Is there something called tension in a log?

[Glenn1]

Do homeowner sawmills such as the LT series offer three dogs to help keep the log still?

I do not see the need for more clamps.  Orient the log properly for the first face opening and watch the cant carefully as you open the other faces and remove boards.  I would rather see the tension released and saw accordingly.

Thanks Lynn

[losttheplot]

The quality of the logs you are providing the sawyer will have an influence on the quality of the boards he is able to cut for you.

Something about chickens and pies comes to mind  :D :D

[4x4American]

The quality of the logs you are providing the sawyer will have an influence on the quality of the boards he is able to cut for you.

Something about chickens and pies comes to mind  :D :D

Someone always has to bring up food  :D

[ladylake]

 I'm with Ron Wenrich, I'd give my right arm for a clamp or clamps that would hold a cant tight to the bunks, every board would be perfect when sawing the cant with no need to turn.. Also you will need to take a skim cut when you take off a couple of board and the log has stress IF you want the cant to be the same thickness from one end to the other , any other way your boards will not be the same thickness if you are relieving stress as you saw.   Steve

[POSTON WIDEHEAD]

...... Also you will need to take a skim cut ......

I use my blade for a planer a lot of times. 

[Nomad]

I'm with Ron Wenrich, I'd give my right arm for a clamp or clamps that would hold a cant tight to the bunks, every board would be perfect when sawing the cant with no need to turn.. Also you will need to take a skim cut when you take off a couple of board and the log has stress IF you want the cant to be the same thickness from one end to the other , any other way your boards will not be the same thickness if you are relieving stress as you saw.   Steve

     Yeah...  My clamp will hold the center of the cant down just fine.  But when the ends want to jump up half an inch i use bad words.  And then when you flip it you gotta pull the center back down!

[POSTON WIDEHEAD]

Are you guys supporting your cants on the VERY ends. If you don't stress or no stress, a bowtie will be sawed.
Thats what I experience. I always have support under the ends.

[4x4American]

I think it'd be neat if the the little stoppers they have there (what are they called? They stop the cant when the fence is down) were sharp spikes.

[Magicman]

You could do that, but you would have to pull the cant away from them before turning to prevent tear out.  Everything seems to somehow be a compromise.   :

[4x4American]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YlAdyqjNAVE


Fast forward to ~ 1:15seconds

[4x4American]

You could do that, but you would have to pull the cant away from them before turning to prevent tear out.  Everything seems to somehow be a compromise.   :

Yea true, they could always put a little hydraulic kicker on it  ;)

[xlogger]

I think the cook's mill has the spikes and bigger ones have two clamps. I have a friend that has one and he said he never had a problem with the small spike holes. I wish I had two clamps on my mill or 3 would be great. Like Steve said you would not have to turn the cant when sawing and make a waste cut. So if anyone is looking for a new mill you should look for two clamps if your money is right.

[4x4American]

I'm sure that if the spikes were shaped more like a top than a needle the cant would pop off on its own once the clamps release.  If they somehow incorperated a little kicker on the fence that goes up and down thatd work.  On our wm mills, if you've noticed, the fence comes out further than the stoppers, so, I'm willing to bet that if you cut off the stoppers and welded spikes in the same spot, just lifting the fence should kick the cant off.

[drobertson]

I have entertained the idea of something like small log tongs hooked to a boomer that is fastened below the bed frame, where when needed just swing them up and hook and boom down, but I have yet to employ it.  I have found what works, kinda at times if the cant is bowed and needs another pass, such as one or two more,  I lay the log with each end hitting the bed the center raised up, lightly clamp and slowly pull down the back stops and clamp, then pound it down like it were in a vise, it works at times pretty good.

[4x4American]

I do that too.  Often times I pound it down with a pv or cant hook whichever is more handier.  If it's really bad I'll break out the old splitting maul.  But generally I'm sawing EWP and for the most part it's pretty well behaved.

[Magicman]

This oversize C clamp is my solution for pulling a raised center back to the sawmill bed for clamping.


 
More often I have the helper stand on the cant.   ;D

[4x4American]

Where'd ya get that clamp Lynn?

[Magicman]

It is a Harbor Freight item.

[4x4American]

Is it made out of swiss cheese?  ;D

[Banjo picker]

Someone already said it,  look at a Cooks.  My ac 36 has the hold down spikes...no problem.  It also has 2 dogs .  Like has been said, position the log where the ends are suported an saw straight through if you desire.  Banjo

[Banjo picker]

Here is a picture.  It shows one of the dogs an one of the spicks.  There is a spike on each bunk. Banjo

  

 

[xlogger]

Cook's mill spikes like Banjo picker has would be great on my mill.  Don't know why some of the other major mill makers don't copy this idea. I'm sure they would add on a second clamp for extra money but on larger hyd mills it should be standard equipment.