Whatcha Sawin' 2021 ??

[Ianab]

Would take 15 mins to set up Swing blade mill around where the log was sitting.  ;)


Good job on getting it sawed, but as logs get bigger you want a different plan.  ;D

[Southside]

I see a lot of beautiful vertical grain flooring in that log. What is the plan for it?

As far as the breaker goes, it's doing it's job. Aside from not using or taking off the debarker to gain just a smidge there isn't much you can do. 

[Magicman]

Welcome to my world Brandi, and you are now my Hero.  I 'love to hate' those bigguns.  (Or is it 'hate to love'?)  Yes, you can spend a couple of hours+ but the satisfaction of getting-r-done is huge. 

[WV Sawmiller]

Brandi,

   Congrats on slaying the monster. I had to use my Magic hook yesterday but on much smaller logs than that. I had to move a couple in each direction. My customers are always duly impressed when they see that.

    Another tip you may try on those real hard to turn logs is also using a short board between the loading arms and the cant. Sometimes you just need them to hold the cant in place while you reposition the clamp for a better bite. Keep that option in your tool kit if needed. Good luck on getting that telehander back up and running right. I hope its nothing serious or expensive.

[Andries]

Great post Brandi.
Those big logs take time and they will test you. 
The magic hook can also be used for turning a log by setting the hook near the top of the log and passing the chain underneath it. Lift the chain end with the grapple and you can roll it as slow or fast as you like. 
Magic.
It'll be good to see how that log finishes up today. 👍

[Magicman]

The magic hook can also be used for turning a log by setting the hook near the top of the log and passing the chain underneath it.

At that point you can attach it to the log clamp and use it to turn the log. 

Usually using the claw and clamp together is all that you need to do.  Lift with the clamp and then let the log's weight against the claw do the turning. 

You may also need to use the clamp to raise the log a bit to help the toe board for that first inch.

[WV Sawmiller]

   You can also use the toeboard to help turn the log. Raising the toeboard allows you to position the clamp under the log better especially if there is a knot or protrusion stopping you from getting the clamp under it where you need it. Raising the log with the toeboard then putting the clamp under it and lowering the log on the clamp when it is slightly off center can help slowly turn the log by turning it in small stages.

[TimW]

Would take 15 mins to set up Swing blade mill around where the log was sitting.  ;)


Good job on getting it sawed, but as logs get bigger you want a different plan.  ;D

That is the biggest the mill will take.  The different plan is getting the Lull repaired.  

 The truck is on it's way to take it to the repair shop.

I was gonna buy a swing mill.  But at the time, Paterson or Peterson was being reorganized and couldn't give me a delivery time.
hugs,  Brandi

[TimW]

I see a lot of beautiful vertical grain flooring in that log. What is the plan for it?

As far as the breaker goes, it's doing it's job. Aside from not using or taking off the debarker to gain just a smidge there isn't much you can do.

1x12 B&B siding for a friend's storage building.  1x12 B&B siding for our chicken coup, and the cant will be turned into 4x6s for a repeat customer.

After resetting the breaker a few times, I shut down and got out the water hose  to wash the deep dirt out of the gullies and hollers of that thick bark.

hugs,  Brandi

[Magicman]

After a breaker pops several times, it gradually looses it's 'whatever' and may need replacing.  I had to replace mine because it was popping too easily.  OK now.

[TimW]

Welcome to my world Brandi, and you are now my Hero.  I 'love to hate' those bigguns.  (Or is it 'hate to love'?)  Yes, you can spend a couple of hours+ but the satisfaction of getting-r-done is huge.

Lynn,
    Thank you.  It is the second time I used the Magic Hook.  Thanks for posting about it.
I really like a challenge, but not all the time.  I really like logs the clamp and log turner will work correctly.  I do like the big ones, but around 30 inch would do fine.  All day long.  For 20 footers, knock it down to 24 inch logs.  Just got to go slow with the big ones, but the yield is awesome!
hugs,  Brandi

[OlJarhead]

I put a monster 16 foot log on the mill today. It took an hour to move it and load it.  The telehandler is down and going to the repair shop tomorrow.  Hyd. issues with the auto tilt and left right tilt.

So I had to drag this 5000 pound plus log with the tractor.  The big end was 33x36 inches.

 
hugs,  Brandi

Wow!  That beats my LogZilla!  Awesome work!

[Southside]

Well one day someone will "reclaim" that B+B and turn it into high dollar flooring!!   ;D

[hilltopper46]

I'm still learning, so was interested to see how the saw would cut this cherry stump when mounted in a different grain orientation. A family friend brought it by to cut some slabs to make floating shelves from. I won't vouch for the integrity of the slabs, but they cut very well with no diving, etc. He was amazed at how many slabs he got from the wood.

We cut the other half of the stump as well, which did not have the large chainsaw mistake cut into it like this one does, although the slabs were not as long as he may have wanted them to be.
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[TimW]

Brandi,

  Congrats on slaying the monster. I had to use my Magic hook yesterday but on much smaller logs than that. I had to move a couple in each direction. My customers are always duly impressed when they see that.

   Another tip you may try on those real hard to turn logs is also using a short board between the loading arms and the cant. Sometimes you just need them to hold the cant in place while you reposition the clamp for a better bite. Keep that option in your tool kit if needed. Good luck on getting that telehander back up and running right. I hope its nothing serious or expensive.

Howard,
      Thanks.  I will keep the board bracing off of the loading arms idea in my tool box.
The telehandler is having some issues with the aux. hyd. valves.  Something is leaking a little at the wrong time and place.  When I lower the boom, hyd. pressure moves the left/right tilt to the right.  Since that pressure is not being relieved in the return line, things are messing up.
I already R&R the cylinder hoses because they had bad crimps and the unwanted pressure "bleed out" there.  Then the wore out (not repaired right) cylinder blew apart.  I was told the aux. joystick valve needed rebuilt.  I told them remove it and rebuild it.
The mechanic told me I needed to schedule that with the owner, but could use the telehandler, but not the tilt.  I moved the above photoed log with it. After parking and lowering the boom, pressure blew out the hose to the left right tilt.
This hose goes inside the boom about 36 feet and was replaced at their shop last spring.  With multiple issues and each trip out here and back to the repair shop costing around $330 dollars in mileage and labor ($98 an hour), I decided to bite the bullet and pay $820 to transport it there and back.  I figure it would take at least 3 trips out for the mechanic to get everything fixed right, if the machine stayed here.   Also, to R&R all needed, another "assistant" mechanic may be needed at $49 an hour.
Hopefully, they will R&R the hose for free.  Hyd. valve rebuilds usually are not expensive, it's the labor.  I looked up under the machine to see if it was easy for me to remove the valve, but it is buried up beside the seat and looks like no access with the seat out.  I can't see the valve from underneath, so a spider nest of hoses and electric sensor connections need to come out.  Like I said it is the labor at $98 an hour. 
When it rains, it pours.  While under the machine, I noticed some of the 3 way steering valving has a wet sheen of hyd. fluid also.
When the Lull gets back home, I will have to rebuild the Mahindra's loader arm cylinders.  The grapple's cylinders are leaking also, but those can wait. 
hugs,  Brandi

[TimW]

Great post Brandi.
Those big logs take time and they will test you.
The magic hook can also be used for turning a log by setting the hook near the top of the log and passing the chain underneath it. Lift the chain end with the grapple and you can roll it as slow or fast as you like.
Magic.
It'll be good to see how that log finishes up today. 👍

Thanks Andies!  Right now, the hook is hooked on the log to turn it.  But when you use a chain and the hook, once past the center of gravity, it's a free fall to the bunks.  That size cant will shake the machine when it hits flat.
I am gonna try to see if the grapple can roll the cant 90 degrees first. I will raise the rollers and put the tines (forks) under it and lift.  If the tractor can lift it, I can back up, lower it to the ground onto 4x6s and turn it, then place it back on the mill.  I noticed the other day one of my stainless bunk covers have a little crack in the end.  

On second thought, I guess I could turn it with the hook just enough, then place the clamp under it.  Then lift the log with the chain and hook until it rests on the clamp and slack in the chain.  Then remove the hook and lower the clamp.
hugs,  Brandi

[TimW]

  You can also use the toeboard to help turn the log. Raising the toeboard allows you to position the clamp under the log better especially if there is a knot or protrusion stopping you from getting the clamp under it where you need it. Raising the log with the toeboard then putting the clamp under it and lowering the log on the clamp when it is slightly off center can help slowly turn the log by turning it in small stages.

I was using the toeboards, but have been calling them "rollers".  Which work too good rolling the log or cant at the wrong times.   I tried that, but couldn't get it past the backstops.  I have two rollers on the backstops.  I need to buy two more backstop rollers.
hugs,  Brandi

[TimW]

After a breaker pops several times, it gradually looses it's 'whatever' and may need replacing.  I had to replace mine because it was popping too easily.  OK now.

Yes, now that I think about it........circuit breakers wear out and can pop for no good reason.
hugs, Brandi

[TimW]

I put a monster 16 foot log on the mill today. It took an hour to move it and load it.  The telehandler is down and going to the repair shop tomorrow.  Hyd. issues with the auto tilt and left right tilt.

So I had to drag this 5000 pound plus log with the tractor.  The big end was 33x36 inches.

 
hugs,  Brandi

Wow!  That beats my LogZilla!  Awesome work!

Thanks OLJarhead!  It is an honor to hear "Awesome work" from you!!!
hugs,  Brandi

[TimW]

Well one day someone will "reclaim" that B+B and turn it into high dollar flooring!!   ;D

Then it will be high dollar weathered "barn siding"!  It's kinda thin.  I am sawing it to 7/8th inch.
hugs,  Brandi

[TimW]

I'm still learning, so was interested to see how the saw would cut this cherry stump when mounted in a different grain orientation. A family friend brought it by to cut some slabs to make floating shelves from. I won't vouch for the integrity of the slabs, but they cut very well with no diving, etc. He was amazed at how many slabs he got from the wood.

We cut the other half of the stump as well, which did not have the large chainsaw mistake cut into it like this one does, although the slabs were not as long as he may have wanted them to be.
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Hilltopper46,
        That there looks like some pretty wood.
              hugs,  Brandi

[WV Sawmiller]

Brandi,

   I have thought about buying two more rollers also to use on my two center side supports (backstops as you call them) but haven't done it yet. I figured they'd be more useful on the small stuff than the big ones. Let us know how they work out for you. 

   I assume you are using the 4X6 in much the way I was thinking of using the combination toeboards (Rollers) and clamp. I'm guess you raise the log with the toeboards and clamp then put the 4X6 under one side and lower the cant on to it to shift the center of balance and help roll it over. I may have to give that a try some time. I can see where that would help you turn the cant in stages. 

[TimW]

Brandi,

  I have thought about buying two more rollers also to use on my two center side supports (backstops as you call them) but haven't done it yet. I figured they'd be more useful on the small stuff than the big ones. Let us know how they work out for you.

  I assume you are using the 4X6 in much the way I was thinking of using the combination toeboards (Rollers) and clamp. I'm guess you raise the log with the toeboards and clamp then put the 4X6 under one side and lower the cant on to it to shift the center of balance and help roll it over. I may have to give that a try some time. I can see where that would help you turn the cant in stages.

No, I used the 4x6 as a chock when I moved the clamp to get a new bite to rotate the log.  The claw was of no use, as it tries to come up right under the monster and couldn't be used to hold position when moving the clamp.
hugs,  Brandi

[Magicman]

I was using the toeboards, but have been calling them "rollers".

So while you are renaming the components correctly, they ain't 'back stops'.  Wood-Mizer labels them as 'side supports'.  The back of the sawmill is where the taillights are.  Those supports are on the side.   ;D

Back stop is probably a circle sawmill term.

[TimW]

I was using the toeboards, but have been calling them "rollers".

So while you are renaming the components correctly, they ain't 'back stops'.  Wood-Mizer labels them as 'side supports'.  The back of the sawmill is where the taillights are.  Those supports are on the side.   ;D

Back stop is probably a circle sawmill term.

Correct, side stops........................or side supports.
Back stops are in baseball.
        hugs,  Brandi