iDRY Vacuum Kilns

Sponsors:

chainsaw sharpening equipment

Started by Ruffed Grouse, January 19, 2015, 12:07:54 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Ruffed Grouse

Hello All:  I'm new on the forum.  I'm considering purchasing a good quality motorized chain sharpener for my own use but for possibly hanging my shingle out as well.  There seems to be quite a number of units out there.  Does anyone have experience with using any of the current models out there and have opinions on models that are good stable designs.  Thank you.

cbla

I know a guy that has one from Granberg (not sure of the model) and he swears by it.

tractorhal

 Look for one that the grinding wheel reverses, electricly, so when you change the angle, for the other cutters it is grinding in the same way you would file. Most electric units, the grinding wheels turn in the same direction. The better one will also do the rakers, as they do a cutter.Try Baily's web site. I do not find their web site user friendly, may be just Google. Dinasaw, Bellsaw, or saw chain sharpeners.
They are not inexpensive. 

fishpharmer

Welcome to Forestry Forum!
No advice except to look at FF sponsor Comstock Logging Suppies, Inc. also...

http://www.shopcomstocklogging.com/Chain-Saw-Sharpening_c_16.html
Built my own band mill with the help of Forestry Forum. 
Lucas 618 with 50" slabber
WoodmizerLT-40 Super Hydraulic
Deere 5065E mfwd w/553 loader

The reason a lot of people do not recognize opportunity is because it usually goes around wearing overalls looking like hard work. --Tom A. Edison

luvmexfood

I will second Comstock. Just started purchasing from them and so far I like. Also have heard excellent things about CHAINSAWR. Just never ordered from him.

Course I don't purchase a lot but if you ever do order from either mention you saw them on the Forestry Forum. A lot of people on here have been thru the school of hard knocks and can give invaluable advice. Sometimes no one can tell you the easy/best way to fix something but they can sure tell you from experience what doesn't work.
Give me a new saw chain and I can find you a rock in a heartbeat.

sawguy21

A box of quality files is a lot cheaper and more effective in the right hands. Practice, practice, practice. If speed and production are issues Oregon makes the 510A a scaled down version of the tried and true 511AX. It still ain't cheap but is far better than the offshore junk from a supplier I won't mention.
As far as reversing, I don't like that feature from a safety standpoint. Grinding the right hand cutters puts the sparks and debris directly back at the operator. A touch with a file will remove any burrs.
old age and treachery will always overcome youth and enthusiasm

HiTech

I bought a brand new one about 18 years ago and it is still in the box. Never set it up. It is an Oregon and the last time I looked up the price it was well over $400. I even have the metal to build the stand to mount it to. Maybe one of these days I will give it a try. For now hand filing fills the bill.

ladylake

 I've been running a Oregon 511 for 40 years, works great and my chains cut.   Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

mad murdock

Oregon makes a good grinder, so does Logosol.  There is a company that has picked up where Silvey left off also.  Comstock is a good place to start.
Turbosawmill M6 (now M8) Warrior Ultra liteweight, Granberg Alaskan III, lots of saws-gas powered and human powered :D

sawdusty1

I get a much sharper chain by hand filing and it's faster too.  Learn when to throw your file away and replace it.
Woodmizer LT15
Husqvarna 550xp
Husqvarna 372xp
Husqvarna 350
Husqvarna 55 Rancher
Husqvarna 181se
Kubota L4701

tractorhal

check Madsen's Shop & Supply Inc., Simington sharpener.

WV Sawmiller

Ruff,

    I have not invested in one for the shop but an absolute must have IMO is the 12v electric with alligator clamps to attach to truck or 4 wheeler battery for sharpening in the field when you nick a rock or get dirty. I have had one made by Oregon and one by Sthil. The Oregon worked better for me because the switch is on the unit rather than the cord plus it uses anyone's stones. The Sthil has threaded stone shafts and you have to get them from the dealer. For the price of a couple of chains I extended the life tremendously on my chains and I just sharpen on the saw as needed. I figure if you have a chainsaw you need one of these handy sharpeners.
Howard Green
WM LT35HDG25(2015) , 2011 4WD F150 Ford Lariat PU, Kawasaki 650 ATV, Stihl 440 Chainsaw, homemade logging arch (w/custom built rear log dolly), JD 750 w/4' wide Bushhog brand FEL

Dad always said "You can shear a sheep a bunch of times but you can only skin him once

Corley5

  I've had good luck with my MAXX grinder.  The head tilts so you're always grinding into the chain like the old reversible Oregons.  They had to quit making those because of the shower of sparks the operator got.  I've also got a Tecomec with hydraulic clamping set up for 3/4" pitch chain.  It works good.  I've got CBN wheels on both of them.
Burnt Gunpowder is the Smell Of Freedom

6sunset6

How high off the floor do you mount your grinders?   I wear safety glasses and like to watch the wheel going in.   Means I am bent over .  Anybody else like to watch the process?

sawguy21

I like the chain about chin high when sitting, I am more comfortable and more accurate.
old age and treachery will always overcome youth and enthusiasm

Southside

My wife picked up a Timber Tuff from Tractor Supply for me 3 years ago. I sharpen 6 to 10 chains a week on it and even use it for my 3/4" processor chain. The only issue I had was last summer when the switch went out. Called the mfg in the midwest and had a switch a couple days later. They even tried to warranty it for me but in good faith it was well out of their written period and I use it a lot.
Franklin buncher and skidder
JD Processor
Woodmizer LT Super 70 and LT35 sawmill, KD250 kiln, BMS 250 sharpener and setter
Riehl Edger
Woodmaster 725 and 4000 planner and moulder
Enough cows to ensure there is no spare time.
White Oak Meadows

brettl

Lot of good advice and since you may hang out your shingle, it should pay for itself pretty fast. Don't go cheap, you get what you pay for in tools. I use hand files mostly. I may invest in a good sharpener down the road, but only if I plan to hang a shingle out. Cutting firewood, I just can't dull em fast enough to make an expensive sharpener cost efficient.

pine

Quote from: sawdusty1 on January 22, 2015, 10:51:59 PM
Learn when to throw your file away and replace it.

That is so true.  I am guilty of using a file a bit past its prime and should not.

mad murdock

Don't throw the old ones away. Save Edge can resharpen them too. Usually the resharpen cost is 1/2 or less the cost of a new one and they are as good as new.
Turbosawmill M6 (now M8) Warrior Ultra liteweight, Granberg Alaskan III, lots of saws-gas powered and human powered :D

fordf150

The idea of sending your files to Save Edge and having them resharpened is great but economically its not worth it. I think they charge $1.25 each to sharpen plus the cost of shipping and you can purchase new save edge files for $1.33 each.

mad murdock

I guess I was referring to files in general. A decent flat file is 4-6 bucks or more depending on size. Chainsaw files are relatively inexpensive, may not be worth the hassle.
Turbosawmill M6 (now M8) Warrior Ultra liteweight, Granberg Alaskan III, lots of saws-gas powered and human powered :D

fordf150

i know what you mean. And it is almost impossible to buy a quality file today. I have a stack of old Heller/Simonds files that I am saving up to send to save edge at some point. Some people hoard the weirdest things....my addiction is quality files, chisels, drill bits. Have boxes full of each yet every time i need one i end up running to the hardware store to buy new

bandmiller2

I use both, grinder and files. Many folks especially pilgrims never take the chain off the bar until its replaced that's wrong. Every couple of filings the bar should come off and everything cleaned and readjusted. After a few filings I grind the chain to even things and especially if something was hit.  If you have a hard time filing a ground chain you were too agresive grinding. Of course I'am just an old phart what do I know. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

terrifictimbersllc

Quote from: bandmiller2 on February 09, 2015, 07:49:36 AM
If you have a hard time filing a ground chain you were too agresive grinding.
Why is this?  Run into this once in a while & haven't figured it out.  huh-smiley
DJ Hoover, Terrific Timbers LLC,  Mystic CT Woodmizer Million Board Foot Club member. 2019 LT70 Super Wide 55 Yanmar,  LogRite fetching arch, WM BMS250 sharpener/BMT250 setter.  2001 F350 7.3L PSD 6 spd manual ZF 4x4 Crew Cab Long Bed

John Mc

Quote from: terrifictimbersllc on February 09, 2015, 12:02:46 PM
Quote from: bandmiller2 on February 09, 2015, 07:49:36 AM
If you have a hard time filing a ground chain you were too agresive grinding.
Why is this?  Run into this once in a while & haven't figured it out.  huh-smiley

Overheated during grinding, then "air quenches" to harden the tooth. Usually it's not the entire tooth that gets hardened, it's more of a skin hardening, but it can be a real pain trying to hand-file through that skin (and you can ruin a lot of files attempting it).

Not all steel alloys will air harden, some are more susceptible to it than others, and smaller pieces (or fine edges on a larger piece) are more likely than larger ones (it's easier to air harden the working edge if a chainsaw tooth than a railroad spike of the same alloy)
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

Thank You Sponsors!