Another build thread... JoshNZ

[JoshNZ]

Yeah I bet it's still in there too. I suppose an axe is the most sensible first port of call

[ManjiSann]

One of those new fangled easy open trees! Just pull the tab and the bark falls right off!

Brandon 

[JoshNZ]

I finally got it around to the garage to get its road warrant. Officially legal to tow it on the road now.



 

I ended up just tacking on some rounds to slot a dingy trailer board in as a temporary measure. Will install proper lights after painting. Also had to add side markers as the saw wheels were over width, they're just on plugs.



 

I also added some bracing, put the saw beam at max height and put 2 lengths in basically the only place they'd fit. It's actually added some complex geometry within it and looks quite cool I think. The carriage is solid as a rock now anyway no more flexing.



 

 

I put all the small scrappy bits of walnut on and got them out of the way. Jeez it's fun to use.

When does the urge to take a photo of every single board wear off haha...



 

 

[Ianab]

I finally got it around to the garage to get its road warrant. Officially legal to tow it on the road now.

Looking good. 

Here in NZ, if you are towing it, it needs to have a plate, and pass annual inspection as a "trailer".  That means working lights, and a basic check that it's not going to fall apart from rust or cracked welds. 

Good thing you didn't go any wider, or you would need a pilot vehicle and a permit. :-\

[Crusarius]

When does the urge to take a photo of every single board wear off haha...

When you realize you still need to sticker and stack everything at the end of the day

[ManjiSann]

The walnut is pretty! 

Nice build! Bet it feels good to get it all legal  8) 8) 8)

I'll let you know if/when the urge to take pics of every board wears off, so far it hasn't for me  :D :D It's so much fun you want to share it with everyone, at least I do  ;D ;D

Brandon 

[Old Greenhorn]

When does the urge to take a photo of every single board wear off haha...

When you realize you still need to sticker and stack everything at the end of the day

I'll second that. On days I am going hot and heavy to get things done, beat the weather, or the sunset, I take very few photos (and regret it later). As much as I take pictures to share here I mostly take them as a record or a reminder to look into something further or for a lookup reference when I get back to my desk. But some days there is just no time. ;D

[JoshNZ]

I haven't done any big days with a big stacking job at the end yet. Most is toying/tweaking and I don't end up with enough boards to bother strapping.

The straps on the last stack of slabs have gone completely slack. Wondering if the strappings even worth the time.

Hopefully this one doesn't get me in trouble haha here's the quick and dirty hook. The point actually took me two goes the geometry there is quite critical I found.


 

 

The toe is a shaft with two diameters turned, one fits the handle and is plug welded, the other is turned at 90 and welded. The hooks a hook =/ that I cut with an angle grinder haha  :'( hence the welded point, just made things a bit easier

[JoshNZ]

I pinned up a stainless ruler today, prob not ideal for what this is doing but it's better than nothing for now I'll come up with something else later after painting.



 

@charles mann you'd be a good person to ask, what's on the end of a prop tacho from a Cessna 206 haha. Sounds like I might have had one put aside for me at work. just the gauge. It prob wants a tachogen does it?

[Ljohnsaw]

I pinned up a stainless ruler today, prob not ideal for what this is doing but it's better than nothing for now I'll come up with something else later after painting.

That will work in the short term.  But what you need is a scale that is adjusted for the blade kerf.  Mine has 1/16" added for each mark on each scale.  This one is for 1, 2, 3, 4 and 6".  I put 4 quarter inch super magnets on each end but that wasn't enough to keep it from sliding around when pushing the head.





So I added a toggle clamp.  Works great.

This one is a little ugly but I use it the most as it has all the scales I need.  I also added a little mark half way between the normal marks.  That way I can center the pith on a "half mark" and then go up to get my target wood.


 

[JoshNZ]

Yeah I saw that in your thread. None of my sawing will be done to inches or this quarters business remember haha. I think for now adding the kerf to the target cut in my head will be fine.

[Crusarius]

Josh, I started with a tape measure and a magnet. now I have a really fancy scale I milled out of a piece of aluminum.

[charles mann]

@JoshNZ 
Never worked on stuck wings. But if i had to guess, it would be similar to a wheel or yoke speed sensor or maybe a mag pick up on a chainsaw. Iv never flown a 206, just 152 and 172 for the cessna brand. 

[Ljohnsaw]

Yeah I saw that in your thread. None of my sawing will be done to inches or this quarters business remember haha. I think for now adding the kerf to the target cut in my head will be fine.

Well, maybe.  Say you want to cut the equivalent of 2x4s (50.8x101.6mm?)  Your kerf is something like 3mm?  Maybe 4?  So your cuts would be at 53, 106, 159 etc.  So much easier to make a stick with 1, 2, 3, 4... that have all that math already done.  Even with a good stick, you'll make mistakes and screw up a cut or two. ;)  Especially at the end of the day!

[JoshNZ]

 

 

Well first job away for us yesterday. A good friend had a cherry tree take down on his back yard. All went good, nothing broken etc. Had the guys cutting boards on it too, easy enough to use for everyone. Actually the biggest ballsup was my own when I crashed the blade guide lower bolt into a log stop. Derailed the front wheels of the carriage. It makes me think maybe I should capture it somehow.



 

 

I do need some digger work done on my orchard so it might work out to be the most profitable job the mill ever does haha.

Stuffed if I know what to do for an extension. It does need it, either front or back. I want to get it painted it's stressful slinking around between rain showers (particularly in 4seasons1day NZ). But I think I have to add one to it one way or another

[charles mann]

Actually the biggest ballsup was my own when I crashed the blade guide lower bolt into a log stop.

exact reason i want to be on the same side as the stops, even if it that is the discharge side. plus with trees i wouldn't be able to see over, i wouldn't trust myself operating from the other side. 

[Crusarius]

Josh. all you need is some flip out extensions on each end of the trailer. They only need to be strong enough to support the head. That will give you a little extra length for very little work.

[JoshNZ]

What's the difference between hitting dogs and log stops though Charles ones out of sight either way. I feel like stops you can put measurement marks on so would be safer to leave unmonitored than dogs, particularly the style that swing up in an arc anyway.

Was just another teething moment. The blade was clear but the bolt hung below the guide. I've bought a pack of M10 grub screws, so everything will be flush I've just not got around to switching them out yet.

Im still not decided on the light weight head extension or a proper 2-3m log bed extension at the tail. Anything at the tail will have to be built properly as it'll have log on it.

This aircraft tacho is exactly what I need. Takes a spinning shaft into the back and has inbuilt fly weights that swing the needle, so I'll make something to attach that and that'll be my blade RPM tacho sorted.

[charles mann]

@JoshNZ 

True dat on the clamp, i hadnt put much thought in a clamp yet though. Heck, i dont even have stops built yet. 

Try a google search for the maint manuals and maybe the operator manual for the 206. The ops man will give you theory of ops and description and the maint will give you the break down of the tach system. 

Since iv never flown or even been in a stuck wing 206, i cant say on which tach you have. The only complex acft iv flown only had an eng tach, no prop and used manifold pressure to balance prop angle to eng rpm. Usually X psi for X eng rpm, ei: 2400 rpm = 24 psi on the manifold gage. All helicopters though have an eng and rotor tach, and most piston types run eng rpm off the mags and rotor off the xmsn, as where some turbines run eng off the n1 ( compressor side) and rotor from a tach gen on the xmsn. The heli i work on, eng is at the n1 and rotor is measured at the swashplate. 

[JoshNZ]

I can grab the input shaft at the back of the tacho and spin it with my fingers, which swings the needle up and then decays as it slows. So really all I need to do is get the idle shafts rpm into the back with a spinning cable or flex shaft I'd say. Depends where I mount it

[RAYAR]

It's nice when you can haul your mill to a site and set it up and mill some logs.

[charles mann]

What's the difference between hitting dogs and log stops though Charles ones out of sight either way. I feel like stops you can put measurement marks on so would be safer to leave unmonitored than dogs, particularly the style that swing up in an arc anyway.

Was just another teething moment. The blade was clear but the bolt hung below the guide. I've bought a pack of M10 grub screws, so everything will be flush I've just not got around to switching them out yet.

Im still not decided on the light weight head extension or a proper 2-3m log bed extension at the tail. Anything at the tail will have to be built properly as it'll have log on it.

This aircraft tacho is exactly what I need. Takes a spinning shaft into the back and has inbuilt fly weights that swing the needle, so I'll make something to attach that and that'll be my blade RPM tacho sorted.

Can you post a pic of the back of the tach? 

[JoshNZ]

 

 

 

The back just takes a threaded sheath with a square end spinning core by the looks. You think it might not be 1:1 ratio? Suppose it would be a lot to ask of a core in a flexible sheath to spin at 3500rpm all day long =/

[charles mann]

if you can come across the same flex cable that is used on the acft, you might not have an issue with it running for hrs on end. how did you can across acquiring it? if you can, can you get the flex shaft from where you got the tach? if not, you might be able to search the acft sales sites and see if you can locate a used 1. 

tach cable
tach cable1

i even saw 1 on eBay for $60. 
from looking at the 1 on eBay, it looks to be like the same shaft that would go in a angle neck weed eater. even my stihl straight neck kombi weed eater has a similar flex shaft. 

[JoshNZ]

I was thinking of using one of those Dremel tool flex shaft extensions. Cheap as chips and they go up to 30,000RPM =/.. I could machine an adapter and mount it to the end or from a brief look at a picture of a core replacement for that kit, it has the same square end it may even plug straight in. There will be no torque on it, the input shaft is light and silky.

So this is what I got with a drill and tach (upside-down in image) on the back of it. It is 2:1. Which actually, is perfect. I'll pluck the cover off the bezel and paint over the numbers at half their value (or maybe print a stencil and spray it...). That will put the entire band RPM range on the whole scale of the gauge, with best possible resolution. And, it only works in one direction... Which happens to be the correct one haha. Got really lucky with this!



 



 

How's that for a bit of multi tasking  ;D.

I don't know the details but it was pulled up in an inspection and had to come out. I think I'd mentioned it in passing to the boss or one of the pilots and it made its way onto a shelf aside for me. Pretty darn lucky! Hate to think what they'd cost new, being aircraft parts.