Double Hard Turbo 7 verses Bi-Metal Turbo 7

[Beavertooth]

I may have a big job coming up sawing a lot of large pecan trees and just trying to get an idea if I would come out cheaper paying nearly twice as much far Bi-Metal verses Double hard. Has anyone had any experience comparing the two as far as how much more sawing you can get with the Bi-Metal between sharpening, particularly  on pecan trees. This would be sawing for probably 2 to 3 months so I would be buying a good many blades. All I have now is 4's,7's and 10's but would want to go with the turbo's for this. Thanks

[4x4American]

I bought a run of .042" bi-metal turbo 7's from SE Metals they were around $14 landed in a box of 30.  Now they are cheap, and they cut fine on my resaw, but so far I've went through maybe half the box and two of em have broke at the weld.  I have a mess of .055" WM 7/39 double hards and they have been coming in backwards (needed to be rolled) which is annoying esp when you wanna throw a blade on and go.  So far I found Cook's has been the only company to send out blades that have the blade body curvature going the correct way for roller guides, but I've only ever got maybe 50 or so blades from them ever so that could be a part of it...but every single one of them had the correct curvature.  So far as your sharpening, I have only ever got double hards when I buy blades from WM and I only ever get 2-3 sharpenings from them before they break.  Granted I'm not doing any rose smelling..  The bi-metals, I'm beating to death on the resaw, and I don't suspect they will last longer than 1 sharpening.   The way I see it, the big job you have might be a good place to test bi-metals vs double hards.  You'll be sawing enough to keep the info fresh in your head and you should be able to tell what is sawing better and all that.  Could just start with the cheaper ones til cash flow gets flowing and then get some more of the double hards for comparison.  There are other companies mimicking the deep gullet blades now I heard Simonds offers one now too and another company is still in the R&D process idk if I'm allowed to say what company that is...  I guess Cook's was the original one to come out with that profile from what I hear...now the others are perfecting it or trying too.  I don't find the turbos work very well in softwood, the 7/34's imo are much better for softwood but the 7/39's are the best for hardwoods from what I've found. and when a turbo blade won't cut it, a cooks 8 dtss will.

[scully]

I am a huge Bi-metal turbo 7 fan , I did 2300ft. of walnut with them and they were great . You can streach out the saw time on them some but I still try to use caution and not put to much spin time on them . As for the regular turbo 7 I use them for just about everything and love them too .

[4x4American]

I think I confused bimetal with silvertips...the ones se metals sells is a step down from double hards.  The bimetal is the carbide tipped ones right

[Beavertooth]

The Bi-Metal are not carbide tipped they are just made out of metal that is hard enough to cut other metal just like a Bi-metal jig saw blade. If you could slow your sawmill rpm's down slow enough you could actually cut metal with it but at the speed it goes that is not possible. I did saw with a turbo 7 double hard yesterday for the first time. I sawed 3168 bf of pine with that 1 blade. 2x4's 2x6's 2x8's 2x10's and 4 12" dia 8ft logs into stacking stripped. That blade just flat out smoked them logs.  8) 8) One reason you can cut more without changing blades is that you can go thru the log so much faster. I can say that from experience after yesterday. For me with the high horsepower on the LT70 I said the 7's made the 10 degree obsolete and if this turbo 7 performs on everything else like it did yesterday I would say it gonna make the 7 obsolete for me.  ;D

[Ohio_Bill]

I have sawed with .55 1 ½  7 deg  bimetal  .  .45 1 ¼  4 deg and turbo 7 double hard.    and  .55  1 ½  7 turbo double hard . I also use re sharp .  The  most cost efficient blade for me is the  1 ½  .55  7 turbo double hard with on average 1 sharpening .  Cutting low grade hardwood some of which is hickory .

[Beavertooth]

Thanks Bill

[petefrom bearswamp]

Slowly converting to all turbo 7s.
Resharp on all except a few old 10s I have which I sharpen at 7.
I have resharp replace any bad blades with turbos.