iDRY Vacuum Kilns

Sponsors:

blade guide rollers

Started by customsawyer, October 15, 2004, 06:59:46 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

customsawyer

I have a WM LT40SH that keeps breaking the bolts on the inside blade guide roller that adjust it up and down have talked to WM and they sugested replacement of roller so I did but still having trouble would apreciate any help thanks JD
Two LT70s, Nyle L200 kiln, 4 head Pinheiro planer, 30" double surface Cantek planer, Lucas dedicated slabber, Slabmizer, and enough rolling stock and chainsaws to keep it all running.
www.thecustomsawyer.com

DanG

I can't help with your problem, since I'm a circle saw guy, but I do want to welcome you to the forum.  :)

Glad to see another guy from the "neighborhood" on here. Dublin ain't all that far from Moultrie, where a bunch of us will be meeting up next week. Maybe you could join us there?
"I don't feel like an old man.  I feel like a young man who has something wrong with him."  Dick Cavett
"Beat not thy sword into a plowshare, rather beat the sword of thine enemy into a plowshare."

Gilman

Custom,
You wouldn't happen to be crashing your guide into oversized logs would you?  I know that I never have ;D but assume some might have bumped them just a little.
WM LT70, WM 40 Super, WM  '89 40HD
Cat throwing champion 1996, 1997, 1999. (retired)

jgoodhart

I don't have WM, is there anything special about the bolt ? If it's just a plain bolt, go to a harder grade. If you draw a bolt up too tight it will break pretty easy. I would guess you are over torqueing the bolt causing it to snap.

MemphisLogger

Custom,

I just replaced one of my bolts last week--not cuz it was broke but cuz it disappeared  :o

I used a hard grade (black) bolt and the one thing I noticed is that the bolts didn't feel real firm until they met nicely in the middle. I suspect that if they didn't meet nicely--had sawdust or something nasty like that keepin them from meeting--they might wobble loose or possibly break.

Just thoughts  ;)  
Scott Banbury, Urban logger since 2002--Custom Woodworker since 1990. Running a Woodmizer LT-30, a flock of Huskies and a herd of Toy 4x4s Midtown Logging and Lumber Company at www.scottbanbury.com

Tom

It's a good idea to replace those bolts with Stainless bolts.  Hardwoods more than softwoods, but any woods, will corrode the plain metal and make them un-usable in short order. The guides live in a pretty corrosive spot.

customsawyer

thanks for the help folks but I am having trouble finding bolts that fit at all much less any that are stainless or grade eight thanks for the invite to moltrie DanG I have to be down there next week for some forestry work in that area would like to meet up with some other sawyers in the area and see if we can help each other out call me at (478)984-4676 thanks again to all
Two LT70s, Nyle L200 kiln, 4 head Pinheiro planer, 30" double surface Cantek planer, Lucas dedicated slabber, Slabmizer, and enough rolling stock and chainsaws to keep it all running.
www.thecustomsawyer.com

Tom

I'll bet "your friendly Ace Hardware man" can help you.  They usually have a generous assortment of American and Metric nuts, bolts and allen stuff.  I use hardware stores for more of my sawmill stuff than I use Automotive places :)

customsawyer

Thanks Tom
The bolts that I'm using came from Ace but they didn't have any stainless steel.  I thought it might be because I had the roller adjusted to low. I fell like it is pretty close to the same hight that it was at when I bought the mill but not sure
Two LT70s, Nyle L200 kiln, 4 head Pinheiro planer, 30" double surface Cantek planer, Lucas dedicated slabber, Slabmizer, and enough rolling stock and chainsaws to keep it all running.
www.thecustomsawyer.com

Tom

I don't think that roller adjustment would be enought to break those bolts.  They work a little different than the bolts on the back of the guide though.  The ones on the front, for up and down make their adjustment by usint the nut that is on the bolt.  The bolts are driven into their  holes until they meet in the center.  It pretty much makes a straight through rod or turns them into a lug.  Then you run the nuts on either side up and down to place the guide where you want it.  

The adjustments on the back, for leveling the guide wheel, work just the opposite.  The nuts there are lock nuts and the adjustment is made by the bolt pushing on the side of the blade guide rod.

Every time I would make an adjustment to my guides, I would have to stop and get the picture square in my mind as to what was doing the adjusting.

If the up/down bolts are firmly seated in the guide block and abutting each other, I don't see how adjustment preassures could be breaking them.   Perhaps over-torquing may be a problem.  If they aren't seated in the block good, I guess there may be a possibility that vibration could cause them damage.  Those guides are pretty tough and it takes a lot of  pressure to really hurt one.  It's amazing how something that tough, controls with such finesse'.

customsawyer

I know what you mean about the adjustment on the bolts I had a hard time figuring them out as well. I turned the bolts in till they met in the middle might be over tighten them will try that but I fell that they should last more than about 20 hours before they break. My problem started when I had one fall out like you said happened to you.
Two LT70s, Nyle L200 kiln, 4 head Pinheiro planer, 30" double surface Cantek planer, Lucas dedicated slabber, Slabmizer, and enough rolling stock and chainsaws to keep it all running.
www.thecustomsawyer.com

MemphisLogger

DanG Custom,

I hope mine don't start breaking now  :-/

I found my grade 8 bolts and stainless nuts at my local "olde timey" hardware store--y'know, the place with all the dusty bins and unidentifiable "neatos".

BTW, when I took my guides apart, I discovered that one of the greasable bearings in the one that shook loose it's adjustment bolt was seized.

I went to the bearing supply to get some more and all the had in that size were sealed bearings but they advised that the open faced ones I had probably were to begin with too. I got back to the shop and was all ready to pry one seal outta each bearing and cut grroves in the inner races to allow the grease to get in when I decided to go ahead and call Woodmizer to see if this was right.

I'm sure glad I called cuz John at Woodmizer informed me that there was really no need for the grease and I should just press the sealed bearings and get on with sawing.

I love Woodmizer--it seema everytime I call them they make the maintenance of my mill even easier  :)        
Scott Banbury, Urban logger since 2002--Custom Woodworker since 1990. Running a Woodmizer LT-30, a flock of Huskies and a herd of Toy 4x4s Midtown Logging and Lumber Company at www.scottbanbury.com

Furby

Does anyone have a cheap source for sealed bearings?
I thought someone posted a link sometime ago, just haven't found it.
They want about $10 a piece for my guide berings at the cheapest place I can find. I only need 6.  :-/

BBTom

The best place I have found for bearings is Bearing Distributors Inc. You can check for a branch near you at their web site http://www.bdi-usa.com.  I also get my B-57 belts from them.
2001 LT40HDD42RA with lubemizer, debarker, laser, accuset. Retired, but building a new shop and home in Missouri.

DextorDee

Ken
KI4BMW
North East Georgia

chevymetal

//www.cookssaw.com
Cheapest I have found for replacement bearings.
2003 Cook's Accu-trac AC-36
51hp Perkins Diesel
Cuttin' for a Livin'

customsawyer

Thanks for all the help out there folks. Think I might have found my trouble today. Was going through the mill doing regular oil change and grease everything type day and decided to change B-57 belts and found some sawdust built up under the belt, fell like this hammering type effect might have been adding to my problem. That should have been the first place I checked now that I think about it. Do you guys have a dunce award or anything like it that I can get, cause I sure have it coming. ::)
Two LT70s, Nyle L200 kiln, 4 head Pinheiro planer, 30" double surface Cantek planer, Lucas dedicated slabber, Slabmizer, and enough rolling stock and chainsaws to keep it all running.
www.thecustomsawyer.com

DanG

We have a dunce award, but there's a waiting list. ;D

Hope that was the problem. :)
"I don't feel like an old man.  I feel like a young man who has something wrong with him."  Dick Cavett
"Beat not thy sword into a plowshare, rather beat the sword of thine enemy into a plowshare."

Swede

There are bearings and bearings.
I pay ~$2 for bearings for less than 1000rpm. and ~$4,5 for a bearing the same size but for 16000 rpm. High speed bearings are marked  f. ex. TK, EC, C3, C5 etc.

Swede.
Had a mobile band sawmill, All hydraulics  for logs 30\"x19´, remote control. (sold it 2009-04-13)
Monkey Blades.Sold them too)
Jonsered 535/15\". Just cut firewood now.

Furby

Thanks Swede, that's a good point. I'll have to check mine as I haven't found the $$$ to replace them yet.

Thank You Sponsors!