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Lucas Mill Questions

Started by sigidi, September 13, 2012, 03:43:06 AM

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sigidi

Yeah, its running at full speed, but Dad told me (its his table saw setup)it chews through stuff really quick, so I was being gentle with the bar on it and also feeding from the 'back' of the saw, so I wasn't in the firing line of any grindings, all the ground off metal was shooting down under the table of the saw.

On the face of the bar - where the chain sits and runs across, you get a wear pattern that leaves two thin 'spines' - lemme draw a pic...

Here it is, rudimental, but quick...



After an amount of use, the tie straps on the chain, wear the face of the bar, but leave the two thin spines, anything more than 1mm needs to be dressed back to a perpendicular face on your bar. if it isn't dressed back flat, the spines will excessively wear your tie straps and work through to the rivest on your chain and then she'll snap on you and no more cutting for a wee while  ;D

I've got a series of pics and explanation on how I lined the bar up with the carriage after dressing it back, but only got home in time to put my little girl to bed, still gotta get ready for tomorrows slabbing - nice little blue gum, pics soon night all
Always willing to help - Allan

JohnM

Quote from: sigidi on December 09, 2013, 05:50:07 AM
...but only got home in time to put my little girl to bed,
Make sure she always comes first before this silliness.  :)  Our little girl (14mos) rules the roost around here and even her older brothers know to drop everything to crater to her. :D  (Still not seeing them at the changing table though... ::) :-\)

Thanks, as always, for the info and diagram!
Lucas 830 w/ slabber; Kubota L3710; Wallenstein logging winch; Split-fire splitter; Stihl 036; Jonsered 2150

sigidi

Mine is a little older, 11 years now, but if I'm going to be home I like to be home before she goes to bed  :)

Back to business...

Aligning your slabbing bar after taking it off...

Once you have fitted your bar back into the carriage, lay a straight edge perpendicular to the bar and long enough so it reaches under each side of the carriage...



then measure to the underside of the carriage on the front and the back...

   

In this instance for me the difference was close to 4mm from front to back, if this is left as is the chain will be wanting to rise in the cut, potentially ruining a lot of nice slabs. So now the bar needs to be shimmed to bring it closer to level with the carriage, I use a soft drink can to make the shims...



Loosen off the bolt holding the bar into the frame, allowing space to slide the shim at the front between the bar and the flat washer...



Now tighten the bolt holding the bar into the frame and re-measure the distance to the carriage front and back...

   

Head over to the other end of your bar and set up the straight edge the same way...



measure front and back again...

   

again I use a soft drink can to shim between the bar and the frame to alter any difference, in this instance about 2mm, but this shim needs to be cut out to accomodate the 2 bolts holding the nose of the bar...

 

re-tighten the bolts and check the measurements...

   

slabbing bar is ligned up properly again

Always willing to help - Allan

Nomad

     Allan, you did a fine job of explaining that procedure.
Buying a hammer doesn't make you a carpenter
WoodMizer LT50HDD51-WR
Lucas DSM23-19

sigidi

Always willing to help - Allan

JohnM

Hey Sig, just to clarify, you're not using the level as a level, correct?  Just a straight-edge reference for your measurements.  I have no actually experience with this (yet ;D) just going on what I saw on the Lucas video. :-\
Lucas 830 w/ slabber; Kubota L3710; Wallenstein logging winch; Split-fire splitter; Stihl 036; Jonsered 2150

sigidi

Quote from: JohnM on December 11, 2013, 10:48:24 AM
Hey Sig, just to clarify, you're not using the level as a level, correct?  Just a straight-edge reference for your measurements.  I have no actually experience with this (yet ;D) just going on what I saw on the Lucas video. :-\

Yup, just a straight edge, not as a level. I figured some folkes may not have that cool dvd yet and I've had to do it a few times but never documented it - its really hard to explain to someone without any pictures :o  ;D and I was doing it over the weekend anyway, so figured I'd take some photo's, not the best as I was doin it all using my mobile phone, but folkes get the idea I reckon  ;)
Always willing to help - Allan

ohwc

Did not know if anyone has tried this with small logs around 4 to 5 ft. but thought I would share this trick. I did not take pics but will next time we do this. Chain at 5 and 60 degrees ripping. Load log into bunks perpendicular to the mill... had to nail 2x4's to the bunks and log to help with stability. It has a tendency to want to roll on the first couple passes so this is the reason for nailing it down was 36" in diameter. Then noodle through the log. The finish is pretty close to slabs coming off like they have went through a planer.

sigidi

Would be good to see some pics  ;)
Always willing to help - Allan

sigidi

Frank, this is a series of pics showing my slabber sprocket set up, as I mentioned over in that other thread (can't remember which one now  :o)

So this is what my sprocket looks like if it was all together on the saw...


 

Under the nut looks like this...


 

You can see the washers that sit under the nut - very large, with large hole too.

This is a pic of all the parts of slabber sprocket laid out in order from left to right...


 
With my old slabber I used to need 3 washers between backing plate and sprocket,then 1 washer between sprocket and nut. You can see with this slabber I need 2 washers between backing plate and sprocket and also 2 between sprocket and nut.

This shows how thin the washers are...


 

Hope it helps mate ;)
Always willing to help - Allan

Seaman

Thanks. I will look for the other washers, I do not have any above the sprocket right now. Have a little upward play.
Frank
Lucas dedicated slabber
Woodmizer LT40HD
John Deere 5310 W/ FEL
Semper Fi

sigidi

Quote from: Seaman on June 03, 2014, 06:04:29 AM
Thanks. I will look for the other washers, I do not have any above the sprocket right now. Have a little upward play.
Frank

They may help with keeping your sprocket longer. The key is to 'sight' your sprocket in line with your bar when you assemble it and use the washers to 'shim' it into place and that should take that bit of play out. I found them very hard to find when I lost a couple over the years and just get the straight from lucas if/when I need them now;)
Always willing to help - Allan

sigidi

Recent question from a member asking about making the winding of a Lucas a bit easier, this is what I'm doing at the moment...

http://youtu.be/tHR-eEq_MqY

You can do it with a good cordless drill, but because I have the access at the moment, I'm doing it with an electric drill. I was shown this by Ian from Lucas Mill HQ - Take the 13mm Nylock nut off the winder axle, add two 13mm nuts (you need the two nuts to stop it stripping the existing nut off the axle) and using a 16 point 13mm socket to wind the winders up. Just be careful to use an extension to make sure you don't smack your hand with the winder handle as it winds up.
Always willing to help - Allan

logboy

I trust Ian's judgement on things because I know hes spent far more time with a Lucas than I ever will. I just worry about putting a little impact driver on those handles and having it tear up the gear assembly on the inside over time. 
I like Lucas Mills and big wood.  www.logboy.com

sigidi

Yeah, I was concerned about it too, but when I thought about it, I use it to raise between logs, it still travels exactly the same amount  to do exactly the same thing as winding it by hand...so I figured it would be no different and between logs it sure makes things easier 14 logs a day 5 days a week, every week of the month and as I get the engine all the time my old shoulders are playing up
Always willing to help - Allan

logboy

I hear you. Its not the going down thats hard, its the going up. Werent they working on an electric setup for raising and lowering?
I like Lucas Mills and big wood.  www.logboy.com

Seaman

Lucas dedicated slabber
Woodmizer LT40HD
John Deere 5310 W/ FEL
Semper Fi

fishpharmer

Quote from: Seaman on February 18, 2015, 08:19:01 AM
Thanks Sidigi !

X2!  I sure appreciate you sharing that with us.
Built my own band mill with the help of Forestry Forum. 
Lucas 618 with 50" slabber
WoodmizerLT-40 Super Hydraulic
Deere 5065E mfwd w/553 loader

The reason a lot of people do not recognize opportunity is because it usually goes around wearing overalls looking like hard work. --Tom A. Edison

sigidi

No problem fellas, happy to help
Always willing to help - Allan

logboy

I'm going to try it, but a couple things worry me. If I use a cordless drill, its going to burn out the motor, clutch, or both. If I use a cordless impact, which is designed for high torque applications, then the constant impact action will eventually strip out the internal components on the cranks. I big, 1/2" electric drill would probably work, but thats only good if youre working next to an outlet. I would love a 12v setup that runs off a battery.
I like Lucas Mills and big wood.  www.logboy.com

Nomad

Quote from: logboy on February 18, 2015, 02:37:41 PM
I'm going to try it, but a couple things worry me. If I use a cordless drill, its going to burn out the motor, clutch, or both. If I use a cordless impact, which is designed for high torque applications, then the constant impact action will eventually strip out the internal components on the cranks. I big, 1/2" electric drill would probably work, but thats only good if youre working next to an outlet. I would love a 12v setup that runs off a battery.
I'm going to try it too, but I agree with you about the cordless impact.  I think the hammering action would be a bad idea.  It would also be extremely fast!  I bet the cordless drill on low speed will work just fine though.
Buying a hammer doesn't make you a carpenter
WoodMizer LT50HDD51-WR
Lucas DSM23-19

terrifictimbersllc

I faced the same quandary with my bandsaw blade setter.  I can use my Milwaukee 28V cordless drill to turn it, but it requires concentration to get the right speed and not be hit by the handle (which I suppose I can take off but didn't want to).  And then there's the question how long will my drill last doing this.  I suppose I could also worry about my arm. 
DJ Hoover, Terrific Timbers LLC,  Mystic CT Woodmizer Million Board Foot Club member. 2019 LT70 Super Wide 55 Yanmar,  LogRite fetching arch, WM BMS250 sharpener/BMT250 setter.  2001 F350 7.3L PSD 6 spd manual ZF 4x4 Crew Cab Long Bed

sigidi

You gotta remember to remove the nylock and add a second nut, use a 12 point socket so it spreads the load over both nuts. Dudley said they found leaving the nylock left  on alone stripped the threads.

I used to have a cordless with a two stage gearbox, low torque-hi speed and high torque-low speed (used it for driving in batten screws) it would eat this easy, but some mongrel stole it.

As for making sure you miss the handle, add an extension bar...
Always willing to help - Allan

JohnM

Quote from: nomad on February 18, 2015, 05:57:20 PM
Quote from: logboy on February 18, 2015, 02:37:41 PM
I'm going to try it, but a couple things worry me. If I use a cordless drill, its going to burn out the motor, clutch, or both. If I use a cordless impact, which is designed for high torque applications, then the constant impact action will eventually strip out the internal components on the cranks. I big, 1/2" electric drill would probably work, but thats only good if youre working next to an outlet. I would love a 12v setup that runs off a battery.
I'm going to try it too, but I agree with you about the cordless impact.  I think the hammering action would be a bad idea.  It would also be extremely fast!  I bet the cordless drill on low speed will work just fine though.
Was thinking the same thing about the impact driver and I've been wanting a 'standard' drill driver for a while anyway http://www.makitatools.com/en-us/Modules/Tools/ToolDetails.aspx?Name=XFD03Z  ;D  Two birds and all that.  Course I can't even see the rails of my Lucas atm under all this snow.  With a dwindling firewood pile and maple syrup season coming right up (I think!? ::)) the drill and Lucas will have to wait.  Thanks for the idea, Sig!
Lucas 830 w/ slabber; Kubota L3710; Wallenstein logging winch; Split-fire splitter; Stihl 036; Jonsered 2150

CaseyK

Logboy asked me to comment on this thread.

I am building a twin blade saw utilizing 1"acme rods for the raise and lower and 5/8"amce rods for the left / right positioning of the saw axis, the motor and saw carriage to be moved left and right weighs around 900lbs and then the frame that it rest on that goes up and down weighs an additional 2-300lbs.
After digging thru a lot of forumn post and internet post I decided to go with wheelchair motors as my power source, they are cheap on ebay and already have a right angle gear box reducer that drops the rpm down typically  to around 130 rpm and they have built in 24v brakes that will hold the load. Note: if you can find a local wheelchair repair shop you can ask them about which motors have American size shafts, most have 17mm with a 6mm keyway that can not easily be converted to a SAE size. I had to have my adapters made at a machine shop.
I tried using cheap 24v PWM controllers from china but they weren't up for the task so now I have ordered the following:
Speed Control DC Motor 32 Amp Minarik XP32-12/24DC with manual off of ebay, they cost around $80-100 delivered, ordered a minark heat sink $30 off ebay.
If you didn't want the extra cost then of the controller then you could just wire the wheelchair motor up using 2 relays, AB 700 relays off ebay run around 10 dollars each, let one relay do the start stop and the other relay be wired in as a Hbridge to swap the polarity going to the wheelchair motor and change direction. When running without speed control you would have to change the gearing down slow enough to be able to accurately position carriage or lift.
By using the speed controller you have lots of additional functionality such as accel / decal ramps, ir comp to adjust for load fluctuations, and torque limit.
I am presently offshore but have got all my parts ordered and they should be home waiting for me March 5th.
My application is non typical because I will have a AB clx plc with motion control cards controlling the saw axis's with encoder feedback. I will post videos as soon as im up and running.
Home built automated twin blade

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