3pt skidding winch question

[TmbrWlkr]

I am currently pulling firewood and saw logs with a Kubota L3400 and a Uniforest 35M winch.  The winch is rated for 7700 lbs line pull ( I assume that is first wrap) and has +/- 225' of 3/8" cable.  The tractor I believe is rated a 29 pto HP.  This setup is generally well matched but on occasion the winch will hit is "limit" without stalling the tractor.  I cut my firewood logs 13' 6" in the woods as that equates to 8 20" firewood sticks + saw curf.  It struggles with larger hardwood logs (20" +) if I am pulling them uphill or they run into any obstacle.

Should I be looking at adjusting the clutch?  Does anyone have any experience with a PTO winch in this class?  Or am I just expecting to much from this setup?

[Maine logger88]

It sounds to me like your clutch needs adjustment my farmi which was like 6600 lb pull I used to pull whole 20 inch trees with

[B.C.C. Lapp]

I am currently pulling firewood and saw logs with a Kubota L3400 and a Uniforest 35M winch.  The winch is rated for 7700 lbs line pull ( I assume that is first wrap) and has +/- 225' of 3/8" cable.  The tractor I believe is rated a 29 pto HP.  This setup is generally well matched but on occasion the winch will hit is "limit" without stalling the tractor.  I cut my firewood logs 13' 6" in the woods as that equates to 8 20" firewood sticks + saw curf.  It struggles with larger hardwood logs (20" +) if I am pulling them uphill or they run into any obstacle.

Should I be looking at adjusting the clutch?  Does anyone have any experience with a PTO winch in this class?  Or am I just expecting to much from this setup?

I have the same winch and a kubota L2501.  I don't know if your winch needs an adjustment or not but I can tell you I experience the same thing. Sometimes the winch hits the wall but doesn't stall the tractor. Most of the time its stuck on something.  I have yet to find a log I cant get to the landing but having said that an obstacle, a root, rock, any sticking point can stop it cold.   Of course there is a big difference between skidding oak, hickory or beech and something light like yellow poplar, sass, or soft maple.   And for certain you really notice the the longer the log the more friction on the pull.   I have pulled 30 inch logs up a grade but they were all logs cut at 10' 4".
I dislike skidding quaking aspen poles for the scrag mill because they want them at least 17' and the longer stuff is the stuff I struggle with.    I'd rather skid grade logs or blocking cut in 12's 10's and 8's all day.    
Keep a cant hook handy to roll logs off sticking points or change your angle of pull.  
For the really large logs you need an arch.   Makes a HUGE difference.   I had a Log Rite ATV arch and it was a good tool and worked well with my tractor but not large enough. So  I ordered a T36 arch, biggest one they make, customized to work off the uniforest winch and after a long long wait it is shipping Monday.      .  
   One thing I have found with these three point winches is if you try to pull with a sideways angle at all and the logs hangs up you will easily bend you three point lift arms.   I've broken mine twice and wielded  them up and back at it.   But its a weak point to be sure.

I edited to add keep your drive chain adjusted tight.   When the winch is new your chain will stretch quite a bit and needs adjusted.   after that first adjustment it doesn't change much.  I just check mine when i lube.  

[mike_belben]

Its hard to know how line pull ratings are derived.  My 8K electric winch surely will not pull 20" whole tree that youre lesser rated units do.  


Anyways just some food for thought here.  The clutch on your winches slipping is viewed as a detriment only until it fails to slip and shears a crank or transmission shaft, or breaks a cable and kills someone.  


Adjust/replace parts to whatever spec the manufacturer suggests for normal operation.  Beyond that, Live with the slip and learn to love having a circuit breaker protecting your investment and your life.

[thecfarm]

  One thing I have found with these three point winches is if you try to pull with a sideways angle at all and the logs hangs up you will easily bend you three point lift arms.   I've broken mine twice and wielded  them up and back at it.   But its a weak point to be sure.
   

Weld a piece of flat stock 1X4 inches under the arms. They won't bend again.  ;) Have it welded the other way of the arms. When looking down at the arms you want it sticking out on both sides. I had to do that on my other tractor.
I wonder about mine winch at times. I have twitched in some big ones, no problem,. Than one half that side I have a hard time with. ???  I have seen it dig up the ground, tip rocks over, dig roots up and keep a coming!!!! Than sometimes it will just not move. 

[stavebuyer]

I have a Uniforest and find sometimes the rope doesn't fully allow it to engage unless you are 100% in line with the lever. Be sure that the little lever is actually bottoming out.

[TmbrWlkr]

  One thing I have found with these three point winches is if you try to pull with a sideways angle at all and the logs hangs up you will easily bend you three point lift arms.   I've broken mine twice and wielded  them up and back at it.   But its a weak point to be sure.
 

Weld a piece of flat stock 1X4 inches under the arms. They won't bend again.  ;) Have it welded the other way of the arms. When looking down at the arms you want it sticking out on both sides. I had to do that on my other tractor.
I wonder about mine winch at times. I have twitched in some big ones, no problem,. Than one half that side I have a hard time with. ???  I have seen it dig up the ground, tip rocks over, dig roots up and keep a coming!!!! Than sometimes it will just not move.

cfarm - I have experienced the same thing - drives me a little crazy sometimes - and I am part ways around the bend already.

[TmbrWlkr]

I have a Uniforest and find sometimes the rope doesn't fully allow it to engage unless you are 100% in line with the lever. Be sure that the little lever is actually bottoming out.

I haven't paid attention to that - but I will now - thanks

[Hans1]

I have a wallenstien so may not apply but I adjust the clutch until it just try's to winch in with out the rope being pulled. From this position I back it off slightly this seems to have the most power. Mine adjusts easy with a large Allen key.

[John Mc]

I've been having similar problems with my Uniforest 35E (predecessor to the 35M). Over the years, it seemed to me that it was not pulling as strongly as I remembered. I tried adjusting the clutch according to the directions in the manual (which reads like it was translated through 3 different languages, each time by someone with only a passing familiarity with either of the languages in question). It did not seem to make much difference. I convinced myself it was just my imagination - that I was just trying to do more than I had in the past. Then a friend I sometimes cut firewood with commented that it didn't seem to pull like it had in the past.

It's rated for 7700#, but I swear the 4000# hydraulic winch on my forwarding trailer will out pull it. I'm debating hauling it back to Hud-son in Barneveld, NY and asking them to give it the once over.

[TmbrWlkr]

I've been having similar problems with my Uniforest 35E (predecessor to the 35M). Over the years, it seemed to me that it was not pulling as strongly as I remembered. I tried adjusting the clutch according to the directions in the manual (which reads like it was translated through 3 different languages, each time by someone with only a passing familiarity with either of the languages in question). It did not seem to make much difference. I convinced myself it was just my imagination - that I was just trying to do more than I had in the past. Then a friend I sometimes cut firewood with commented that it didn't seem to pull like it had in the past.

It's rated for 7700#, but I swear the 4000# hydraulic winch on my forwarding trailer will out pull it. I'm debating hauling it back to Hud-son in Barneveld, NY and asking them to give it the once over.

I have "tinkered" with mine some.  I TOTALLY agree on the #$#&% manual.  Read, and reread it many times - still don't know if I understand it.  The chain drive did not seem like it needed adjusting, and the clutch seemed to be close to spec.
Let me know if you take yours back to Hud-son - I will be most interested in what they have to say, and the $$ they want.