Author Topic: NEW Central Boiler Install (Read 9985 times)

kvacresfarm · « **Reply #40 on:** November 12, 2018, 06:59:09 AM »

Do you think the water to air heat exchanger will get hot enough to damage the air conditioning coils plastic condensing tray? It’s one of those units with the plastic drip tray.

DDW_OR · « **Reply #41 on:** November 12, 2018, 12:30:14 PM »

i have a cheap indoor/outdoor thermometer connected to the coil and the temp is usually around 180 deg F

so melting plastic, no. deforming it, yes.

hedgerow · « **Reply #42 on:** November 12, 2018, 05:06:09 PM »

Quote from: kvacresfarm on November 12, 2018, 06:59:09 AM

Do you think the water to air heat exchanger will get hot enough to damage the air conditioning coils plastic condensing tray? It’s one of those units with the plastic drip tray.

I have three furnaces in my house all up flow furnaces with water to air heat exchanger's in them and two are set up with the exchanger under the A coil and one above the A coil and I haven't had any issues with damage to the plastic A coil pans. They have been in service for 10 years.

kvacresfarm · « **Reply #43 on:** November 12, 2018, 05:29:54 PM »

Are they below the a coil with spacing or is the heat exchanger touching the a coil? I’ve seen them installed like that. A friend of mine has the central 5036 boiler and the heat exchanger is mounted in the plenum directly below the a coil, but it looks like there is 2-3” of spacing between the exchanger and a coil.

J 5 · « **Reply #44 on:** November 12, 2018, 06:51:21 PM »

I have run 2 furnaces with A coils about 4 inches above the heater cores for 19 years with no melting or deforming of the plastic trays. Temp at max is usually 160 -165 f .
J 5

MNBobcat · « **Reply #45 on:** December 23, 2018, 05:58:44 PM »

The furnace HX should always be plumbed so that the return line on the HX is where the cool air enters the HX coil.

The return line is going to be the lower temperature water. You want that side of the coil to pre-warm the air passing through the coil and and you want the air leaving the coil going into the home should be as hot as possible.

So you want the air exit side of the coil to be the side that the hot input pex connects to. This is opposite of the way most people plumb these things, but it's the most efficient.

Pre-warm the air and then raise the air to the hottest possible temperature before it leaves the HX and goes into the house.

DDW_OR · « **Reply #46 on:** January 05, 2019, 02:32:03 AM »

I got a Flir C2 thermal camera.
the pictures are here
Installing a New CB Edge 750 HD this weekend! in Firewood and Wood Heating

DDW_OR · « **Reply #47 on:** January 08, 2019, 01:14:33 PM »

I did some searching and found this for install on an AC a-coil

install-Central-Boiler-standard-heat-pump-c240

hedgerow · « **Reply #48 on:** January 08, 2019, 05:51:10 PM »

Quote from: kvacresfarm on November 12, 2018, 05:29:54 PM

Are they below the a coil with spacing or is the heat exchanger touching the a coil? I’ve seen them installed like that. A friend of mine has the central 5036 boiler and the heat exchanger is mounted in the plenum directly below the a coil, but it looks like there is 2-3” of spacing between the exchanger and a coil.

The two I have that are under the A coil are a couple of inches under the A coil pans as later model LP furnaces were installed and were shorter than the original furnaces were so there was room to install them there but not room above the A coil. Hasn't bothered the A coils in 10 years.

DDW_OR · « **Reply #49 on:** November 27, 2020, 01:13:23 PM »

Quote from: DDW_OR on September 08, 2016, 05:57:19 PM

will be posting what i do and what i should Not do.

Now for what i did wrong. Very wrong
First - too big of furnace for just house and water heater
Second - long burns, more than 1 day, mostly a slow smolder = LOTS OF CREOSOTE
Third - inadequate cleaning, tight fit getting into the firebox, I am 52, 250 pounds, 5 ft 10 in

the platform is the crate the riding mower came in, Very handy for lots of things.

DDW_OR · « **Reply #50 on:** November 27, 2020, 01:20:41 PM »

first stage of cleaning

only good use for the masks
but only blocks large partials, small partials still get into the lungs.

DDW_OR · « **Reply #51 on:** November 27, 2020, 01:30:55 PM »

in the future i will be replacing the 750 with one of the new HDX models
also spray foam insulate the 30x64x12 pole barn and adding heating

the 750 will give me an idea of what HDX will be needed with the added heating load.

still plan to add a hot tub and greenhouse to the load.

E Yoder · « **Reply #52 on:** November 28, 2020, 07:31:39 AM »

I'd spray some diesel down the exchanger and light it up, blow air through it with a leaf blower. Rather than scraping it off.

DDW_OR · « **Reply #53 on:** November 29, 2020, 11:56:16 AM »

Quote from: E Yoder on November 28, 2020, 07:31:39 AM

I'd spray some diesel down the exchanger and light it up, blow air through it with a leaf blower. Rather than scraping it off.

I will try that with the second half.
will see what i have, on hand, to spray the diesel
will use a shop vac to blow

E Yoder · « **Reply #54 on:** November 30, 2020, 05:24:03 AM »

Just keep an eye on the area at the top by the chimney, I don't know if it's water cooled, don't want to melt spray foam.

DDW_OR · « **Reply #55 on:** November 30, 2020, 01:52:28 PM »

did not do the diesel

got two 5 gallon buckets of creosote

filled the CB, only had one gallon of rust preventer, more are on order
started fire, reaction chamber is only at 900 deg.

there are clinkers in the air box
now going to let fire die, water temp drop, and clean the air channels
Maybe another 2 gallons of creosote?

E Yoder · « **Reply #56 on:** December 01, 2020, 04:59:15 AM »

Wow, that sounds like fun. It must be still choked somewhere.

DDW_OR · « **Reply #57 on:** December 01, 2020, 01:28:52 PM »

had air in the heating loop

shut off valve above pump
used a washer machine hose to hook up the garden hose to the heating loop
turned on the water to push the air out of the loop

in-house temp was 80, now 144

boilerman101 · « **Reply #58 on:** December 02, 2020, 11:13:00 PM »

I have a 2015 Edge 750 as well. I spend 5-10 minutes every Saturday scraping walls and corners in firebox. Then pump chains up and down/back and forth in the rear echanger. After 5 years I still have not taken those rear exchanger panels off ever and chains pump freely. Took panel below loading door and side air channels off over the summer for just the 2nd time for a good cleaning. Was getting around 1,000 degree reaction chamber temps last year and now getting 1,200-1,300 degree temps. I think the key to less maintenance is making sure you are reaching 900+ degree temps each burn cycle. I also run at a 190 degree set point which seems to keep the firebox a little drier. I run at a 10 degree differential, 50 second air pulse every 25 minutes. Once you finish that clean up, maybe you want to try some of my methods and maybe it will not make that much mess again. I have a fairly light heatload as well with just a 2,300 sq ft house. In my mind a burn cycle is a burn cycle and just want it to burn good and hot during that cycle to keep creosote build up down.

DDW_OR · « **Reply #59 on:** August 26, 2022, 01:57:30 AM »

will be getting a 760 HDX for the Montana property.
with antifreeze rated for 0 deg F

1 1/4 loop
House
Domestic hot water
garage
Hot tub

3/4 loop
Polebarn 30x60x14
shop inside polebarn 30x20

other 3/4 Loop, on demand pump hooked up to an in-ground temp probe
Greenhouse with in-ground heat loop kept at 40 deg
loop will be in a 3 foot deep insulated grow pit
dig down 3 ft, spray foam on pit walls and 80% of bottom
then add double loop of Pex
fill with black dirt
may use an old water heater as a thermo reservoir
grow tomatoes in the dirt, using string like the commercial growers do
keep it so i can exchange the soil every few years.

Forestry ForumSponsored by:

Author Topic: NEW Central Boiler Install (Read 9985 times)

Forestry Forum
Sponsored by: