what are the best ones
For wood I like the brad point bits. Idk what brand...I buy the cheep ones and re buy again.
The ones that are sharp and not broken. Cobalts stay sharp longer, but are more easily broken.
The kids gave me one of those Drill Doctors but it's kinda like resharpening blades. I would rather be doing something else.
When I am in a Black & Decker store, I always stock up.
Not sure on wood bits, but for steel, there is a brand I used for years, "Precision" whether coated or not, they are good ones, as to the best, not sure,
i am a believer in buying the big packages that have 100 bits in various sizes at the big box store. i think i break them or loose them long before i worry about them dulling...
i don't think i've ever had drill bits last long enough for me to worry about which brand is best.
When I worked in a machine shop all we used were Vermont American but that was 40 years ago, now it is probably Vermont Chinese.
i am not really a dewalt fan but santa brought a set of the good dewalt bits. they work real well in steel
I have had good luck with Milwaukee and Walter. Some of the best ones I've had I bought at a tool discount store in 1985, they just say "made in Italy" on them.
Local Ace stocks Irwins that work well. I think they are the black and gold series? They are gold on the business end. They also stock fractional, number, and letter bits which is nice.
Here's one for you if you want to mess with someone at an autoparts or box store. If you buy an easyout it says to use a lefthand drill bit. Another words it drills in reverse. Pickout an easyout and try and get a bit for it. You will leave them scratching their head.
Irwin makes a decent wood bit or at least used to .
Metal bits in my little life I couldn't really say .I have them by the thousands from fractional size to 2.5" all or most from auctions .Cheap!
sorry metal bits is what I am looking for I had I guy drill some holes in 11/4 thick metal and the bits were funny looking with some sort of a point on them and they made some big shavings I asked what kind of bits they were and he would not tell me :-\ >:( I have looked for them and cant find any like his
Dewalt
Google " Dewalt fractional, pilot-point, jobber-length drill bits" for them. May be other brands too.
@ grainger
http://www.grainger.com/category/pilot-point-drill-bits/drilling-accessories/power-tools/ecatalog/N-ak2
There is a learning curve on that drill doctor as well.If you don't get enough relief on the back side of the bit it won't cut after you sharpen it.One more tip,if you are drilling stainless go slow.
Quote from: coxy on November 01, 2014, 06:31:16 AM
sorry metal bits is what I am looking for I had I guy drill some holes in 11/4 thick metal and the bits were funny looking with some sort of a point on them and they made some big shavings I asked what kind of bits they were and he would not tell me :-\ >:( I have looked for them and cant find any like his
Since I have owned a machine for many years I have a little experience in this area. I don't have a specific brand but I buy high quality HSS (high speed steel) American made drill bits. MSC is a big supplier of quality bits and machine shop tooling. Stay a way from High Carbon. too brittle. I have used Solid Carbide but they are expensive and there again stay away from imports. On big bits you need to have the piece clamped good and drill slow speed and use coolant. Best to do in a milling machine. I will try and remember to look at the bits we have and get some brand names for you. On a 1 1/4 drill bit you could expect to pay 50-100 bucks for a good drill bit. If you put these in a 1/2 in chuck you might have problems with it slipping. I use holders that have a set screw to keep them from spinning. Of course not everyone has a mill setting around . I have never tried that big of a drill bit on a drill press. Not that it can't be done the mill is just easier. You get what you pay for in drill bits and end mills. I buy the best. The funny looking drill bit may have been one that uses a carbide insert.
I've made a few things that involved up to one inch holes in half inch steel. The best bits have Cobalt in them and not a 'coating' . Worth paying the extra money for. ( one of my bits cost $46 !! )
The Vermont Amer. are still pretty good. Love the dual/stepped point ones.
Going slow is good advice. Slower than you think you need.
depending on how thick the metal, and how many holes you need to drill, I've had good luck with "uni-bits", also called step drills.
I also like the dewalts that have the pilot point, I haven't tried to sharpen one of them, but they cut well.
Also, an air drill works really well when drilling metal (they tend to stall rather than break your wrist when the bit grabs when breaking through the back side), but my preference is a drill press with a good vise. I actually have a cross vise on my drill press, but a mill would be better.
Did it look anything like this?
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30352/rotabroach.jpg)
If you are going to drill a relitively large diameter hole you're probabley better off to "step drill " it .Meaning using a small bit for the first pass followed by a series of larger diameter .
Sharpening a drill bit is a learning curve just like sharpening a chainsaw chain .Not everybody gets the hang of it so to speak .
A milling machine with an end mill is a good method just not everybody has a Bridgeport laying around . I do plus a 5 HP radial with a number 5 MT spindle and an XY table stationary with a number 4 MT also 5 HP .
Here's another thing .If you ae going to bore a hole don't pussy foot with it .Keep the drill bit in the metal pulling a chip .Playing around with it only dulls the bit and over heats the metal .The chip carries the heat away from the tool .
Quote from: Al_Smith on November 01, 2014, 10:19:49 PM
If you are going to drill a relitively large diameter hole you're probabley better off to "step drill " it .Meaning using a small bit for the first pass followed by a series of larger diameter .
Sharpening a drill bit is a learning curve just like sharpening a chainsaw chain .Not everybody gets the hang of it so to speak .
A milling machine with an end mill is a good method just not everybody has a Bridgeport laying around . I do plus a 5 HP radial with a number 5 MT spindle and an XY table stationary with a number 4 MT also 5 HP .
A nice Radial drill. Sweet. What brand is it?
Quote from: North River Energy on November 01, 2014, 02:54:18 PM
Did it look anything like this?
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30352/rotabroach.jpg)
ya some thing like that had the point and also looked like it had hole saw teeth but not as fine think I said it right ;D
IT could be a Hougen Rotabroach® Annular Cutters, Look it up.
Coxy,
http://www.gjhalltools.com/tool/titanium-coated-annular-cutters (http://www.gjhalltools.com/tool/titanium-coated-annular-cutters)
Retractable pilot pin, 3/4" straight shank with set screw flat. You can drive these with some mag drills, and of course a milling machine with proper collet. The bees knees for making big holes in plate stock.
Al, got any pictures of the radial drill-monster?
It's not really a monster so to speak for a radial drill .American Hole Wizard 36" arm .I'm surprised it has a #5 MT instead of a # 4 .Where the big spindle came from I have no idea .It's a heavy duty Judy for sure .
Now pictures are another story .Sometimes I can load them sometimes not .Why the trouble I have no idea . .My patience level is limited to three attempts .No dice this time ,sorry .
Quote from: elk42 on November 02, 2014, 11:51:26 AM
IT could be a Hougen Rotabroach® Annular Cutters, Look it up.
That was my thought as well.
For smaller holes, I prefer to purchase machinist grade bits. For years I bought Butterfield (and they are great bits), then I moved to Magnum bits mfg by Norseman here in the US. These bits will drill both spring steel as well as many grades of stainless steel.
A Darex Drill Doctor is a great tool for most folks to keep the bits sharp.
I have a Hougen Rotabroach magnetic drill, and it is a great tool for drilling larger holes or drilling holes through thick metal.
One thing to keep in mind is bit speed. Basically the larger the diameter of bit, the slower you want to turn it in order to keep from burning the tip.
--conversely the opposite is true if drilling wires sized holes like with a #27 bit .Going too slow is a sure way to break a bit .
Holes are holes .For those not so well equipted as some of us a hole saw could be an option.They come in just about every size and are easy to use with just a hand held drill motor .Use plenty of oil .
north river energy thanks for the link going to give them a call thanks every one for the help :)
Step drilling is a sure way to break the corners off a drill.Friend borrowed my 5/8 bit and broke the end off trying to open up a 1/2 inch hole in a trailer hitch.The drill caught and broke the drill about 3/4 from the point.I found a reference to step drilling in a 1940s manual.A writer copied the info word for word in a metal working book later on.You will break drills step drilling.Big drills need a small starter hole to get the cutting edge of the big drill started.Ive been sharpening and using drills since the early 50s.I will not do step drilling.Friend replaced the drill bit,If I had known he was going to step drill a 1/2 inch hole with a 5/8 bit I would not have loaned him the drill bit.The corners of the cutting edge dug in and snapped the bit.
Perhaps your buddy was a clutz .Just as general information the standard method of drilling holes in cast iron engine blocks was a three drill process followed by a finish bore reamer and a tapped hole Must have worked because it's still done that way .
I'd also speculate your bud was using a half inch hand held drill motor and a turned shank bit .More than likely went off kelter drilling the hole .With a drill press,mag drill or milling machine that doesn't happen unless you forget to clamp down the work piece .T'aint what you do 'tis how it's done ;)
Coxy,
That link is for the bit in the photo. Fairly certain I purchased that from Travers Tool co. a number of years back, but they (and MSC Industrial) now carry the Hougen product line.
More or less the same thing, give or take a few dollars. They don't give those away, but the savings in time and hassle are totally worth it if you have the need for the holes and a means to drive the cutter.
Al, thanks for trying on the photos. I was ' conducting a job interview' with a large Cincinnati-Gilbert Saturday morning, and your mention of 'radial drill' and '5 MT' simply added heat to the case of iron fever.
Step drilling per se isn't the problem, it's how the cutting edge is loaded that leads to breakage/dulling.
Well you can regrind the outer edge of the drill flukes to alleviate the possibilties of breaking them .
I just didn't want to get carried away too much in the conversation .There's a trick to everything ya know . ;)
As far as a big radial they aren't that hard to find .Fact the one I have was given to me by a buddy .He only had 240 three phase and this one uses a straight wired 480 volt .Not a problem for me .If I had enough transformers ,a good set of diodes and a big enough capacitor I could build a bolt of lightning . ;D
Keep in mind old Ron is a junk yard dawg like myself .I gave him a Vickers hydraulic unit ,60 gallon tank,7.5 HP to run his 200 ton press .We kind of help each other out from time to time .Junk yard dawgs you know run in packs ,it's an undeclared fraternal brother hood .
As someone else mentioned the annular cutter bits are very good for use in a magnetic drill. I don't know what the best brand is but we generally use FMT production and they work well if you keep them well lubricated. They are pretty salty though. I bought 6 - 1 5/8" diameter x 2" length bits for $1,125.44. Did I mention not to forget to lubricate liberally?
I have a few solid carbide drill bits and they work great! You have to run them really slow breaking through the back side of the hole or they will shatter. They cut great for a loooong time if you're careful with them.
I think Milwaukee calls them a "slugger bit " .Pricey but the cats meow on a mag drill .
Actually a mag drill in itself is the cats meow .Without it I cannot imagine drilling 3/4"-13/16" holes in structural steel by swinging around an I beam into a radial or stationary drill press on the end of a chain fall.You darn sure aren't going to do it with a 1/2" drill motor and turned shank bits .
Since it's been mentioned I also have a bunch of solid carbide bits .They all came from the scrap tubs at work .Once they get too short for the CNC machines they get discarded .
About the only thing I use them for is drilling chainsaw bars and drilling out grade 8 bolts .A grade 8 is so hard a standard high speed steel bit won't even touch them .If it does it only makes to bolt get harder from the heat .