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Another build thread... JoshNZ

Started by JoshNZ, August 04, 2019, 08:52:44 PM

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Vautour

@charles mann... Is your trip to Canada work related??.. i live on the east coast and got 5" of snow a week ago and know the rest of Canada has had quite a bite of snow so far.. hope you brought you snow gear!!.. :D 
the Gospel is WANTED by the people in 52 Countries but made illegal by their Government

charles mann

Quote from: Vautour on January 04, 2020, 03:18:20 PM
@charles mann... Is your trip to Canada work related??.. i live on the east coast and got 5" of snow a week ago and know the rest of Canada has had quite a bite of snow so far.. hope you brought you snow gear!!.. :D
Yes sir, im 5 days into my first wk of a 3 wk schedule. Im on the east coast in port alberni. Im doing the same work iv been doing for the past 16 yrs, working on tandem rotor egg beaters. 
Temple, Tx
Fire Fighting and Heavy Lift Helicopter Mech
Helicopter and Fixed Wing Pilot

RAYAR

Quote from: charles mann on January 04, 2020, 03:32:57 PMeast coast in port alberni


still the west coast to us eastern Canadians ;) (east coast off the west coast)
mobile manual mill (custom build) (mods & additions on-going)
Custom built auto band sharpener (currently under mods)
Husqvarna 50, 61, 254XP (and others)
96 Polaris Sportsman 500
2006 Ranger 4X2 w/cap, manual trans (430,000 Km)

charles mann

Quote from: RAYAR on January 04, 2020, 11:43:11 PM
Quote from: charles mann on January 04, 2020, 03:32:57 PMeast coast in port alberni


still the west coast to us eastern Canadians ;) (east coast off the west coast)
You are correct sir. I typed what i was reading on his post. I meant west coast, but yes, eastern portion of the west cost. 
Temple, Tx
Fire Fighting and Heavy Lift Helicopter Mech
Helicopter and Fixed Wing Pilot

JoshNZ

Quote from: Greg9504 on January 03, 2020, 09:56:01 AM
Nice build.  One observation/question.  You are using a steel nut with your acme threaded rod for your raise/lower mechanism.  Are you not worried about galling between the nut and threaded rod?  Be a shame to ruin the rods after all that machining work.

...

To JoshNZ - maybe I missed it, but would like to see a video of the saw cutting! Looks awesome.
To answer both...

YouTube

I haven't filmed a lot of my work yet and most of it has been bits and pieces anyway but here's some scraps.
I haven't seen it galling or binding or anything yet. It isn't exactly a precision fit, and I keep it greased. I could turn some brass or plastic nuts for it, I'll see how it goes. I have got a few HDPE blanks there, I hadn't considered it to be viable? I may completely redo the lead screws yet, they aren't quite dead straight or perfect. Certainly functional but not perfect.

Crusarius

MIne used to spray sawdust like that. I decided to put a heavy flap of rubber on it to direct it down. At first I liked the spray pattern but when I thought about what might go flying I decided it was better to direct it down.

JoshNZ

Yeah you have mentioned that before. Not quite gotten round to it yet haha. Hasn't bothered me yet anyway I've got bigger problems to solve first!

This is sort of what I'm going for with my extension. Will give me a total cut of 4.8m or nearly 16ft, which I'm happy enough with.

I knew it was gonna be a pain using RHS the same size as the frame, I've got one side sticking up ~2mm for whatever reason it is. I wonder if I should cut it all apart and weld the side rails onto the cross members about 5mm lower, which will allow for some kind of shimming adjustment on the drawbar. Now that I'm sticking up proud there's not much I can do other than start whacking stuff.



 

 

I got some trunnions and sleeves made so it should be smooth sailing once I get it levelled and aligned

charles mann

Josh, 
Is the metal of different height, even though its suppose to be the same dimension? If not, what bout bolting a 1/2" (12mm) tab on the bottom of the primary bed, which will prevent that side from coming up no further than the tab? You could even shim under the tab and the extension to bring that side down further if need be. I was wondering if i would run into the same issue once i ned to build extensions. Ill probably put some type of tabs inside my tube to bolt things to and still be able to shim if need be. 
Temple, Tx
Fire Fighting and Heavy Lift Helicopter Mech
Helicopter and Fixed Wing Pilot

Crusarius

My plan for extensions was just hinged flip out pieces. Have them hinged on the end of the tube / bed and rotate in and out. They only need to be strong enough to support the sawhead. At least in my case

JoshNZ

The tube is the same dimension yes so any twist or bow or whatever in either, will show itself as sitting proud of the end of the bed.

I thought about swinging out rails but you'd still need to get them level with the bed and support them, the carriage must be 200kg I guess you wouldn't hang 100 on each hinge alone.

I think I'll just cut the tube rails and drop them down slightly on the cross members, then pad up to level with weld beads.

Crusarius

Why wouldn't you? What size are your main rails? I will work on a quick design to show what I was planning on mine.

Crusarius

ok, here is a quick dirty sketch of what I had in mind. Keep in mind that my bed is already 24' long. With the way I built my carriage it leaves me a max cut length of 20'-4.5". I need to be able to cut 23' for my shop project. So all I need to do is get the carriage off of the bed so I have that extra 4' I can cut.

Ignore the scale on the hinge. I oopsed when I drew it and the bed is not a direct copy of what I have.



 

The top picture shows the extension in the full open position. I did not show any way of holding it open but you can get the idea.

The second picture shows it half closed position. Simple pin barrel hinge. More than strong enough to support the head.

The third image shows it in the full closed / stowed position.

Depending on the length of them they could just fold tip to tip on the ends of the trailer or overlap if you need that much more.

These extension arms are only intended to support the head. Not the log. They can be placed at both ends of the bed. If I were to do that I could gain 6-8' of bed length. And best thing would be fully stowable for towing down the road and no heavy frames to figure out how to move, setup and level.

Old Greenhorn

Quote from: Crusarius on January 10, 2020, 03:42:38 PMSo all I need to do is get the carriage off of the bed so I have that extra 4' I can cut.
@crusarius I am sure you've thought of this, but for others who read this (because it's a neat idea) I just wanted to mention that the extension needs to be pretty true to the bed because the beginning of the cut will see the head on the extension when the blade enters the cut the back of the head will still be on the extension, even a little, but this will influence the cut somewhat. This could generate a small giddy-up in the cut. I have been designing a similar gizmo in my head but for a 12' extension. Mine is ground mounted. now it is morphing into a dedicated edger track that will really hold the boards square. Anyway, thought I would mention it.
Tom Lindtveit, Woodsman Forest Products
Oscar 328 Band Mill, Husky 350, 450, 562, & 372 (Clone), Mule 3010, and too many hand tools. :) Retired and trying to make a living to stay that way. NYLT Certified.
OK, maybe I'm the woodcutter now.
I work with wood, There is a rumor I might be a woodworker.

Crusarius

Good call old greenhorn. You are correct. Good news is you really only need to make sure it is true in 1 axis instead of 3.

The good news is if there is a tiny step at the rail joint, you will never see that in your cut.

step = not different height but two pieces coming together with a small radius on them.

JoshNZ

Well the extension all came together pretty good. I've only been doing a bit here and there, been fishing 4 days this week so it is tough this time of year =[]!

Simple but a bit time consuming, trunnions welded in the frame, sleeves welded in arms which are sandwiched flat bar, and they have slots cut in them to allow for adjustment. The arms slide over a greased plate/packer with a tapered top so the extension centers every time. With the engine off i can hear a faint click as it crosses the joint, with the engine running and my eyes closed I couldn't tell you when it crossed, by feel or sound, so I'm pretty happy with it. I ended up clamping the cross beams to the drawbar and then running a string line along the bed rails, and extending that line out and welding the extension rail in place.





 

 

  

 

 

Im yet to add an arm to secure it folded up like that, and I can now cut and mount bunks to the last two cross members.

I think a jockey wheel is probably sensible now as well with that extra weight extending over the drawbar.

Next job though will be fitting this! Ive had a gutsful of the leaky floor jack so I splashed and bought this 10T ram, and porta pump. Brutey overkill but I figure running it at lower pressure should be better on everything. Will be a shame to cut a brand new ram up but I have to shorten it before it goes in. Not sure whether I will part the base off the reweld it, or part the top off and rethread it. Anyone have any experience modifying cylinders?



 

Crusarius

That looks great. I never though of doing the hinge like that. Great idea. 

do you really have to modify the cylinder? Can you just offset it and make a leg for it to push like the low profile heavy lifting jacks?

Hoopty5.0

I really like that extension. Really creative!

JoshNZ

The only direction I could offset it would be down into the log throat. I could cut the foot off the saw beam and put it out further but once again this is encroaching on log capacity and I don't think it'd be that easy of a job either. Would have to remove the beam I'd say.

I don't think it's that big of a deal to reweld cylinder base anyway

Crusarius

no. just nice to not have to. make sure you keep the seal end cool.

Ljohnsaw

Quote from: JoshNZ on January 20, 2020, 01:53:15 PM
The only direction I could offset it would be down into the log throat. I could cut the foot off the saw beam and put it out further but once again this is encroaching on log capacity and I don't think it'd be that easy of a job either. Would have to remove the beam I'd say.

I don't think it's that big of a deal to reweld cylinder base anyway
What is this cylinder for/going to do?  Can you clamp it in place and post a picture of what you are thinking?  Maybe the collective brain-trust here can come up with a different solution to reworking the cylinder.
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

JoshNZ

I'm swapping it out for the orange jack in this picture. Tensions the blade by pushing the sleeve off the end of the beam.



 

This is the constraint for the cylinder length. I do think reworking the cylinder will be easier than reworking the footing on the beam.



 

Crusarius

you have more than enough space on top of the beam. Why not just put it up there. Looks to me like you have 1 bracket to cut off and move then make a new one for the other side. Give you more space underneath to.

charles mann

I agree with crusarius, on top, or at the back. I havent gotten that far and still havent ruled out using threaded rod instead of a porta power and ram. But on top would be the next best choice to keep out of the way of cut throat
Temple, Tx
Fire Fighting and Heavy Lift Helicopter Mech
Helicopter and Fixed Wing Pilot

JoshNZ

With the force from the band tension already torquing the sleeve clockwise off of the end of the beam (as you look at it in that photo) I worry adding more force to this torque coupling will cause major binding issues. I figured the best place to put the tensioning force was as close to the opposing force as possible hence why it went underneath, directly in line with the wheel axle.

This cylinder is going to be a piece of cake to rework, I'll just cut the top of the cylinder off and rethread the internal section,

 

The only problem being the spring return... Are these put in place before the cylinder is welded closed or is there a way to disconnect them for resealing? Surely...

JoshNZ

Nevermind, should have twisted it a few more times before giving up its just a threaded rod.

I don't see a big problem here, that top threaded plug isn't even a seal, just a loose fit collar.

So if I part off enough cylinder then rethread for that collar, then lop off the excess rod I should be good to go



 

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