'86 Ford F250 4x4 front brake lines and ball joints

[OneWithWood]

OK.  I did not want to have to do this job just before vacation and piggy roast time but the fates had other plans.  I need to replace the front brake lines and the ball joints on the old beater woods truck.  Everything is corroded badly as this truck appears to have been a hurrican casualty from NC.  I have the wheels off and all joints (brake line connections, big castle nuts and idler arm castle nuts) have been soaked with rust reaper.  I need the info that is not in the Clymers Manual.  You know, the stuff that actually works and makes a difficult job easier.
I am all ears  smiley_bigears

[Furby]

Mapp gas!

[beenthere]

Eggimann's   
Burlkraft's shop men.

[Tony_T]

Torches to heat/losen rusted parts.  Flare tool to fix brake lines (hope you don't work all the way back to the master cyl.....).  Ball joint separator, BFH. Might need a special tool to get things off the spindle?

I'd repack wheel bearings and replace brake pads while I've got things apart, maybe replace calipers too.

Front end alignment when finished.

Check out your tie rod ends and idler/pitman arms too , no sense in alignment if other parts are worn.

Good luck.

P.S. cold beer for when you take a breather

[ScottAR]

As I remember, that one has press in ball joints (I could be wrong as it's
been a long day)   
Ball joint press could be in order.  Should be able to
"loan" one from the parts house.  Looks like a big daddy C clamp with some
adapters for different sizes.  Big breaker bar will be needed.  Try to use it with the knuckle still on the truck unless you have a vise as keeping it all moving/stationary is
difficult.   The bottom one will go real hard, the upper not as bad.

[moosehunter]

What Tony and Scott said plus an electric or air operated impact wrench, capable of 400 ft lbs or more. The c-clamp ball joint press is a great tool unless you have to turn it by hand!

Send me a pm if you need specific technical info.
I have replace hundreds of those ball joints.

mh

[Stump Jumper]

old woods truck dont need front breaks  : and the ball joints are good to go until they come apart  eh ;D

[flip]

If I understand correctly rotors are off and the knuckle is all that's left on right?  You'll need to get the adjuster cam that the top ball joint stud passes through.  Soak with penetrating oil of your choice liberally.  You can use a hammer to loosen the cam by smacking the knuckle around the cam.  I'm not real sure but the cam should have some flat spots you can get a big adjustabe wrench on to start working it back and forth.  If you smack around on it enough the knuckle should be loose enough to take off.  Take the snap rings (if equipped) off the balls and beat them out carefully or better press them out.  Bottom one has the snap ring, don't loose it.

I ran back and talked to one of my front end guys, here is a pic of the press clamp we use, it is about twice as old as me.  They use cups on either side and the shoulder of the BJ to press em in.

[OneWithWood]

Looked a bit closer at the assembly.  Remember this is a 4x4.  It looks like I will need to pull a bunch of stuff off and then pull the drive axles. Does this sound right?  For now I have only removed the tires.  I did get the old corroded brake line removed.  Tomorrow I will get a replacement, install it and bleed the brakes.
It might be just an old woods truck but I need to drive it to get gas so I need brakes.
I need to get my 350 on the lift and change fuel filters before we head out for the piggy shindig.  Being as this is the last weekend available I think the ball joints will have to wait until I return.  Moosehunter you will be hearing from me.

[flip]

Lock outs come off, there should be a clip on axle (half moon) and a couple washers with splines on them that fit on the axle, make sure you keep them in order.  There will be a big nut depending on which axle that will be tight.  Remove outer nut, remove washer and remove inner nut, don't break off alignment pin on inner nut.  At this point hub/rotor should just about fall off.  Take the 5 nuts off and pull the stub off.  You will have to soak with penetrating oiland use a rubber mallet to "persuade" it off.  At this point axle will come out if you want to pull it.  I would replace the axle joints (U-joints) if you have them down this far.  Procede to the instructions above.  If you need any help shoot me a message, be more than happy to assist. :P