Woodstove Brainpicking

[tcsmpsi]

I have burned wood primarily for heat for quite a while.  I've used most things available at one time or another.  Old, open fireplaces, box heaters, the 'mod' freestanding, cone-shaped fireplace, pot-belly stove, sheet-metal rendition of a cast iron box heater, Ben Franklin (tried everything for about 3 weeks to get 'satisfaction' from it...and didn't), and what I've been using the last 20 yrs or so, a good ol' cast iron parlor stove. 

Mine has developed a couple of cracks, small holes and has just overall been an excellent provider, but  I am looking at replacing or upgrading.

I've had a moment to do a little checking, but not much in depth, and am not going to spend bookoo bucks to burn wood.

I did find another parlor stove, Vogelzang for about 350% more than I gave for mine new. 

I am curious, about many of the others in that price range, with glas doors, sealed doors, etc., sheet metal construction, have less rated btu's than the parlor stove.

For anyone that might know, is that a 'paper number' matter, or do they really burn wood that much cooler?

I might would like to get in to something like that, but not if it's not going to produce the heat or last me like my old parlor stove has.

Any thoughts or ideas in the matter would sure be appreciated.

[SwampDonkey]

I think you have to look at efficiency as much as anything. Also, I find cast iron made stoves have more radiant heat, meaning it takes longer for the firebox to cool down. With that thin stuff, your cooling down faster. Even a heavy cast firebox in a furnace gives more heat (longer duration) for each load of wood into it, again because it doesn't cool down as fast. A good draft and damper makes a lot of difference to as does the wood moisture. With good seasoned wood you should be able to close down the draft and damper (not close up tight) and have a good flame and that's when you really get the heat radiating off the appliance. Everything wide open and a lot of heat is going out the flu and getting the flu dangerously hot. If you have a good damper and draft and still need everything wide open then your wood isn't seasoned too well. A good drying shed is a lot better than sitting out in all the rain and ground dampness. Sitting out in the weather for 2 years and calling it seasoned is a stretch. ;)

[beenthere]

I've enjoyed the looks, feel, and performance of the Vermont Castings Defiant.. a whole lot.

But then, I can enjoy the simple barrel stove too...just can't beat some wood heat. ;D ;D

[tyb525]

We have a "Federal Airtight" by Dutchwest India. It's a cast iron stove with glass in the front doors and a side door to put the wood in, all are sealed. It has a catalytic converter and a blower, and it seems to work really well. No idea how much it cost though, or if it is even made anymore.

[Ron Wenrich]

Mine's a soapstone stove.  It has a cast frame with 2 half inch thick pieces of soapstone all the way around.  Holds heat for a long time.  I've had it for about 25 years and it will last another 25.  It was expensive then, but it has outlasted most stoves.

[tcsmpsi]

Well, Swamp, I'm not too concerned about being effecient.  I just want the house warm when it's cold outside.   ;D

Actually, the parlor stove that I saw available from Voglezang (which is just like the one I have), has a 'btu rating of 88,000' and will 'heat up to 1800 sq ft'.  One of the things that I like about it, is the ability to load it from the top, in which I can get much bigger wood into than from either of the doors.  And, we do use it to cook during the winter, from time to time.

The retail on it is about $900 I believe, but have seen it 'on sale' for $599 (+ considerable shipping, of course).  I gave $249 for mine (not 'on sale') over 20 yrs ago. 

The other things in that round about price range, are steel plate (I know, I called it sheet metal) from Vogelzang, US Stove, etc. 

Does anyone have any experience with any of those?  (Defender, Moutaineer, Highlander, etc.)

That Vermont Castings is a good looking stove alright, beenthere.  Is yours the catalytic or non?  And, if you don't mind me asking, about how much was it?

I have wondered about the soapstone, Ron.  I haven't been able to find pricing on any of them yet (haven't looked to hard, though).

Can you cook on it? 

[Warbird]

Mine is a Blaze King "ultra".  Huge firebox, catalytic, dedicated air intake, dual fan blower kit which also acts as a rear heat shield.  It ain't that purdy but it has been the most functional wood stove I'd had the pleasure of using.



If you don't want to go with a catalyst, I recommend you get a reburner type.  Either one, along with a direct air intake for the combustion air, makes for a much higher efficiency rating.

*edit* Because of the air ducting system on the top, you couldn't cook on mine but you can get this model without that ducting.  Also, this is a steel plate stove.  With all the fire brick and because it is so large, it weighs close to 500 pounds.

[beenthere]

The Defiant has the catalytic converter, that is optional when burning, using a bypass damper.

Has a cooktop griddle, and will load from the top or the front doors. Ash pan too.

About $1500 in 2001. Cost more for the chimney than it did for the woodstove. 

VC has smaller units as well.

[cheyenne]

I have a Dutch West airtight made by Vermont Castings. IMHO their the best woodstove going. I heat 2,500 sq ft with it & at 20 below I have the doors & windows open.....Cheyenne

[SwampDonkey]

These type of questions are all over the map as far as brand goes. Everyone likes their own. :D But here in New Brunswick the cook kitchen stoves were usually Enterprise. The firebox is cast and the top is plate steel for cooking. You can heat a hot water tank on them and you can also get them with a warming closet over head and a hot water tank on the far end. My uncle still uses grandmother's stove she got back in the 50's. It has an oven to. He no longer uses it to heat a water tank and it didn't have a warming closet. He heats the house until it gets into December's bitter cold, then it's wood furnace. Oil backup. The Enterprise Monarch was the top stove in that brand with all the options. It was a lot more fantsied up. You can still buy those old stoves. I think the Monarch is $3500, but it's a nice stove. Grandfather's brother bought one for his house and that is still used when my cousins come home in winter or fall. It's probably from the 40's, not sure, but it's a lot older than me and still looks good.

[beenthere]

I have a Dutch West airtight made by Vermont Castings. IMHO their the best woodstove going. I heat 2,500 sq ft with it & at 20 below I have the doors & windows open.....Cheyenne

Why : : : ??? ??? ???

[DonT]

I have a Pacific Energy super 27.It is about 7yrs old and i have been very happy with it,good burn times,efficient,and lots of heat are characteristics that have appealed to me.   DonT

[Warbird]

I have a Dutch West airtight made by Vermont Castings. IMHO their the best woodstove going. I heat 2,500 sq ft with it & at 20 below I have the doors & windows open.....Cheyenne

Why : : : ??? ??? ???

Call Al Gore!  We found the cause of global warming! 

[Michigan Mike]

We have one of the Dutch west stoves from Vermont Castings. We have been using it for about six give or take years now. I like the stove it is the only source of heat other than solar gain from south facing windows. This stove has the catalytic and I belive it makes a big difference in the amount of wood we use. Can we cook on it? depends what you mean. It does a great job on slow cook stuff like chili soup or stew. It doesn't fry stuff worth a darn. The catalyst makes a big difference on creosote but I have heard they have become real expensive to replace. On the previous stove also a Dutch West the cat repacment started at fifty bucks by the time we replaced it with the newer model the cost had climbed to about seventy. I hear they are even more expensive now. If I was buying now I would be seriously looking at other clean burn tecnologys.

[Dan_Shade]

I have a zero clearance fireplace that has a secondary burn by air injection tubes, it works great, puts out a lot of heat, and doesn't burn too much wood.  and no catalytic convertor.

after seeing how efficient my fireplace is, I wouldn't want an old style one, too wasteful for me.

[cheyenne]

The Catalytic converter & gasket are now $200 bucks.....Cheyenne

[tcsmpsi]

I've had a little more time to look.  Mostly what I've learned, the woodburning stove business has expanded and become a nother technological briar patch.

I have seen a couple of the soapstones, that if I had 5 grand to spend, I sure wouldn't mind having.

There are certainly plenty different species.

[Ron Wenrich]

They are still selling my style of stove.  Price is less than half that.  Its still pricey, but the stove lasts forever.  I think when I bought mine, it was only about $600-700, maybe less.

[sharp edge]

I used a zero clearance fireplace for all the heat for the last 30 years. Use any wood except hard maple and white pine, keep those trees busy making seeds. The rest get a "free ride up the chimney" 8)   A little trick for putting wood in fireplace---use welding gloves, got 3 pair at H/F for $9.99 use them in kitchen too.

SE

[Warbird]

Yup.  I use welding gloves, too.  Got tired of my hands getting so dried out from the heat that they would crack and bleed.

[SwampDonkey]

I don't wear gloves to load the furnace, but they would be handy to avoid the rare time I knock some bark off my hand. :D  My hands are only as far as the door mouth and wouldn't really need anything more than regular leather gloves. I have them when I clean the ashes though, that pale of ashes mixed with some orange embers gets hot. Actually, I try to work around those and just shake them off my ash shovel as best I can. ;) 

[Dan_Shade]

gloves are very nice if you have a smaller firebox.  I use a pair depending on how hot it is in there.

[Larry]

I to have a Vermont Castings Defiant Encore way older than beentheres.  Managed to destroy a couple of catalytic converter years ago and running without one.  I think I may need to replace the lid gasket on top next season.

Suppose the reason I posted is this model is a top or front loader with an ash pan.  After running this one I would never ever have a stove unless it was top loader with some sort of ash pan.  Were living in my future shop now and heating with this stove...as soon as I get the house built it goes there and the shop gets something smaller, and cheaper...but its gonna be a top loader with an ash pan.  No gloves required to load, ever...gloves really are needed to carry out the ash pan if it has hot ashes and to scrap ashes into the pan.

[tcsmpsi]

Which one do you have, Ron?  About the least expensive I saw was about $2,100.  I was looking at some of 'all soapstone' ones that they advertised for $4,995 for either one. 

Both are currently out of my price range, unless something major happens. 

I am looking to probably get something at the end of this season, hoping I might get about as good a deal as I'm apt to for the forseeable future.

I'm just not sure about all that 'self contained' structure.  I'm used to having several manual options of airflow and know how to make that work. 

[Ironwood]

We too have a Vermont Castings, Defiant (Encore, I think, it's catalytic), and while I was intially worried about replacing the catalytic, it has never been an issue. We heated our home with it for many years until we finished the radiant floors and ran 1000' of gas line, and installed a boiler. We now use it infrequently as our children are around it alot. It is a great backup for emergency heat (power outages, blah, blah). I don't know how many cords we have ran thru it, but the catalytic is nice, and once you get the hang of it, a non-issue.  We bought ours 14 or so years ago, it was afloor demo model and they cut us a little break but it was still $1700 or so. Not cheap, but it is the first thing you see coming in the front door, so it is nice to have an attractive stove there.

             Ironwood

[Ron Wenrich]

I'm using the Woodstock classic soapstone stove.  Mine was built pre-catalytic.  That is a pretty high price for a stove, and you have to add freight onto it.  But, at least you'll save on sales tax.  Its only a few hundred more than the Defiant model.

I can heat my house with it if I'm around to tend to the fire.  It will hold a fire all night, and I'm only using about 3-4 sticks at a time.  It only has a draft control on the door.  I use a stack thermometer and keep it within the good burning limits and never have any problems.

[tyb525]

Welding gloves here also, I'm scared to load it without them.

[sawmilllawyer]

tcsmpsi, just got the northern toolhttps://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=position"> Note:Please read the Forestry Forum's postion on this company master catalog there is a V pot belly stove in there for under $400.00. Supposed to be 200,000 btu but don,t know about that. Also, lots of other wood and pellet stoves for decent prices. Might want to check them out. Can't help you out on the efficiency of any of those units. I restored an Earthstove fireplace insert, the company is no longer in business, am now and have been very happy with it. Like you the SS liner costs as much or more than the stove but there thought of having a safe, controled fire is important. It is 26 F outside and the ice storm of the year is on the way, and it is about  80 degrees F in here, all by wood heat. Hope this helps.

[Warbird]

I have a hard time believing 200,000 btu...

Have heard good things about those Earthstoves.

[sawmilllawyer]

Warbird, so do I.

[logwalker]

I badly warped an Earthstove in a couple weeks by trying to heat an old mountain house. The dealer didn't like to see it come back but I had told him what we were up against and he recommended it. Went to a big Avalon and used it hard for years and didn't have problems. Joe

[zopi]

I have a Napoleon insert...

Here's a plug..

I HATE that piece of (insert euphemism of choice here) and will not be buying another..Weak fan, poor workmanship, and crappy refractory (fortunately I had access to a boiler shop..fixed that problem.)

I'd rather have the two iron flatop from harbor freight..

I'll be in the market for restorable older inserts soon....gonna need at least three anyway.

[Dan_Shade]

which napolean do you have, Zopi?

and what do you mean by "weak refractory"?

[WDH]

Have heard good things about those Earthstoves.

My earthstove is great.  Been going strong for 27 years.





If you could find a used one, that would be capital.

[tcsmpsi]

sawmillawyer,
I have run a potbelly for several years in my old shop.  It is the most overall efficient burning I have come across.  It is, however limited on size and amount of wood.  Every now and then, I like to sleep a little.  Every now and then.   ;D  I don't have a btu measurer, so don't know who many they put out.   I have never run coal in one, but they seem like they might be more tuned to coal use.  I've looked at Northern's offerings.  One drawback with them, is their shipping is 'priceless'. 

Danny, you sure than stove has had a fire in it?   ;)  That is one I have not seen before. 

Larry, after running a front/side/top loader for a long time yrs or so, don't knowthat I would like to do without a top loader either.  Have you noticed any appreciable difference running without the catalytic?  One thing I am not looking for, is high maintenance in woodburner. 

The Woodstock seem to be the most 'reasonable' priced of the soapstones. 

Ultimately, other than shipping (depending on just how much it is), I will likely try to find something within 100 miles and go pick it up.  Or maybe further if it is a good enough deal. 

I bricked the bottom of the parlor stove long ago, as the grates just kept burning through.   Yes, we are 'hooked' on seeing the fire (even though it isn't much with the parlor, and the mica hasdeveloped 4 small holes in it over time) and would ultimately, in an upgrade, like to have more of that than with the parlor stove. 

I am getting some very helpful information, that sends me off doing more and more searching. 

[thecfarm]

Beware of cheap,meaning price,pellet stoves. My penny pinching FIL has been taught another lesson,not that it will matter next time.Bought a pellet stove from a big box store,because it was $4-500 less.Nothing but trouble with it.Yes,the company sent him a new augur,motor and helped him troubleshoot it for no cost and he had to do all the work himself.Needed to be cleaned every 2 days,left a lot of ash too.Finally he got sick of it,returned to the big box store,which he was lucky and bought one that cost $4-500 more and had no problems at all.Only needs to be cleaned once every 2 weeks and could go longer he thinks and burning the pellets much better.The ash is a lot finer.You get what you pay for sometimes.And if he does have problems the dealer will come fix it too.

[Raider Bill]

In my opinion stay away from Englander stoves. Thatt's what I bought for the Tenn house and am not impressed with it or customer service.

[tcsmpsi]

Which Englander did you have, and what were the problems you experienced, Bill?

[tcsmpsi]

Anyone here using or have used one of the Drolet woodburners?

At the moment (of course, I have more yet to go through), I am looking at the Myriad, which has a large capacity, and though it is not top loading, the door/opening and capacity appears than loading larger wood should not be a problem.

[Larry]

Have you noticed any appreciable difference running without the catalytic?  One thing I am not looking for, is high maintenance in woodburner. 

I can't tell a bit of difference.  When the last one went out I called Vermont Castings and got hold of an engineer.  He said the only one that would see a difference is the EPA.

My stove is about 20 years old so to be fair the catalytic converters may have improved a lot since I bought my stove.

[SwampDonkey]

You guys make me chuckle. It's a lot easier to heat a house with those little iron boxes when it's 25 F, then it is -25 F. :D :D

[Raider Bill]

Which Englander did you have, and what were the problems you experienced, Bill?

It's one of the bigger ones. this years model I can't remember just off my brain right now but is rated to do 2000 sqft.

Very poor draft. It has a so called window cleaner draft which does keep the window clean but all the draft comes in from the top and right out the top so not much gets to the bottom to fuel the fire.

If I crack the door a bit or pull the ash plug out of the bottom a tad it drafts good but that really negates the airtightness.

They have a 3/8 " whole that is supposed to supply the fire box with air but even putting a compressor hose into the inlet it does not pull air.

Repeated Calls to customer service were not returned. I even sent in email and US mail a letter with pix to document the issue but never got a return call.

HAd a smaller Buck I borrowed from a friend  2 weeks before and it worked great. Wish I had went another way.

[Warbird]

Have you noticed any appreciable difference running without the catalytic?  One thing I am not looking for, is high maintenance in woodburner. 

I can't tell a bit of difference.  When the last one went out I called Vermont Castings and got hold of an engineer.  He said the only one that would see a difference is the EPA.

My stove is about 20 years old so to be fair the catalytic converters may have improved a lot since I bought my stove.

Hmmm.  With the Blaze King and similar type stoves, you should notice a large difference in heat output if the combustor (catalytic converter) goes out.  When active, the combustor runs about 1800 F.  It sits under the top plate of my stove, further heating the entire hunk of metal.  The fan kit I have blows air from the back of the stove, directly over the top plate, moving heated air out into the house.  It works very well.

I've actually been concerned about what happens if our combustor were to go out.  There are cleaning procedures that can lengthen the lifespan on them.  We have the slightly older style, which are said to last 2 - 7 years.  We are in our 3rd year with it and it is still going strong.  I plan to do the cleaning procedure this summer when we aren't using the stove.

Just called our local dealer and inquired about this (wanted to check stock and prices, too).  they indicated the difference is very noticeable when the combustor has quit.  They also warned me to make sure and get the new style of combustor, which is made out of stainless steel and lasts longer.  A new combustor for our stove currently runs $275.

Hope this info helps out.

*edit*  This is our stove dealer's website.  We aren't affiliated with them.  At the bottom of this page is a link to a PDF on "combustor care".  It has some good, basic info on catalysts.  http://home.gci.net/~thewoodway/featured_stoves.html

[cheyenne]

If you have the ceramic type be super careful they crumble just looking at them. I blow mine out with an air hose, very low pressure or use a 5/32 round file in the holes. you'll probley need to replace the gasket or you can use the black gasket material in the tube...Good luck....Cheyenne

[tcsmpsi]

You guys make me chuckle. It's a lot easier to heat a house with those little iron boxes when it's 25 F, then it is -25 F. :D :D

If it were -25 F, I wouldn't be concerned with warming the house.  Mostly just my buttocks!   :D

[Raphael]

  I've got a small wood/coal Petit Godin cylinder (7"dia. 12"deep) running as temporary heat.
It held up quite well against -11 F burning hardwood (the second floor gets really hot on the nights when the temperature is in double digits).  One drawback is I haven't bothered installing a damper, fine for anthracite (it needs that extra airflow) but wood is gone in ~4hrs.
  My experience with wood stoves has been the older the better, but I haven't used any of the recent high efficiency models.

[MrMoo]

I have a Defiant Encore that is in its 12th season. We have been happy with it up until now. A part broke on it and when I went to get a new oneI was told the $27 part is now only supplied as an assembly which will be $265!
I am not sure how many know but Vermont Castings declared bankruptcy last year. The new company that owns them is cutting back on parts. The stove shop I deal with said they are having difficulty getting any kind of parts.
I am kind of annoyed about this because one of the reasons we went with VC is that they are an American company and we thought they would be there.
Right now we are thinking of moving the Defiant to the new workshop and buying a Woodstock as they are made here in NH.

[Handy Andy]

  Oh No, after all the shopping I did for stoves, nobody told me Vermont Castings had taken out bankruptcy. Got a new defiant, non catalytic just this winter.  Tried to buy it unpainted, but couldn't get one, so bought the brown one.  Think it was like 2843 incl tax. The paint was about 300.  Had a terrible time just getting one bought.  The dealer had flood water get in his place, all his paperwork was messed up, didn't seem like he hardly wanted to even bother to sell me a stove, but the shopping I did, stoves were like gold plated this year. And he gave me the best price.  Jim

[tcsmpsi]

Well, I have exhausted myself, searching, reading, sifting, reconoitering, counting my pennies, dimes and nickels, and considering when I might ought to could have been sleeping.

Studying of companies, prices, types, building techniques, personal needs etc., etc., I had it pretty well boiled down betweend an Osburn and a Drolet.  I was about to check on Marcel to translate, but I found english versions.   :D

Seems one of the reasons both came to fit what I was looking for, is that both are made by SBI in Quebec, even though they do have distinct differences.

From what I gathered here, and other places, stainless steel baffles are preferred, and I like the feature of damper bypass, more especially once I learned a bit about these newer, airtight, EPA burning systems.

Haven't been able to quite understand if a smaller or larger firebox is more tuned to effective burn (supposing much of that would depend on size of wood/fire).  So, deciding larger or smaller has been of a concern.  Effectively, I have about 1200 sq ft of house to heat.

Anyhow, I opted for the Drolet Myriad.  It is bigger, (firebox is 20.25"X18.25"X13.5") which will allow burning the bigger wood, and it has the damper bypass.   And, I was able to find a place from which I can get it (with much searching), with shipping, for just less than $1000, which is in my reasonable 'budget'.  It also comes with a blower.

[SwampDonkey]

Here's the Monarch, I know a little too classy and pricy.

http://www.enterprise-fawcett.com/monarch.php

Enterprise Fawcett  dealers.

B&H Furniture Systems, Inc.

Double Oak, Texas
220 Cross Timbers Drive
817-430-8345


Congo Fireplace & Patio

Benton, Arkansas
1-501-316-4328
1-800-421-4447

[Raider Bill]

Swamp Donkey,
That's a fancy wood stove!

TCSMPS,
What is a damper bypass and it's reason?

[tcsmpsi]

Actually, I believe it is a bypass damper.  From what I can tell, it creates a more direct opening to the flue in a 'reburn' system primarily for starting a fire and replenishing wood into the firebox.  I can see where it would be benificial to 'kickstart' a perhaps sluggish fire.

[beenthere]

I suspect when opening the stove to load, that you would open the damper so the smoke wouldn't curl out the open door.

[tyb525]

We always have our bypass damper closed, haven't seen a difference in opening it.

[Warbird]

Opening the bypass when stoking the fire protects the catalyst.  When you put new firewood in, the gases it first generates are much colder than what was going through the catalyst.  The huge temperature differential can damage a catalyst.  this is why they recommend you open the bypass when stoking and leave it opened for a few, until the fresh fuel is burning well.

[tcsmpsi]

Hmmm...hadn't thought of that, warbird.

I sure I hope I can use the newfangled thing without breaking it.   ;D 

[WDH]

Hmmm...hadn't thought of that, warbird.

I sure I hope I can use the newfangled thing without breaking it.   ;D 

Hmmmm, what is it they say about teaching a new dog old tricks ?

[zopi]

which napolean do you have, Zopi?

and what do you mean by "weak refractory"?

I forget the model, but it is a 2000-2200 sq ft insert...it works alright, but the quality of construction sucks.

Weak refractory...they used Kaowool board in the top of the stove where the exhaust gasses recirculate to heat the top of the stove...they are not strong enough to stand up to shoving logs in there...mine lasted a couple weeks from new and collapsed on my wife one morning while I was at work...she was a little freaked out about it and I was a littl..alot steamed...could have burned her badly and cost me my home...I went by the boiler shop at work and picked up a few hard liner blocks
and cut them to fit the stove. (Ironically, hard firebrick would have fit in the same place as the Kaowool boards with out cutting the brick...it looks like they designed the stove to accept good quality materials and skimped on the production.) I will not buy from them again, nor will I ever accept delivery of a stove with a weak roof like that.

I will find older inserts in good shape, and/or repairable...there are several on craigslist every week...failing that I will build my own ceramic heaters with the help (ok..he'll do it, I'll hump brick.) of a friend of mine who is a master mason.

[Banjo picker]

I posted a while back on my Kodiak insert.  If I were looking for an older stove I believe I would go with it again.  It extends about a foot out from the face of the brick and does a pretty good job. 

Logwalker gave me some ideas about putting a secondary burner in.  It already had a shelf up top so when it cooled down the other day I just layed some firebrick on top of that.  When I shut it down in the spring I will try and get the boys to install a pipe for some air to help with a secondary burn.   Tim

[Warbird]

Hmmm...hadn't thought of that, warbird.

I sure I hope I can use the newfangled thing without breaking it.   ;D 

You'll be fine.  Just read the owner's manual and follow the instructions.  It ain't difficult, at all.   

[Trax]

What ever you do stay away from the Vogelzang there chineese junk.

[tcsmpsi]

Wish you hadn't mentioned that.  I don't quite care for most the Vogelzang line of woodburners and shied away from them. 

However, being an ancient, discriminate collecter of the finest of chinese junk, I will now have to reconsider.

[eamassey]

Wood Stoves?  I use "Ashley" brand stoves.  I have three of them.  One in the main part of the house, one in the basement, and one in my shop.  The primary heater has been in use every winter for 29 years, with no service or parts replaced.  I have spent most of my 62 winters with wood heat.  Why would I possibly want a catalytic unit? 

Also, I always burn green wood, can't think of any reason why I would want dry wood.  (I do keep some fine-split dry wood for fire starting, left over from the previous year--- but in cold weather, there is no fire starting, just continuous fire.) I check the flue about twice per heating season.  The only action I ever take is to clean the (uninsulated) flue cap.  My wood mix is about 70% red oak, 20% white oak, and 10% hikory.  Much of my wood is from blow down trees.  My favorite wood is red oak rounds (not split) that will just barely go in the stove door.  Also, I can't see much reason for a powered wood splitter-- I still use the same "Sotz Monster Maul" that I have had for 30 years.

Wood heat seems simple, easy, and ultra-low cost to me.

[Dan_Shade]

the newer "secondary" air, or "catalytic" stoves are so much more efficient than the old stoves.

I look at the old style stoves as plain wasteful when I can compare to how well the new stoves suck the heat out of wood.  if it's above 20F outside, I can heat my 1800sf house for 24 hours with a few armfuls of dry firewood.  The green stuff doesn't do too well in the newer stoves, though. 

[Warbird]

Have you ever tried heating with only dry wood?  Green wood burns longer because the moisture inside has to boil out.  The energy consumed boiling out the moisture so the wood will burn is energy that could have been used to heat your home better.

[Raphael]

In theory I use dry to get the iron and fire brick up to temperature and then run greener wood on warmer days and overnight (so it'll hold heat as long as possible).  Once the floor is in and we've got our big stove running I suspect I'll have to reevaluate my position on that.

[Dan_Shade]

I keep a lot of kindling around, mainly cutoffs from the woodshop, and more so, strips left over from edgeing on the mill.  I cut them to length, and that will get a fire ripping fast and turns to coals quickly, then you can toss in dried split stuff.

I like it when my chimney is only putting out a vapor.

[SwampDonkey]

With the temperatures in the 20's a couple 8" rounds of nice dry maple/beech/Y birch lasts for over 8 hours. No the furnace fan isn't on all the time either. I could if I wanted to turn on manual fan, but that's just wasting juice. With this mild weather (versus -25) it's real easy on the wood pile.  Every time I go down to the basement I have a nice bed of coals and could probably wait another 2 hours before reloading. 8) Hmm my 7.5 cords of dry versus the neighbors 30 cord of green. Seems like a big difference to me. :D

[cheyenne]

Burning green & wet wood is just making more work for yourself & dosn't produce near the heat dry wood does. I've been guilty of both, but only when It's been forced upon me..... smiley_chop....Cheyenne