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What do you use for lube on the WM rails?

Started by DanMc, November 15, 2023, 06:51:42 AM

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Magicman

 

 
This seems like a non-issue to me.  This is taken after a 4 day slow drizzle and those rust spots will be gone after the first couple of passes with the sawmill head.  As I said in Reply #2 above, my 1998 sawmill has lived outside without a cover for 25 years and there is absolutely no pitting, etc.  I believe that it will survive.  
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

Dan_Shade

I think oil washing off the chain is of larger concern than the rail 
Woodmizer LT40HDG25 / Stihl 066 alaskan
lots of dull bands and chains

There's a fine line between turning firewood into beautiful things and beautiful things into firewood.

Magicman

Which is why I always do all of my sawmill oiling, i.e; mast, chains, log clamp, middle track oiler, side support linkage, etc. in the morning before I begin sawing.

I fill the fuel & lube jugs in the evening after sawing. 
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

caveman

I use a variety of ATF, currently Honda.  Not that it is any better than anything else, it's just what I got a bit of for free.  I don't like leaving equipment out in the elements.  We did not have rain for a month, so I left the edger out.  It has been raining for three days and I feel like an irresponsible co-owner.  The shed will be extended before too much longer.  

Caveman

SawyerTed

Rust is supposed to be a bad thing.  I get that.  

 Only thing is my new LT50 rail looked much like Magicman's photo.  Once I got it home and put a couple of hours on it, the rail was fairly bright. 

I suppose if it bothers a fellow, a light sanding with a fine wet dry paper and a coat of metal polish or wax would prevent the rust in between sawing sessions.  

But, as Mom used to say, "Don't borrow trouble."

I put  the ATF on it before and after sawing.  Keeping the felt pads well lubed with ATF is the ticket. 
Woodmizer LT50, WM BMS 250, WM BMT 250, Kubota MX5100, IH McCormick Farmall 140, Husqvarna 372XP, Husqvarna 455 Rancher

DanMc

Thanks for all the feedback on this issue.   It's good to know that a little rust is OK.  But no rust is still better.   It's also good to hear that these machines are OK being out in the elements for years.  I'd assume that you put a tarp over the head.  

Unfortunately, I am not retired yet, so my mill will only see occasional use.   That means it will sit outside any time it's in MA.   In NH, I can squeeze it into the garsge next to the tractor, where it will probably spend the winter.

If I continue to use the bar oil, I'll wipe it down with ATF before running the mill so dust doesn't get mashed onto the rail.  
LT35HDG25
JD 4600, JD2210, JD332 tractors.
28 acres of trees, Still have all 10 fingers.
Jesus is Lord.

Magicman

Quote from: DanMc on November 18, 2023, 07:54:51 AMI'd assume that you put a tarp over the head.



 Yes, my engine, control box, and fuel & lube jugs are covered.  A full sawhead cover is available but I do not have one.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

chickenchaser

I've had more issues with the bottom rail keeping good contact. I use steel wool or the green ScotchBrite pads. Usually dry. 
I still have areas with intermittent or no current for hydraulics. I'm assuming it means I need to clean or adjust the ground block??

CC
WoodMizer LT35HD

JD 3720 w/loader. 1983 Chevrolet C30 dump. 1973 Ford F600 w/stickloader. 35,000 chickens.

OlJarhead

 

 
Since February 2016 my mill has lived like this 😀
2016 LT40HD26 and Mahindra 5010 W/FEL WM Hundred Thousand BF Club Member

Peter Drouin

Lots of times the brass block that goes to the copper strip is not rubbing hard enough, Look for burn spots on the copper strip when the hydro not working well.
A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.

chickenchaser

Peter
I do see that and have occasionally buffed up the strip but I haven't checked the block lately. 
Thanks for the reminder. 
WoodMizer LT35HD

JD 3720 w/loader. 1983 Chevrolet C30 dump. 1973 Ford F600 w/stickloader. 35,000 chickens.

OlJarhead

That can do it ;)  I had to replace mine in my battle with hydraulics...in the end the pump motor was the issue with the brushes being worn down but the contact was also a problem so the two things made it harder to diagnose. 
2016 LT40HD26 and Mahindra 5010 W/FEL WM Hundred Thousand BF Club Member

barbender

 A bad contact can probably hasten the demise of your brushes, too. 

 On my Super, one set of my pump brushes were toast at around 1200 hours. I pulled the brushes on the other motor expecting the same, and they looked like new🤷 I suspect some unbalanced voltage or something from the contact strip, maybe one motor got enough juice and the other one was starved a bit.
Too many irons in the fire

Magicman

Your unbalance was most probably from one solenoid making a better contact than the other.  I experienced the same situation with my Super.  LINK

Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

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