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E-Classic 1450 - Damper Door won't close

Started by escyoc, November 21, 2015, 11:35:06 AM

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escyoc

Hi, I have a E-Classic 1450 and the damper door won't close.  Any suggestions on how I can get it to shut?   I talked to the dealer, but, he wasn't able to help.   Thanks for the input.

doctorb

Won't close because the mechanism is broken, or won't close because of creosote buildup?
My father once said, "This is my son who wanted to grow up and become a doctor.  So far, he's only become a doctor."

escyoc

Thanks for responding - won't close because mechanism is broken.

doctorb

if your dealer is clueless then I'd call CB.  I am positive that you are not the first one to report such a failure and they will have a solution.
My father once said, "This is my son who wanted to grow up and become a doctor.  So far, he's only become a doctor."

r.man

Any pictures? Are you hoping for info for a full fix only or would a temporary fix help for now?
Life is too short or my list is too long, not sure which. Dec 2014

JJ

Open clean-out on back of chimney.  Should be able to push it closed with a stick.  You can push it back open from door.

   JJ

Ih collector

I'm in my 3rd year haven't had that happen but post the fix to help us in case,love the thing had the firestar go after one year but been great now think there was trouble with the ones they put in them and now corrected,works great my wife loves it!!
Farmer,lineman,sawyer wood-mizer lt40

thecfarm

Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

escyoc

Thanks for all the replies.   I fixed it.  Here is what I did:  The problem was the inside damper door stayed open and bypass handle did not have any tension on it and the bypass beeper stayed on.  I took the back covers off where heat exchanger tubes are inside.  I saw that everything was hooked up there  - the rod went through the heat exchanger to outside of heat exchanger.  So I took screws out of roof and looked down the side toward bypass handle and saw rod from bypass handle had come out of turn buckle nut.  Had to take off side panels on furnace which exposed the bypass handle, etc.   So that it wouldn't happen again, I put one nut back on each rod and and tightened the 2 new nuts against the turn buckle.  One rod was connected to bypass door and the other rod connected to damper.  I put turn buckle nut back together and the handle worked.  However, the inside damper had 1/2 inch opening - wasn't closing all the way.   Had to take it back apart and adjust handle and damper.  Was very tricky, but, was able to get it where handle was down, beeper was off and the damper was sealed inside.  I had to have someone hold the damper door shut and one person holding bypass door about 1/3 of the way open and then put turn buckle on and had to adjust it that way until I had it.

doctorb

My father once said, "This is my son who wanted to grow up and become a doctor.  So far, he's only become a doctor."

thecfarm

escyoc,I missed you being a new member. Welcome to the forum. Glad you could fix it!!
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

Logging logginglogging

I have had my bypass loose bolts out of it in the back before as well, usually easy to fix in the back of the stove. I usually take the whole mechanism out in the summer when I am cleaning the stove so I can inspect it and clean it. Usually This I will notice if I have loose nuts and bolts or not. I double nut the stuff too and haven't had the problem again.

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