that but I did anti freeze a weed wacker by grabbing the wrong jug .Which didn't occur to me until a few days later I mix gassed my tractor radiator .Things happen you know .

Real1shepherd

Quote from: ZeroJunk on August 29, 2020, 11:30:32 AM
Quote from: Real1shepherd on August 29, 2020, 10:27:52 AMnot ridicule or disdain.


You are reading something that was never there.
"I,I,I,I" is ridicule. It was to suggest that "I" was overused in my posting and "I" was preaching to do it only my way. Has it come down now to counting the number of times "I" is used in postings to indicate dictatorship? Do "I" get to go back and count the number of "I's" in your past posting to mean something as well?

"I" have no problem with you running a small engine shop and putting in $35 P&C kits for those that want it. Your justification was that the saws are mostly little used anyway, so it's no big deal. And that the owners wouldn't know the difference anyway. All I did was counter that some of us DO know, there are alternatives to the $35 P&C kits and the reasons for such.

Kevin

Real1shepherd

Quote from: weimedog on August 29, 2020, 10:56:44 AM
Am vs. OEM. interesting and not really complex for me. OEM always should be the first choice if available and can be afforded. Period. And this isn't simply related to parts hat effect how a saw runs as well...and example? Chain Brake Levers for MS660's...some of the AM stuff were just to soft. Eventually they would take a permanent new shape....interfering with the top of the muffler....and would "catch" there making it real hard if not impossible to reset the chain brake, now effecting how that saw runs. Because it can't work with the brake on! Another? Bar studs....some AM's were just way too soft. Nothing like being in the woods after carrying that saw and striping the bar studs when adjusting chain tension. How about when a pull start frags while you are working. And my personal favorite, the handle bar bending the first time you have to pull a saw out of a pinch...to the point it looks like skidder damage. So the kind of things that are low risk for AM? Top covers. :) Problem is on some hobby saws, with OEM parts becoming "NLA", in those cases used or AM can be the ONLY option.

Having said that the educational value of de-bugging a kit saw is hard to quantify, same with the fun factor. I really enjoyed developing the kit 660's. But not certain I have the desire to do a 2.0. And now they compete with where I really want to go with the saw hobby....old metal saws colored red, where I started in the hobby journey many years ago. ( Even here, can find some of those rambling from over a decade ago )

And in the Husqvarna world anything but an OEM top end to me is a waste because of Husqvarna's pricing.

To the OP.. for me, the Stihl AM options in fact sometimes are a legitimate option because of price. But that's a qualified "sometimes". And Meteor & Hyway getting cozy muddies those waters as well.

So for me the bottom line is if it is a saw that needs to be reliable...OEM every time.

For hobby and education sometimes AM really works well. Said it for years and nothing has changed my mind on the subject....as I continue to run both "Bling Saw" and my Chinese 372 builds...but always with an OEM build of some sort in the truck as insurance.
Whoa....care to elaborate on the Meteor/Hyway connection....this sounds really dark. franken-smiley

Kevin

ZeroJunk

Quote from: Real1shepherd on August 29, 2020, 04:43:12 PM"I,I,I,I" is ridicule. I


 Others may not want what you want.  Others being opposite of I . Simple concept, nothing ridiculing about it.

Real1shepherd

Quote from: Al_Smith on August 29, 2020, 02:37:04 PM
Well more than one has dumped bar oil in the gas tank .It doesn't kill them but my oh my once they finally get started they do blow smoke a long while .
Now I don't recall ever doing that but I did anti freeze a weed wacker by grabbing the wrong jug .Which didn't occur to me until a few days later I mix gassed my tractor radiator .Things happen you know .
Yeah they do. After a really long day (and I'm a firm advocate not to run chainsaws more than about eight hrs straight), I dumped bar oil into the gas tank. What a mess. I bet that smoke cloud is still hovering over WA somewhere. :)

Kevin

Real1shepherd

Quote from: ZeroJunk on August 29, 2020, 04:56:05 PM
Quote from: Real1shepherd on August 29, 2020, 04:43:12 PM"I,I,I,I" is ridicule. I


Others may not want what you want.  Others being opposite of I . Simple concept, nothing ridiculing about it.
Obviously, and it shouldn't have to be even stated in a chainsaw forum, with everyone giving opinions.

Would it have been better for 'you' if "I" had used "IMHO"? Or does that offend your sensibilities as well?

Kevin

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