Swingmill Questions/Comments from Newbie

[Hokiemill]

Let me start by saying that I've been reading and lurking for more than a year.  Now that I own a mill and have cut my first boards, I figured it was time to join the conversation.  I've always wanted an 8" Peterson ATS, but the money wasn't there.  Several weeks ago I was able to get a 1998 Lucas 6", 16hp, electric start, very few hours, and four blades for $3900.  Wrong size of cut, wrong size of motor, wrong brand, but right price to get my feet wet.  Two weekends ago me and my dad cut about 400 bf of mostly oak that he had as a result of hurricane Isabel.  Great fun, but as a result I have some general comments and questions.

I had some occasional diving/rising blade issues.  I read through the recent posts on blade diving.  My problems would sometimes be blade diving and sometimes blade rising.  Most of the time I could reduce the depth/width of cut and slowly work past the binding.  I sharpened the blade and made sure I wasn't sharpening at an angle.  I probably should've tried another blade but didn't.  Any thoughts beyond what was discussed in the previous thread?

The lockdown of side to side movement of the sawhead is pretty bad.  I've made a thousand adjustments to get the lockdown where it won't add any friction during movement, but should fully lock when engaged, but it still doesn't hold the sawhead in position very well.  Has anyone made a retrofit lockdown device?

The Lucas manual side to side adjustment doesn't appear to be as user friendly as the Peterson crank and chain (just an observation).

The water drip valve is almost impossible to turn because it is too small and too close to the tank.  I need to re-engineer it.  Any experience with an easy way to tap a new line into the plastic water tank in place of the existing?

Loading the sawhead up ramps isn't always an easy task, especially for a little guy like me (160 lbs).  Again, the Peterson method looks better engineered.  Anyone have any clever (and cheap) solutions?

KiwiJake, I plan on attending the logging show in Richmond (my Dad lives just outside of Richmond and I grew up there).  What will be there to see from you guys?  ATS?  Will you have any of those kickable log dogs there to sell?

Now I just need to find the money for a trailer, a winch, and a DH kiln.

Sorry for the length and thanks for any input.

[BW_Williams]

First off Hokie welcome, and I think you didn't get hurt with your mill.  For the blade diving, I would try another blade, preferable a new one or one that's been rebuilt well, look at the side relief of the teeth, you would be able to see any problems.  Was your blade getting hot, if so increase water feed.  I have had to clean the back friction pad of the sawhead a couple times when it gets gummed up, for fine adjustments I roll the nylon wheel with my right hand and that works pretty good.  The sawhead movement sounds odd for a low hour mill, I would call Bailey's and talk to Doug.  At the OLC I talked to a couple fellers from Coos Bay that had over 1600 hours on 2 827s!  On your water valve, mine has a short hose before the valve.  Loading the carriage onto a low trailer works much better than a pickup, (and I'm not 160# :D).  Good luck and keep us posted,  BWW

[Captain]

Welcome (as I missed you before) Hokiemill and weare glad to have you on the Swingblade branch of the dimension sawyer family tree here on Forestry Forum.

Lucas Mill Blades do historically have a little trouble with handling tension and stress in the 8" size mills.  I have personally seen them dance in knotty pine when advanced too quickly.  Having said that, the 6" blades are historically more stable, and to hear of your troubles is a bit suprising.  My questions would lead to a systematic approach to your problem....like BWWilliams suggested, does it do it with all of your blades??  Is it predictable, as in always when in full cut, always when presented with knots, always in hardwood or more random in nature?  The fact that your horizontal sizing lock is not positive is also disturbing.  Your symptoms may be the result of a tension loss in your blade, from overheating or repetitive cuts when the mill is out of adjustment.  Can you post pictures of the sawing pattern left on the lumber?

For plastic taps for your water jug, check Gempler's.com.

Although my experience is with Peterson Sawmills, if you want to pack you mill to Richmond and setup for a few cuts, i would be happy to look at it when in town for the show in June.  As for you answer as to what Peterson products will be available for viewing in Richmond, I will have a 8" WPF and the 10" Automated Swingblade.  Be sure to stop in and say hello!!

Captain

[Kedwards]

I have a 618 and have only experienced the blade movement you speak of when the material is really knotty like in White Oak or if the tension of the blade is off. Also make sure that you are getting plenty of fluid in the cutting as well as your log aint movin' and the mill frame doesn't move. Those can also cause the powerhead to move when it rolls from end to end. Other than that I would try another blade. For loading the power head I use a trailer instead of trying to put in the flatbed. That way I can haul off more wood  :D Look on the forum for the pipe clamp dogs for the lucas mill.. made me a set and they work excellent and are a lot cheaper than brand X. You might give the guys at Baileys a call as well  as they are very helpful on issue regarding the mill.