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Got a question on building with green logs

Started by Treeclimber, February 29, 2016, 08:22:56 PM

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Treeclimber

So I'm building a log cabin out of syp. IM almost done with all my walls I'm take tree sawing them Into 8x10 and stacking them on top of each other with butt and pass method all the wood is pretty green. I'm laying a bead of caulk inbetween the logs to seal out air. My question is will I tun into and kind of Rot or fungus growing in between the logs that I can't see were there sitting flat on each other? Thanks for help!

Brad_bb

Please read over your post.  I'm having trouble understanding " I'm take tree sawing them Into 8x10..."   and "My question is will I tun into and kind of Rot or fungus growing in between the logs that I can't see were there sitting flat on each other? "  I can't understand these parts due to mis-spelling and maybe wrong words or words missing?
Anything someone can design, I can sure figure out how to fix!
If I say it\\\\\\\'s going to take so long, multiply that by at least 3!

Treeclimber

Sorry bout that ha! So this is what I'm doing. I'm sawing syp into 8x10 cants then  Stacking them green on top of each other in butt and pass form. I've actually finished the walls. I'll be bleaching the outside and inside of logs then be  putting a borax solution on them. My question is about the surfaces where  the logs are touching each other in the stack. will there be a problem with Rot and fungus growing were logs are touching each other and can't be seen? I'll be getting a roof on soon so this should speed up drying rapidly but I know there is moisture there coming from logs as they dry.


1938farmall

seems like you are pretty far along on your build to do much about the log joints.  imo, your best chance to keep weather out would be an extra large roof overhang.
aka oldnorskie

starmac

It sounds like he is talking more about moisture from green logs, not the weather.
I am wondering the same thing. I know many log cabins or houses has been built from green logs with no problem, but am wondering about the squared logs, as there is a lot more surface area to be touching.
Old LT40HD, old log truck, old MM forklift, and several huskies.

Treeclimber

Yes roof will have bout 2ft over hang and there will be porches on three sides I'm more concerned bout the moisture from the logs being green. Only thing between logs is a bead of caulk that runs on the outside edge.

Treeclimber

The logs have been getting rained on during the project but havnt had much issue with mold just some blue stain and a little mold that I've been spraying bleach on. It will soon have a roof on it wich will start the drying process. So if there is mold growing between the logs on the surface where they are contacting each other once the log walls dry out will this mold die or is it a concern?

Treeclimber

pics of the cabin are posted in my gallery

Fundyheather

The Finns old style log construction had the logs grooved out and bedded with damp moss in a moist climate with with no fungal problems noted.  Therefore I'd say get the roof on soon and some heat in there and expect everything should be fine.

Nice gallery and nice build you have going there. 
Good luck with it.   

fishfighter

I had nailed down some green SYP subfloor on the camp I'm building. I was thinking I might have a chance of mold growing in between floorings, so I pulled up a couple to check after about two months of drying. All was good.

Magicman

Welcome to the Forestry Forum, Treeclimber.  How about adding your town/location to your profile so that we will know.   :)
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Seaman

I love it !  Cannot help with your question, except all the log cabins put up around here 200 years were put up quick, and lasted a long time.
Lucas dedicated slabber
Woodmizer LT40HD
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69bronco

Can't help with the mold issue, but your build looks great! How are you anchoring the logs?

Brad_bb

I have never done what you're doing or any log building.  The only thing I can say from my experience is that moisture with some sap (food source) in a dark place is a good environment for mold growth.  Once the moisture level drops enough it won't be.  I had some freshly peeled spruce logs that I put right in my dark shed, and they grew mold on the surface.  I was able to remove it with a 5% bleach solution from a garden sprayer.  Had I let the logs dry enough on the outside, it probably would not have done that.  I did the bleach cleaning several weeks after I noticed the mold.  By that time the logs were dry enough on the outside that it was no longer growing.  So once I sprayed the bleach solution to remove the mold, it was too dry for it to return. 

Given that experience, I would think it you had your timbers outside for a couple weeks before building with them, they would probably be dry enough that they wouldn't mold.  I would not caulk/chink the logs immediately to give them enough time to surface dry.

Just curious, are you sealing the end grain of the logs with Anchorseal?  So that they will dry more evenly?
Anything someone can design, I can sure figure out how to fix!
If I say it\\\\\\\'s going to take so long, multiply that by at least 3!

Treeclimber

The logs are being anchored with oly log home screws bout every 18 inches.... I'm not sealing end grain with anything but Thompson water seal syp doesn't check to bad what I've observed and been told

scully

I built my cabin out of green maple logs . I made 2 flat sides and spiked them with 1/2" rebar that I beat points onto . With shrinkage etc. they did real well ,my only trouble is powder post bore beattles  . I have done everything imaginable to kill them . The only thing I see that you maybe should not have done is caulk . It seems that may limit air drying . One thing I wish I would have done is cut a 2or3 inch deep kurf down the center of each  log ,I feel this would have helped over all drying etc . At the end of the day I can say I believe you will have a good cabin for a very long time . As for your post ...It's okay about wording and spelling I understood just fine. I can't spell worth a darn !
I bleed orange  .

Treeclimber

Any suggestion on whether I should go head and stain and seal the outsides? Logs have been stacked  for bout 3 months now. Or wait till the logs cure to under 20% moisture and then stain and seal  ..... This could take over a year what stain and sealant would yall use on syp to allow it to cure if this was best route

barbender

     You will get some fungus growing on the mating surfaces between green logs, but probably not enough to bother anything. That means, if you disassembled it, you would look between the logs and say "that mold and fungus is ugly!", but being that you're not, out of sight, out of mind ;)  Get a roof on it so it start drying, and it's not getting rained on to add more moisture.  I found that a solution of 20 mule team borax would kill fungus until rain washed it away, you could probably spray between logs as you are building.
Too many irons in the fire

Treeclimber

I've got roof on it. Logs moisture content are at bout 32%

Fundyheather

Good go!   
Hope you have time to show us a picture.

Treeclimber

I still have yet to figure out how to post pic to this thread. It is possible to do off a phone correct ?because I don't have a computer

kristingreen

This board won't allow you to attach photos to a post. Instead, it requires that you specify the URL of the photo that is hosted elsewhere. Luckily, you can use the provided 'gallery' here on this board to make this happen.

When composing your post, you'll see a link below the text area that says, 'Click here to add Photos to post'. That will open a second window that will allow you to upload your photos to your gallery. The trick here is that you must create 'albums' and specify an album each time. Once uploaded, you should see a button that says, 'Insert image in post'. All this does is take you back to the other window and it pastes in the URL of the picture between IMG tags.

Alternatively, you can put in the tags yourself (click on the 'Insert Image' button in the tool bar) and just paste or type in the URL of the image you wish to share.

Hope this helps.

PC-Urban-Sawyer

Quote from: kristingreen on May 10, 2016, 08:15:03 AM
This board won't allow you to attach photos to a post. Instead, it requires that you specify the URL of the photo that is hosted elsewhere. Luckily, you can use the provided 'gallery' here on this board to make this happen.

When composing your post, you'll see a link below the text area that says, 'Click here to add Photos to post'. That will open a second window that will allow you to upload your photos to your gallery. The trick here is that you must create 'albums' and specify an album each time. Once uploaded, you should see a button that says, 'Insert image in post'. All this does is take you back to the other window and it pastes in the URL of the picture between IMG tags.

Alternatively, you can put in the tags yourself (click on the 'Insert Image' button in the tool bar) and just paste or type in the URL of the image you wish to share.

Hope this helps.

Kristingreen,

You are correct that users are not allowed to post photos directly in the posts here on the Forestry Forum.

You are in error when you state that the photos most be hosted "somewhere else" since the only allowable location for the photos is in the Gallery here at the Forestry Forum. 

This policy is to prevent the dreaded missing photo icon that you see on so many forums where somebody had linked to a photo at some place else such as photob*cket and then later removed the photo from that location...

Detailed instruction on photo uploading is provided at https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,61788.0.html

I'm not sure how different it is using a phone but it shouldn't be too hard since several users do it every day.

Good Luck!

Herb

Treeclimber

Well any ways there's pics posted in my gallery if u want to check progress out that's as far as I can get pics haha......

Back to my question though any suggestions?
Also I'm gonna saw syp for my porches... They will be covered should I have any concerns on rot? Not to worried as much with porch rafters as the floor joists and decking

fishfighter

For the SYP floor joist. On my camp build, that is what I used. Still have the front porch to build. Before putting the decking down, I plan on treating them. A mixture of one gallon of roofing tar mixed with a little over a half gallon of diesel, just paint it on. Don't get it on you, it will burn and of course it's messy. :D

The dryer the joist are, the more they will suck up the treatment.

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