Drum Chipper Question

Southside · May 24, 2021, 11:25:47 PM

Acquired a Whisper Chipper - drum style - absolutely a Chuck-N-Duck - for some work I did. Have had the thing for a couple of years and never got it into service. Over the past week or so we played around with it, fabbed up an exhaust for the 4 cyl ford power plant, addressed a couple little things, and she seems to be a decent little unit.

The blades need attention, broke the cap screws loose with my impact, but they won't budge. I am presuming that is just a gib that the cap screws go through to hold them in place? Nothing special to remove them? Just break the rust bond?

Also, what would be the proper gap to set the shear block on the bottom to? Have not removed it yet but I am sure it needs to be dressed up.

It's not fast or pretty, but it was cheap enough and should gobble up some junk around the farm. Hoping to be able to use it as a slab wood digester off the mill too.

chet · May 24, 2021, 11:54:33 PM

The cutter bar you are referring to will have 4 sides that are usable. First thing to do is pull it out and see if it has any unused sides. Most times they have never been flipped. Once out you will see how they wear in the center. I used to use the cover from a safety matches book to set it. You should get a visible cut in the paper when you rotate the drum, but not lock the drum from rotating. Always do your settings on both outside edges of the bar, this is especially important if using a bar that does not have a fresh edge.

Southside · May 25, 2021, 07:03:07 AM

So the +/- 1/8" gap I can see at the moment is a bit much? ;D

mike_belben · May 25, 2021, 08:26:41 AM

I would expect an impact knife on a severe duty machine to be sitting on dowels or a key to absorb the shearing loads, while the bolts only clamp the knife to its mount. But ive never worked on a drum unit.. Could be anything. If just bolts, a few wacks and the knife should drop.

chet · May 25, 2021, 09:41:02 AM

Remove the long cap screws and single short cap screw from the wedge bar. Return a longer cap screw to the short threaded cap screw hole and use it to drive the wedge bar out.

mike_belben · May 25, 2021, 09:48:25 AM

Jack screws for the win.

Maine logger88 · May 25, 2021, 06:33:53 PM

Hacksaw blade width to the closest knife to the anvil is what I shoot for. Where I run Babbitted knives they sometimes vary slightly. Yours are most likely double sided ones so there probably more consistent

chet · May 26, 2021, 10:35:13 AM

Did ya git it apart, if so what did ya find?

Southside · May 27, 2021, 07:41:27 AM

Got it apart and all back together last evening. The cutter bar was actually in great shape, put it against a square and it was straight. Sharpened the knives, and adjusted the gap like you said.

Only had a couple pieces of dry, light, small, sawmill junk lying around to toss into it and try out. She did chip that, but didn't really "feed" it in.

Guessing maybe the material was just too small and light for the head to draw it through? Have piles and piles of branches from the ice storm back in February along field edges that need to get chipped up. Hope to drag her out there later this week or over the weekend and see how she does.

Thanks for the help.

mike_belben · May 27, 2021, 08:06:08 AM

Was it just bolts or was something else holding the knives in place?

Southside · May 27, 2021, 08:29:31 AM

The short jack screw swap was the ticket.

chet · May 27, 2021, 09:06:57 AM

By straight I assume you mean the edge was a sharp right angle not rounded over.
Dry wood is tough ta chip with a non self feeding chipper. The trick is to feed it together with some green stuff. Proper knife setting on these years ago was a long drawn out process, until the invention of the electric impact.
Before a day of chipping with your Chuck n Duck, it's a good idea ta feed her with one of your old gloves ta appease da chipper God. It may cut down on her apatite for gloves, watches, eyeglasses, and ear muffs. ;D

stanmillnc · May 27, 2021, 01:34:47 PM

I've been using my Woodchuck "Chuck and Duck" drum chipper for over 10 years now and have learned a few things:

1. It's a dangerous machine, especially with no safety brake to keep you from getting pulled into it. It's got one speed - fast. Cut your long trees / branches in manageable lengths. Bogging it out often causes excessive wear on expensive, tough to replace components. And stay well clear of the feed area so branches don't whack you on the way in.

2. These machines are limb eaters and made for brush up to 5" or so diameter. They don't handle sawmill slabs very well, particularly if they are wide and flat. The flat slabs push the blades into the drum with a lot of force and mess up your clearance pretty quick. I only run my smaller slab waste through my machine and no dry hardwoods.

3. Adjusting the blade clearance is not a quick, easy task. It will be required often if chipping up slab scrap from the sawmill. You'll know blade clearance needs adjustment when you start seeing longer stringy material discharge instead of chips.

4. The main drive belt is expensive. Keeping your tension / sheaves adjusted properly and gently engaging the drive at lower RPM will prolong the life of the belt.

Just my experiences. My ol 'Chuck and Duck' has been a workhorse for me.

Southside · May 27, 2021, 01:37:47 PM

Quote from: chet on May 27, 2021, 09:06:57 AMBy straight I assume you mean the edge was a sharp right angle not rounded over

Hummm... Well, I don't know. The good thing is my Milwaukee 18V impact and some slither made short work of getting it out and putting it back in. So I will grab the 1 1/8" and the 1 5/16" sockets and drop it down and have another look.